genepires

wind rivers would probably be too cold in october but would be doable in early (very early) september. Might still get snow even then too. Bugaboos in september, be ready for snow. It probably will snow on ya. The longer you wait into the fall, the more important it is to travel south and west. So for a cheaper trip, I would reccomend that you just travel straight to where the conditions would be good like start here in the cascades and then go to the sierras or just stay down there. so many options. lovers leap near tahoe and joshua tree would be great if it seems too cold in the alpine. (which is likely in mid october)

congrats Mike and Marcus! Brought your boots this time? Great job!

wild things windshirt

BLACK DIAMOND COBRA ICE TOOLS FOR SALE email me if interested (genepires@hotmail.com) or phone (360-805-1024) Both tools are in pretty good shape. I’ve got too many sets of tools and these are just setting idle. Only done water ice with them so they are in good shape. I am selling the tools as a pair. 2 Black Diamond Cobras (one hammer and one adze) They retail $269.95 ea and therefore retail for $540 for pair. BUY THE SET FOR $320 http://www.bdel.com/gear/cobra.php 2 Spare Picks: NEW These retail for $34.95 each I would sell them for $25 each or $40 for the pair. Not sure of the exact name but they are the reverse curve waterfall ice climbing type. They are about 4 years old.

Bucking the common thought, I like lightweight fleece pullovers, like 100 weight stuff. LIght enough to breathe somewhat but still has insulation qualities when under a windshirt or jacket. usually damn cheap and takes a beating too. (like thrashing in the prickly branches in red rocks) Versatile and cheap is good.

I got a cassin lightweight axe something like 7 years ago and I really like it. It had a metal head. Forgot the name but i got it at marmot in bellevue. Can't speak for current models. What was wrong with the BD models? And the grivel models had some rust? That doesn't mean it is a bad tool as it doesn't affect the strength or life of the tool. Only superficial. I got the pamir which is a very cool tool which did very well in alpine ice terrain. Also, check out some charlet tools.

replace. surpised it didn't break when you bent it back.

I met a guy who made the fangs work on his cobras. He took a small rat tail file (or something similar) and filled away the inside parts of the fang. There are places on the fang that get caught up on the cobra spike. You need to file away those spots. If you study the fang close enough, it is apparent. With that, I haven't done it so I may be full of whatever. It looked pretty strong. I woudl suggest you buy one fang then try it out.

Yeah I meant "right" but my fingers said "left". Maybe the worlds best ice is over left but now one ever looks! Great route and really "funner" in july and august.

Cams don't seem expensive when you are off the deck and trying to get some nut in a parallel sided crack. Spend the dough and get a full set of nuts, cams (#1 tcu to #2 camalot), and some tricams (pink to brown) and hexes (#7 to #9). After shelling out the cash, it won't seem so bad.

Given the lack of snow in the valley, exposed glacier ice and the beat in trail in the glacier, I would say it is in august. I haven't been on it for 6 years or so but I remember the ice bit being much steeper. More like 70 degrees back then. Looks mellow now. It usually is steeper to the climbers left.

Don't be swayed by others opinions that you will be able to get away with a 3500 cubic inch pack. You won't for your 6 day. It will fill up quick with 6 days of food, 4 season camping gear, clothes to withstand any weather and so on. The 5500 will fill up real quick and still have stuff hanging outside. It is unfortunate that you don't have a store nearby to help cause fit is a very important thing. Some just don't fit. If you have the time, I would call feathered freinds or mountain gear and talk to someone there. Ask if they have a policy to let you return a pack that doesn't fit and you can load it up at home and return if it feels wrong. Problem is it may feel ok at home but not after 10 miles of trail. Also a pack loaded up will feel wrong even of right. Who like 60 lbs? Consider renting your pack from the guide service or other local climbing store. Ask if they will put the rental fee towards a purchase of a new pack from them. good luck.

you definately need to break your foot in.

The real question is a 0 degree bag going to warm enough for mid may at 14K camp with a down jacket on. Comments based on staying at high camp and in may are not answering the question. So, how about you take your bag and go bivy someplace really cold (bring a thermometer) and then compare it to typical conditions on 14k camp in mid june. Don't sleep with your jacket for the "experiment" to allow for colder than typical conditions on denali. That might mean the summit of rainier, which is no easy matter in itself, just a idea. BTW, I don't think I could make it from 14k to the summit. I would not have enough energy reserves left to allow for the unknown, should something happen. I don't like to travel too close to the edge like that. Plus my head would hurt too much. I suggest that you honestly evaluate your strengths and skills. If you got it, then go for it.

