genepires

If you are asking about snowshoes, I would agree that they are not needed due to the fact there should be some traffic before you. Doesn't take too long for a decent trail to be made. But if there has been fresh snowfall, they might be very helpfull. Might be a good idea to take them in the car and make the call at paradise. If your question is about boots, plastic or leather, well I would say plastic for that month. crampons? always. enjoy up there!

When the knots become an issue, it is time to use those rescue coils and drop another line down to prussik or haul with. This new line should be on a mega prepared lip. No overhang or rope cutting in. padding too.

Just finished a book (post cards from the trailerpark) written by Cam Burns. Good stuff and worthy of a read. Very funny. Less about hard core climbing and more about making fun of himself and meeting cool people. Lots of off beat articles like spray painting gear and such. If you are a sno-isle library card holder (snohomish and some island counties), you can get the book with that library system. On a side note, I requested the library get this book and they did. This library system works! If you feel your library system lacks good climbing books, request a few. (for example, Monroe library has a AK climbing guide and a sky valley rock guidebook)

bump.

I found a rei left mitten. don't know the name but it is the warmest one they make. with somekind of primaloft insulation, size large. If you need one, let me know.

Koflach arctis has been a good boot for me on denali. (with super gaiters below 14K and overboots above 14k) Like most warm liners, they can only take a limited number of expeditions. So using them for general beating around in warmer times is not recomended, as well as too warm. Arctis don't have the thermoform/intuition type liners, last I looked. But you mention higher peaks than denali. For something higher, you should really look at boots like millet (everest or something like that). Scarpa and la sportiva have similar models. They are pricey they are much wamer and ends up only costing $80/toe. Plus in the grand scheme of cost for these peaks, it is trivial.

mammut is a good beacon as are most modern beacons. But the best piece of gear for avi protection is to not get caught in one. I know this obvious, but looking at getting caught in an avalanche on any mountain that contains rock cliffs, crevasses, ice cliffs and such will probably result in death due to trauma. So don't let the knowledge of a beacon on your person give you a sense of security, because it shouldn't. Just my little speel, 2 cents. ect.

Good job sticking to it Justin! Sucks that you had to go through all that crap. Maybe you should send this post as a message to corporate rei as a comment on the mangement at that store. (bellingham right?) Hopefully that kind of bad management doesn't exist in all stores. Glad to see you are back.

there will be snow on the ridge. it will be deep. snow will fall off the willis wall. you will need to cross snow covered glaciers. it may snow on you. and honestly, it should be like normal conditions which is pretty good in may. Wouldn' bet on it in june though.

wind rivers would probably be too cold in october but would be doable in early (very early) september. Might still get snow even then too. Bugaboos in september, be ready for snow. It probably will snow on ya. The longer you wait into the fall, the more important it is to travel south and west. So for a cheaper trip, I would reccomend that you just travel straight to where the conditions would be good like start here in the cascades and then go to the sierras or just stay down there. so many options. lovers leap near tahoe and joshua tree would be great if it seems too cold in the alpine. (which is likely in mid october)

congrats Mike and Marcus! Brought your boots this time? Great job!

wild things windshirt

BLACK DIAMOND COBRA ICE TOOLS FOR SALE email me if interested (genepires@hotmail.com) or phone (360-805-1024) Both tools are in pretty good shape. I’ve got too many sets of tools and these are just setting idle. Only done water ice with them so they are in good shape. I am selling the tools as a pair. 2 Black Diamond Cobras (one hammer and one adze) They retail $269.95 ea and therefore retail for $540 for pair. BUY THE SET FOR $320 http://www.bdel.com/gear/cobra.php 2 Spare Picks: NEW These retail for $34.95 each I would sell them for $25 each or $40 for the pair. Not sure of the exact name but they are the reverse curve waterfall ice climbing type. They are about 4 years old.

Bucking the common thought, I like lightweight fleece pullovers, like 100 weight stuff. LIght enough to breathe somewhat but still has insulation qualities when under a windshirt or jacket. usually damn cheap and takes a beating too. (like thrashing in the prickly branches in red rocks) Versatile and cheap is good.

I got a cassin lightweight axe something like 7 years ago and I really like it. It had a metal head. Forgot the name but i got it at marmot in bellevue. Can't speak for current models. What was wrong with the BD models? And the grivel models had some rust? That doesn't mean it is a bad tool as it doesn't affect the strength or life of the tool. Only superficial. I got the pamir which is a very cool tool which did very well in alpine ice terrain. Also, check out some charlet tools.

replace. surpised it didn't break when you bent it back.

I met a guy who made the fangs work on his cobras. He took a small rat tail file (or something similar) and filled away the inside parts of the fang. There are places on the fang that get caught up on the cobra spike. You need to file away those spots. If you study the fang close enough, it is apparent. With that, I haven't done it so I may be full of whatever. It looked pretty strong. I woudl suggest you buy one fang then try it out.

Yeah I meant "right" but my fingers said "left". Maybe the worlds best ice is over left but now one ever looks! Great route and really "funner" in july and august.

Cams don't seem expensive when you are off the deck and trying to get some nut in a parallel sided crack. Spend the dough and get a full set of nuts, cams (#1 tcu to #2 camalot), and some tricams (pink to brown) and hexes (#7 to #9). After shelling out the cash, it won't seem so bad.

Given the lack of snow in the valley, exposed glacier ice and the beat in trail in the glacier, I would say it is in august. I haven't been on it for 6 years or so but I remember the ice bit being much steeper. More like 70 degrees back then. Looks mellow now. It usually is steeper to the climbers left.

Don't be swayed by others opinions that you will be able to get away with a 3500 cubic inch pack. You won't for your 6 day. It will fill up quick with 6 days of food, 4 season camping gear, clothes to withstand any weather and so on. The 5500 will fill up real quick and still have stuff hanging outside. It is unfortunate that you don't have a store nearby to help cause fit is a very important thing. Some just don't fit. If you have the time, I would call feathered freinds or mountain gear and talk to someone there. Ask if they have a policy to let you return a pack that doesn't fit and you can load it up at home and return if it feels wrong. Problem is it may feel ok at home but not after 10 miles of trail. Also a pack loaded up will feel wrong even of right. Who like 60 lbs? Consider renting your pack from the guide service or other local climbing store. Ask if they will put the rental fee towards a purchase of a new pack from them. good luck.

you definately need to break your foot in.

The real question is a 0 degree bag going to warm enough for mid may at 14K camp with a down jacket on. Comments based on staying at high camp and in may are not answering the question. So, how about you take your bag and go bivy someplace really cold (bring a thermometer) and then compare it to typical conditions on 14k camp in mid june. Don't sleep with your jacket for the "experiment" to allow for colder than typical conditions on denali. That might mean the summit of rainier, which is no easy matter in itself, just a idea. BTW, I don't think I could make it from 14k to the summit. I would not have enough energy reserves left to allow for the unknown, should something happen. I don't like to travel too close to the edge like that. Plus my head would hurt too much. I suggest that you honestly evaluate your strengths and skills. If you got it, then go for it.

By guide reccomendation I assume you mean guide book? or guide service? Alpine climbing in feb is weather and avi dependant. Expect a ski ascent/descent unless you like post holing on avi slopes. I would say stay in the kanaskis on ridges. there is a recent thread on ice reccomendations that you can search for. I think it is in the ice forum.

just my opinion but if you do 14 to the top in a day, you might want to bring your bag with you on summit day. Don't know your strengths but there is a chance you may need to bivy somewhere. (don't expect people at 18k camp to help out) This opinion is if the weather turns on you. But that aside, the 0 should work in june, especially if you have two tent mates. IMO