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chelle

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Everything posted by chelle

  1. Might want to be careful with that kind of invitation and this group...
  2. I haven't lead above the anchor your arrow points to, but watched my partner straighten out my cam hook in a fall while trying to get to the anchors above so we could do the roof. He eventually got it with some creative aid climbing using another cam hook and small nuts. Like Dberdinka said, the roof is cool, but above that it is really dirty. After my partner led through the roof, we ended up bailing over to the right to some anchors after he took a couple falls on crappy placements. The climbing was over a lot of loose dirty stuff I'm glad he didn't pull off when I was hanging below....
  3. Nice TR Fern. I'm goping to make it up that way in April, towards the end of the month. We need to work on our project.
  4. Let's not let this discussion devolve, guys. It's sad that a 30 year old who thought he was in good shape had a sudden heart attack and died.
  5. Based on the article in the NYTimes when the movie came out, I believe that the majority of the climbing footage was filmed in the Alps somewhere and that a small portion of it was done in the Siula Grande area when the film crew and Simpson and Yates went back in.
  6. Kinda depends on how far south in No Cal you plan to go. That time of year the cragging in Yosemite is pretty darn good.
  7. Hope they clear out on Sunday as planned and leave the rocks in peace and quiet for me.
  8. Did they break into the house or the car? That totally sucks. I have an extra harness that'll probably fit you so we can still climb at the gym tomorrow night.
  9. Check out Rescue Associates in Leavenworth. I went through them for my WFR and thought they were very good.
  10. Hhmm. I thought her avatar looked like a tiny sheep balancing a washing machine on it's head and manually agitating it with a little dancing. Very weird...but who cares.
  11. chelle

    hey chompers

    no buttons pushed there superhero. I was honestly curious why this was funny to Lummox. She's always looked goofy and this was probably the least goofy photo of her. Maybe that's what was funny.
  12. Woodstock!
  13. chelle

    hey chompers

    Curious...what made it funny Lummox? She looks better in that photo than she ever has. Living in NYC and making 6 figures working as a management consultant must be working out for her.
  14. chelle

    trad gear

    I used to have a rock empire cam that I bought because it was only $29.99 and the Camalot was so much more money. I hated that thing from the beginning and was very happy when it finally got stuck and I couldn't get it out. The trigger wires are so short that it is really easy to overcam it and they also walk really easily. Don't waste your money on getting the cheapest gear. Buy more nuts or some hexes if you can't afford to get a full rack of cams, especially for sizes that are "bomber" hand placements like #1-#3 camalots. Generally you can get a good hand placement and spend an extra minute wiggling in a large nut or hex. Unless you're going to start aid climbing and need to build a huge rack fast, you'll be fine getting started with one set of cams, nuts, and maybe a few hexes. You're climbing partner will likely have a set of cams that can allow you to take doubles of desired pieces on climbs where you will need them. My rack is one set of camalots (.75-#4) with Aliens for the sizes under .75, and one set of metolious cams (00-8), BD nuts #2-#13 and a few wired metolious hexes (double for camalot sizes .5-#2) which I have found to be very valuable at times lightweight and very trusty in constrictons. I didn't go out and buy this at one time. I've built it over the past 5 years of climbing. My first purcahse was 2 metolious cams, a set of nuts and a set of wired hexes. It was all I could afford at the time.
  15. Hey Dave, is there a swap with this expo? I have a friend looking for a good deal on a bike.
  16. More organized events would be great, but I think we only need maybe one slide show a quarter. Attendance at Pub Club's does come and go in waves. Sometimes we have 20 people each week for a month, then only a handful of 5-6 regulars. Nothing really wrong with that. We were regularly having good attendance last year when we decided the venue for the next week before everyone left and then announcing it rather than having a big debate online. It's a waste of time to have to monitor and sift through a couple pages of posts to figure out where to show up, or wonder if the place got changed at the last minute... Maybe we should go back to that and see if it helps people plan. Unless there's some reason that people don't feel comfortable coming that is behind the low attendance this week, I don't think we need to change much. Dustin, you should show up and have a beer. Fairweather came to one down in T-town a few months back and had a good time.
  17. Not off topic Dalius. Climbing questions are quite ON topic here. Anyways, since you are not in the US it might be hard to get your hands directly on AAJ copies. You might be able to get some info from their library or librarians. Here's a link for you. AAJ library Take some photos for all of us stuck here at home.
  18. I can't believe you guys still try this troll. It's so obvious by now...pathetic.
  19. Welcome back Steve. We haven't seen you around these parts in a while.
  20. Thanks. The files were in the "documents & settings" folder and I thought it said temporary internet files. The scan completed after an hour and the system got a clean bill of health. I still don't think I need that many temp files clogging up my hard drive... I have XP so I can't "see" anything in the system folder.
  21. So glad you have time to google Dru. I stand corrected.
  22. Josh. You flirt with danger and sometimes it bites you on the ass. There's no winning that debate because when it happens you'll say "See, I told you..." and until then "Wait and see, it'll happen." I'm pretty sure he's the guy who snowboarded the cable route on half dome and stuck it without going over the edge. That at a minimum deserves some respect, not your spray flicking attitude.
  23. If I told Explorer to "delete temporary files" yesterday...how can I still have over 30K files that my virus scan software is trying to sort through? Scanning my computer is taking f'ing forever!
  24. Here's a portion of an article on the issue in the current Economist. Leaders: Just the facts; The WMD inquiries; London: Feb 7, 2004. pg. 13 "The inquiries can, however, get to the bottom of what British and American spies and politicians knew (or thought they knew) about Iraq's WMD and terrorist connections. David Kay, the ex-weapons inspector who forced a probe on Mr Bush, who in turn thrust one upon Mr Blair, told Congress that Iraq was indeed a danger. The spies may yet turn out to have done a better job in 2003 than in 1991, when they underestimated Mr Hussein's nuclear progress. But given the apparent absence of any actual WMD in Iraq, the new panels must ascertain where the CIA, MI6 and other agencies went wrong. Did they invest too little in on-the-ground agents--a conclusion reached in a different context by a congressional inquiry into September 11th? After the UN inspectors left Iraq, did they wrongly extrapolate from old information? Were they over-reliant on defectors, exiles and inconclusive satellite images? Did senior officials gloss over uncertainty, or quail in the face of demanding politicians? As for those politicians: when they dragged intelligence into the light, did they exaggerate, whether by omission of caveats and provisos or otherwise? We think they did--and that Vice-President Dick Cheney has, reprehensibly, continued to do so until very recently. But only up to a point: even the dissident voices within intelligence circles say only that the two governments firmed-up analysts' conclusions, not that they made them up altogether. In particular, did Mr Bush's team allege a link between Iraq and al-Qaeda that the data didn't substantiate? Did they lean on the spies to come up with the "right" answers? Some say they did; others, including Mr Kay, say they didn't. If he is right, why did some American assessments of the Iraqi threat become gloomier, even, as it now appears, as the sources for those assessments became weaker? These are the questions that can and should be answered. That will require the Bush administration to co-operate more fulsomely with the new panel than with the one investigating September 11th."
  25. I've rapped on a 5.5mm spectra cord before. Just use an extra biner like RBW suggested. I did the redirect and it worked fine. You can also use it to do full single raps if you use the method that's been discussed on this site before to rig the ropes. It's a lightweight second rope for raping if you need one. (expensive but lightweight)
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