By guide reccomendation I assume you mean guide book? or guide service? Alpine climbing in feb is weather and avi dependant. Expect a ski ascent/descent unless you like post holing on avi slopes. I would say stay in the kanaskis on ridges. there is a recent thread on ice reccomendations that you can search for. I think it is in the ice forum.

just my opinion but if you do 14 to the top in a day, you might want to bring your bag with you on summit day. Don't know your strengths but there is a chance you may need to bivy somewhere. (don't expect people at 18k camp to help out) This opinion is if the weather turns on you. But that aside, the 0 should work in june, especially if you have two tent mates. IMO

Some kind of asolo goretex, high top, gnarly backpack boot (model unknown except it was $190 normally) for $49 cause someone thought the shoe cut the laces too easily. I wonder if people return things then go back to buy it at the reduced price to save the bucks. also a small butane stove that didn't work for $5, returned to distributor for a new one. Too easy.

olive oil gets sun but starts to lose it around 10am, then the shadow crawls up the route. Don't get there too late ot it will be shady and cool. Don't get there too early or you will have to wait for the sun. In between these two times you will be waiting behind the hordes that know about the route. (well known winter route) So get there in that perfect two minute window. January is cold so plan your routes according to sunshine. left side of canyons (as looking from road) have no sun (includes frogland). Look to the right side of canyons unless it is cloudy then you are hosed. I would also stay away from climbs that involve lots of elevation gain to get to cause it will be cold even in the sun. that wall with the Tunnel route has sun for about 3 hours in the morning. solar slab, olive oil, brass wall, cat in hat, maybe Y2K, and most of the pullouts should be good places to go to.

I would have said Serratus but alas they are gone. I would look into the MEC packs as I think they have incorporated the line into thiers. They were good and fairly inexpensive. Maybe some local canucks can speak up about the MEC pack line.

Would have to agree with John on this helmet. Last week my tool popped and smacked me hard in the forhead, right underneath the helmet. Some good blood was pouring and a nice scar I bet. I have been thinking of the consequences of a shot to the nose or teeth and the damages, to me and the wallet. This week I have been looking into hockey masks! Jason (friday the 13th style) on ice. thanks for showing the mask John. gene

Judging by the NWS forcast (whichis generally right) there is a lots of new snow falling, especially in the higher elevations which is were the only ice could be found. Not a good place to be looking for ice, which is generally in drainages. But you should be pulling out your skiis, boards, snowshoes, kiddie sleds, inner tubes, or plastic trash bags and slide down hills. Our ice game is over for the meantime.

Alex is fond of the Akai in canmore. fairly cheap, clean and has a kitchenette. something like $55/night. I don't think you will have any problem finding rooms or beds in hostel now the holidays are over. Rampart hostel is good but pricy (around $27/night/person) but close to lots of great terrain. some nice 3's and 4's around rampart and fairly avi free: shades of beauty (4) tangle falls (3, craggin style) panther falls (4) sniveling gulley (3) weeping (4) you could do the lower pitches and then bail at the steep part elliot left hand (4) such a cool route without lots of people 2 oclock falls (2 but still cool) nothing but the breast (4 but lower bits were melted out as of last week) balfour wall (various like cragging) lots of good routes there with a "wilderness" feel. (if you can forget about the convienent highway right there) Such a cool place! enjoy! gene

Alpine ascents and american alpine inst. probably won't have rainier trips in your time frame. RMI will. My view is biased so I will not give my opinion on good and bad guide services. But ask others about their experiences with guide services when choosing one. Alpine ascents, amer alpine, mountain madness and cascade alpine all have varied programs to fit your needs and time frame. Will probably be in other mountains than rainier though. I doubt that you will find trips on adams too. We don't know your alpine experience yet, so you may need to take a skills course before going on a bigger trip. Depends on the company. Feel free to PM me with more questions. (I work for alpine ascents) gene

Oh boy, dougherty guidebook......book of sandbags and lies. This is the best guidebook only by being the only guidebook. Beware of sandbags and misinformation. Every route should be researched by asking for personal info and using your common sense. Some descents are nightmares. some ascents are underrated. Be ready for routes that are twice as hard as described. This book is one of the reasons such great hardman come out of canada. I can supply you some info on routes that I have done.

For those interested on going out that way during xmas break or whatever, the DOT will be closing the hwy to install culverts or something. So don't bother trying to get past which is around 13 miles from where the road is closed for winter anyway. Looks like this work is east of cascade pass though. gene All SR 20 Lanes Closed Next Week in Whatcom County Date: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 Contact: Dustin Terpening, Public Information Officer, (360) 757-5997 (Burlington) Dave Crisman, Project Engineer, (360) 428-1593 (Mount Vernon) Mark Hammer, Asst. Project Engineer, (360) 428-1593 (Mount Vernon) BURLINGTON - WSDOT and its contractor Wilder Construction will close all lanes of State Route 20 east of Newhalem in Whatcom County next week to install two new five-foot diameter concrete culverts under the highway. The new culverts will help funnel water from Falls Creek under SR 20 and into the Skagit River. Closures · Tuesday, Dec. 27 - Thursday, Dec. 29: crews will close all lanes of SR 20 at Falls Creek (milepost 121.5) from 7:45 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. daily. · Crews will maintain access for emergency vehicles during the closures. There are no detours. Drivers should plan accordingly. Currently, SR 20 is closed for the winter at milepost 134, 13 miles east of our construction zone. WSDOT closes the North Cascades Pass every year for the winter due to snow and avalanche danger. Installing the new culverts now is crucial to completing other phases of the project and finishing construction before the North Cascades Pass opens in spring 2006. Once the culverts are in place, crews will finish building a rock wall between the ditch and the road. The rock wall will further help protect the road and drivers from falling rocks. This work is part of a larger $13 million project to protect drivers passing through this rockslide prone area. We are currently building a large rock-catching ditch and a 21-foot high berm to protect drivers from future rockslides. For more details about the project and to see pictures of the ditch, visit www.wsdot.wa.gov/projects/sr20/rockslideditch.