fleblebleb

Put it on the locker you used as the main attachment point of the anchor... I think there is plenty of time for racking the cordelette after the leader has clipped in to the next anchor but before he's put you on belay and you can climb - you know, while you're dismantling the anchor. Of course that assumes you don't need more than the first anchor piece for safety, not so smart for hanging belays... Fine for lots and lots of alpine routes though, and I'm guessing most of us aren't concerned with shaving seconds when there are hanging belays involved. Then the real question is how fast can you get the cordelette unracked and retied, to set up the anchor. [Alpine theorist mode=on] Has anybody experimented with not untying the cordelette, just racking it and then adjusting the knot the next time it's used? I guess the procedure would become something like this - lead to the anchor, place and clove hitch the first bomber piece, yell off belay, set-up the rest of the hold-any-fall anchor, grab the pretied cordelette, clip the three loops to the three parts of the anchor, adjust the knot to equalize in the direction of a fall, and put the follower on belay. Throw in a piece for upward pull sometime before starting on the next pitch... If the three loops of the cordelette are about as long as a shoulder-length sling then it can be racked over the shoulder. I think mine may be a little shorter, my cordelettes are 20'. The locker just sits in the main loop the whole time. The other alternative would be to clip the other three loops into the locker and rack the whole thing, preferrably high on the back of a gear sling so it's well out of the way. Either way it should be less of a mess than three shoulder-length slings with biners... Actually, is this the same as Strickland's method? Do you guys use a figure 8 or an overhand for the anchor? The overhand is easier to adjust. [Alpine theorist mode=off, asbestos=on] [ 05-16-2002, 01:18 PM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

Hey Turd, maybe he's just a regular guy that's climbed lots of stuff and has cool photos to share? Even if he isn't you don't have to worry since whatever he's got probably isn't contagious and you're stuck in Cali anyways. Bring on the spray...

Lifted off the UW Climbing Club mailing list... --- If anyone's been to Smith lately, you may have noticed some signs saying "Stop Cogentrix." I'm usually not an active activist but this one caught my eye and I decided to check it out. Looks like they're going to put in a power plant (that makes power for California) really close to the park. Take a look at some info and please sign the petition at: http://www.petitiononline.com/Grizzly/petition.html info: http://www.smithrock.com/flash/cogentrix.html (of course you can find more by simply searching)

3. A man in Alabama died from rattlesnake bites. It seems that he and a friend were playing a game of catch, using the rattlesnake as a ball. The friend - no doubt a future Darwin Awards candidate - was hospitalised. Hey Wayne, do you figure they were practicing for A13?

Let's say access limitations because of Peregrine nests would start to affect a sufficiently large number of crags for us to run into trouble finding stuff to climb. I'd guess it would be time to take them off the endangered species list around then... if not earlier...

Some day I'm going to learn to first read, then post. Does somebody have a clear idea about the legal text of the fixed anchor ban? Mattp? Anyone? http://www.outsidemag.com/magazine/200010/200010disp9.html According to the Outside Mag. article clean gear anchors aren't considered permanent, therefore cannot be considered to be "installations" and therefore aren't an issue. Is this correct? Has anything changed? Does the fixed anchor ban mean that existing anchors would be removed? That would seem kind of stupid... the installation of an ugly hole/chopped bolt/whatever... Does it mean that existing bolts at crags and walls must not be replaced? That would suck...

Heh, dive into the rathole. Whee! I dig the fixed anchors ban, at least the spirit of it. If it were enforced to the point where we couldn't leave clean gear (slings, nuts, rap rings; no bolts or pitons) as rap anchors it would positively suck. But no worries, it is quite impossible to enforce it to such an extent. Besides, such anchors need rebuilding at least once a season, so who really cares? Leave one behind and either nobody ever sees it again or it is cut and brought back once it needs replacement. The key is that there is no lasting impact. This is the spirit of the fixed anchors ban - if I understand it correctly. Furthermore, it's hard to argue that leaving a clean anchor constitutes littering because the anchor serves a useful purpose. I don't know anyone that would replace a failing anchor and chuck the old slings off the cliff. In contrast, bolts and pitons scar the rock. I love clipping bolts myself, but only at sport climbing crags like Frenchman Coulee and Little Si. What's the difference between a sport climbing crag and a wilderness area? Let reasonable people decide - as long as *both* categories are populated I'll be happy. I would consider donating to Wild Wilderness myself, if I weren't continually broke Probably in equal measures with the Access Fund. Then I'd cross my fingers and hope I'd have played a part in getting some reasonable people on both sides of the table...

