chelle

Any chance you can give us the highlights of the main concerns?

I'll have to check it out next time I'm out there. I'm not sure we're talking about the same cracks. Who knows though. Maybe when you're blowing through it free climbing it feels totally different than when you're hanging out with a bunch of gear standing in aiders. It's been about 14 months since I was on it. I recall one pin that generally has webbing on it about 20' off the deck, up from the flake at the base. When I've aided the route I've gone out right from that pin over to the 1st anchors on Sagitarius. Then back out left to a crack that starts about 6' above the first fixed pin and haven't found the pro in that crack to be hand to fingers. 'Cause that wouldn't have sketched me out. I recall small nut placements that weren't that great and a couple cam hook moves. The crack goes up to a left facing corner that eventually brings you up to the left of the ringing flake anchors. The pin I was saying should not have been pulled is at the start of the left facing corner (which may be your v-slot). If the pin isn't there and the pro below it pulls out to either the Sagitarius anchors or to the first fixed pin, you are risking a ground fall. I need to get back out and do some aid climbing. Anyone willing to show me the ropes (system) for solo aiding? I've been hesitant to get out there and try to figure it out on my own.

lummox - Yes, apples are cheaper than burgers but an apple does not make a meal. Cost out a healthy balanced meal at the grocery store, you can't beat the dollar menu unless you're eating ramen - which is disqualified by the previous statement. Also I believe the argument was comparing eating out. To go to a restaurant and eat a healthy meal is more expensive than to go grab burgers and fried whatever off the dollar menu at any fast food chain. Especially for a family of four.

If you read the article the spokesperson from McD's said they sell nutritious food. I think he/she was implying they believe it is healthy, because making a statement like that about McD's menu is a pretty big stretch of the definition for nutritious. Sorta related. Back in Dec. ABC (Peter Jennings) did a special on the American diet and how the government subsidies to agriculture have set up a food system that encourages obesity. We grow so much corn we have to use it somehow...corn syrup in just about everything, corn fed to beef to fatten them up. Fast food is cheap; healthy food expensive. Anybody see it?

Veggie - my comment about being off base is related to his views on why people have been banned or have been asked to tone down the aggressiveness/personal attacks. I guess my primary question for Fairweather, Sisu, and the others who are so vocal in complaining these days is: What is it that you get out of participating in cc.com? If the answer is having a place where they can anonymously view (and/or participate in) the bullying of other posters, generally make your avatar a pain in the ass by trolling just for shock value, read endless strings of insults and put downs, and look at Trask's pron... Then by all means Contrary to the vocal minority's belief, last time I checked that is not the purpose of this site or even of spray.

No. People have not been banned for posting their political views. It's too bad IMO that people with diverging views (like Fairweather) believe that they don't have a place here anymore. Many of the people who are "walking" out the door have some pretty skewed views of why people have been banned or asked to tone it down. It has been explained to death in other threads, so I guess there is no hope of getting them to understand. Maybe things have changed a bit in the last few months...change is part of life. Get over it. I do not believe that cc.com is becoming some liberal/socialist Seattle climber's virtual playground. Fairweather, Sisu, et al. Your views are just a little off base.

The only comments I have seen Bush make about jobs going to foreigners was about illegal immigrants who are domsetic help and agriculture workers. He wants to make their presence here legal since no one in the US really wants many of those jobs. I have not read or heard anything about how Bush is planning to keep the good paying blue and white collar jobs that are going over seas here at home. Minx and Roark - I'm curious what makes you think that you will end up with a smaller bottom line if the rich (individuals and corporations) pay their fair share of taxes.

Trask is free...to spray all over any other site on the web. You dependent people should just start a group ICQ with him.

The NYT put the Eiger Sanction out there as a movie where the climbers climbed and thought it was pretty authentic, and put the Simpson movie in the same league. Touching the Void set a new standard for climbing movies IMO. CBS is completely right that the actors hired to do the reinactments did look like climbers and the film did the whole story justice. And that idiot from the Stranger should never have been allowed to review the film. If you haven't seen it yet, get out there and check it out. In the Eiger there were so many continuity problems with someone being on lead, then toprope, then jugging up a line while being belayed. I know a lot of you think the Eiger Sanction was a work of genius... Personally I thought it blew other than as a spoof on both climbing and spy movies.

bbc news on pbs when I'm around to watch it. NYT daily. You can register for a free daily email. The Economist, I like their coverage of world stuff and business. Used to love the WSJ, but I don't get it for free anymore...

Get sick...but make sure you don't epic or get your mug on TV. A friend of mine called in "sick" to go on a trip many years ago. It ended up snowing about 8 inches that July in the Sierra and the guy was dumb enough to allow himself to be interviewed by the local news team at the trailhead. When the boss saw the coverage... This weekend, I'm going to see the Simpson movie, visit a friend, study, and climb in the gym. I love nursing school, but it is seriously cutting into my play time. Have fun out there everybody. I'm living vicariously through you for the next few months.

Damn. I almost stayed up to watch letterman, but actually felt like I could fall asleep before midnight. I wish I'd known he was on.

Someone once told me that they have seen someone pull their small nuts in the thin seam above the first fixed pin and below the next fixed pin on the first pitch of Iron Horse. This would mean high probability for a ground fall. If that 2nd pin is now gone, I think it could make for a pretty scary aid climb. I remember being pretty happy when I clipped that second pin last year. Is this the same pin below the ringing flake that you guys are talking about? That first pitch 5.9 pitch of Narrow Arrow is fun to lead on aid, especially the traverse from the two bolts on the slab when you're a shorty like me. The only mandatory free climbing on it is to get to the first ledge about 12 feet off the deck which was really interesting when it was all slimy. maybe you could use hooks on the little ledges, but it only felt like a v1 boulder problem with boots on. Probably one of the funnest pitches I did last year.

I think you're right and it is a short engagement when it is shown. I think in Seattle it is only playing on Friday.

Glad you're enjoying the place, Dryad. Matt, last time I was there a liter of beer was between 2 and 3 bucks and definately the most expensive thing on the menu. A plate of pad thai was only about $1.20 so the beer price didn't matter so much.

I thought the primary topic of the Beckoning Silence was his climb up the Eiger. Since Touching the Void, he always incorporates his addiction to climbing and the friends he's lost. He's had some interesting points about how high altitude ethics have/are changed/ing (e.g., people only helping others from their own team and stepping over dying people so they could tag a summit.)

You guys down there are pretty trusting with your party locations. Make sure to let us know if the general public stops by for a sampling of TG brew. Have fun. Wish I could make a trek south but it's a school night.

The homeopathic remedy Zicam has worked for me when I've just had a cold virus. It's just a zinc gel. This last one was more than a virus...

Tried that too. Hope it works for you.

No worries. Your brains are just leaking out through your nose. Seriously though, it traps and gets rid of the bad stuff you breathe in and tries to prevent infection. But sometimes that doesn't work and you end up with gobs and gobs of some pretty grose stuff. If it seems different than other colds you've had or you start running a fever, call your doctor. There's some nasty bugs out there. My cold a couple weeks ago turned into walking pneumonia. Which totally sucks.

Right on, Minx

Cloud Cult , song State of the Union off the Aurora Borealis CD. Funny editing of GW's own words and makes a pretty bold statement about our leader's agenda. Heard it a couple times on KEXP , you can listen to it in their archives from yesterday, played at 5:36 pm.

Have you guys/gals tried using a moisture barrier to see if that helps? Get a plastic bag and put it over your liner sock then put your other sock on top of it.

my weekend will be a some playing, some gym monkeying, and much studying.

I might be able to make it. I'll check in for the final location later.