Did you lose it? Damn I hate it when that happens. Maybe ask in our new Lost & Found forum?

I have wide feet and Salomon boots that could not be any smaller length-wise. I've had no problems with the width of those boots though.

How 'bout some more detail?

Were all those Patagonia thingies the same stuff you were wearing before you went to sleep? Clothing in order of decreasing warmth: (1) dry underwear from your pack, (2) nothing, (3) whatever sweaty, wet stuff you were wearing while you dug and ate. Seems to me you can pretty reliably blame your chills on moisture. My 2 cents/stebbi

Yeah, err, maybe I should have been making fun of you Country Yak, although I wasn't Hey, can't somebody make a cool spray gremlin? Spittle flying all over or some such?

Cool thread. I used to downhill ski as a kid, started skiing again this season on teles and it isn't so hard to pick up. I tried using my climbing boots with the tele bindings for an approach to an ice climb. That was really funny and stupid. I got such awful muscle cramps in my feet because the boots lack support, I could barely stand. Not a way to go. I'm saving up for a new pair of aggressive skis and I'm going to transfer my fancy tele bindings to those. My current skis are really light and I'm going to get silvrettas to mount on them. Then I'll be able to do approaches on climbing trips in climbing boots and go skiing for turns on the tele gear. Net result, one pair of boots on each trip. Lugging an extra pair of boots around is super awful. One thing I disagree with in a previous post is benefits of AT over tele for touring. Judging from trips with my randonnee ski-toting friends tele gear is cool for rolling terrain because you never have to mess with boots or bindings. [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

ALRIGHT Nacho, you got it down! Hey kleenex, thanks for the link and the offer man. Those sat images are awesome. You know, I fell so much last weekend it isn't even funny. That's what you get from flailing at sport routes that are way over your head Wait, I just realized klenke sounds like a toothless person pronouncing the Icelandic word klinka, which means woman working in a beauty parlor or something like that. Or maybe it means doorknob. If I open a beauty parlor in hell you can come work for me, or be a doorknob. If you do have teeth you probably wouldn't make a good doorknob though. I can't really take you up on the offer, I don't really know enough to ask interesting questions. But thanks, maybe later?/Stefan [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

Yeah, and my daddy can beat up your daddy

Wow, here I was thinking that the weekends go bad when fronts that built up way out there over the Pacific hit us at a bad time, by random coincidence. You guys are funny - well, except for that bit messing up my screen name, it really isn't that complicated klonker But, seriously, I'm just trying to figure out stuff like orographic this and convergence that, yada and blah. I can go to the bookstore and goof, but not while I'm stuck at work plus I'd much rather get a recommendation...

I'm fascinated by the weather... why is Rainier only visible from Seattle when I can stare at it from my office window, but buried in goo when I have time off...? Does anyone have any recommendations for a layman's introductory text on weather phenomena? Could be an introductory college textbook but something nicer to read wouldn't be at all bad. Any ideas?

Would someone post human-readable directions to whatever place it is?

Sobo, you might want to look into grad school

Club's full of lawyers and there are waivers and shit. I don't think a lawsuit would get anywhere. After all, we (including them) climb at our own volition.

My measurements indicate that the tree people use when they're top-roping the small flow next to the Alpental quad lift doesn't really have any bark left around the anchor slings. As I bolstered the anchor with an extra sling and hooked my rope up to the whole thing I was thinking, this is kinda sad.

Yeah, post again much closer to your trip. You'll definitely find someone. I'd be up for the Fisher Chimneys route myself, but I don't plan that far ahead.

What is gu used for in the porn industry?

New alp or reverso Ray?

Sure, sounds great, can I get a ride?