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How does copyright work for posts on the board? If somebody wanted to include posts in something like a guidebook, would there be any need to contact the posters? Can posters retain copyright of their posts if they mention that explicitly? Does the site registration agreement mention copyright? (I know, I'm too lazy to read for myself...) Just curious...

Dude, that page you've got there is awesome! Great photos.

Isn't the Becky Route in Frenchman's Coulee?

Wasn't it a 10 year old, never used rope, and held one fall but then broke? Urban myth? Or not? Fern, I have leftovers of several rolls of cloth tape, you could probably string together the pieces and get a decent length cloth tape rope, should I ship this stuff to you?

Yeah, identical as far as I can tell. I'll get my photos back early next week, post some. Stefan, but how do you manage to get any sleep? I'm lucky if I can fall asleep at 10 pm. I'm more used to midnight. That doesn't work out too well if the plan is to be on the highway by 1 am... We didn't have to park in Leavenworth Wayne.

Hey headbutt, I don't care how you climb. I hear you climb pretty burly though, and fast. It's all good to me. We're just having a fun little argument about style, no biggie. By the way, I think I met you on the way to Stuart Lake once, you guys were going to bivi and climb Stuart Glacier Couloir in the morning. You had a pretty fat pack there if I remember correctly. Possibly fatter than anything I have ever carried into the Cascades, excepting my 5 day Pickets trip. But, I'd prefer to climb that route the same way, with a bivi by the lake. The point I was trying to make is that how you approach doesn't have to affect your climbing style. If you have the time to do so, then do the approach, bivi, get perfect timing for starting the route, and climb it with the least weight you can get away with (personal responsibility...). When the climb is done, pick up your bivi gear and go home. Anyways. I did a route couch-to-couch yesterday and I'm pretty hammered today - really feeling the lack of sleep. Which one is better, a light pack on the trail but lack of sleep, or heavier on the approach but fully rested after a comfortable bivi?

Lead, follow, move on.

Precisely. It's all frozen solid up there, just like it has been through umpteen other thoroughly trip-reported trips in April. Info is, nothing has changed. Send me a PM if you want to ask something specific - unless you're darkstar, in which case I'll just lie to you.

Based on my experiences with the rangers at Glacier I would not call them, for any reason, ever. They seem clueless in the extreme. If you do call, then make sure you're talking to a climbing ranger.

Early April, Triple Couloirs ShiningWhiteKnuckles and I decide it's time to finally go climbing after months of talking about it. We set out for Triple Couloirs. The road is closed but we sleep next to the car at the gate. We wake up at 2 am. It's 50 degrees. When we reach the trailhead it's 45 degrees. It's freakishly warm. We don't want to be up there in this kind of weather - turn around, salvage a work day in Seattle. Fuck this. Mid April, Triple Couloirs Knuckles and I drive halfway up Eight Mile road, sleep next to the car. It pours all night. Knuckles sleeps in a puddle. We don't even talk about getting up there. Drive back home, salvage a work day in Seattle. Fuck this. Late April, Triple Couloirs Knuckles has had enough of the car-to-car/car bivi thing. He calls me, wants to go couch-to-couch from Seattle. I vehemently disagree. Sounds like a horrible idea. Everybody and their dog has been doing the route lately. I badly want to climb it. Three hours after Knuckles called me I call him back. We're on. Knuckles picks me up at 1 am at my place. We are PSYCHED! Finally the weather isn't going to screw us. His car has a massive boil-over just east of Issaquah. State patrol, tow truck, Seattle. It's a blown head gasket or cracked engine block or some such thing. No climbing and now Knuckles doesn't have a car anymore. Fuck this. May 7, Triple Couloirs I pick Knuckles up a little after 1 am, after 2 hours sleep. We park at the trailhead, hike up to and across the frozen lake, everything is frozen solid and conditions are great. We start climbing just before 7 am. Stubborn birds get worm. Took us too long to make it to the cc.com bbq though. I almost (?) fell asleep at the wheel driving back. Haven't been this beat for a long time. What a day!

Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard

I was thinking, it's apparently better if you're visibly in a lot of pain in those Nevada hospitals. Yelling and screaming, like. Hey, where's icegirl? She works in a hospital. How frequent is this kind of stuff? Whatsit take to get immediate attention?

Mike. That sucks. Fucking incredible hospital story too.

I heard tradgirl has been updated umpteen times already this year

For me a free solo of the Tooth would be bold For Guy Lacelle a free solo of a short WI 4 in good conditions isn't bold. Beauty something beholder, boldness too.

I've only had that feeling on roped climbs, after climbing past the point where the last piece of pro stopped being useful, or where there was no solid pro available - but "a disheartening acceptance" is a pretty good description of it.

Ugh. Put it on every lightpost

Well duh, style is all about being absolutist. Light and fast, leave no trace, bada bimm. Smell the troll. If you're too lazy to hump bivi gear (all 2-3 pounds that are really necessary) then you'll pound the trail in the night instead. If that gets you to where you want to be when you want to be there, then it can't be improved on. That still doesn't make it better - just equally good. I go car-to-car more often than I would really like. It's cost me some climbs too, Triumph NE Ridge and probably Triple Couloirs this season. But I do it for silly reasons like not having time to approach the day before. And Steve, I've never "mentored" anyone. I've taught some people how to belay, that's all. I don't really like alpine climbing with people that have even less experience than I do. It's too scary. Cragging is an altogether different kind of animal. Pretty much all my alpine partners have skills comparable to mine. The climbs I've done with more experienced partners have been very cool, but also quite rare.

Try this on for size; the amount of stuff you carry on the approach doesn't have to have anything to do with how you do the climb. Carrying bivi gear to the base, sleeping, then blitzing without a pack, that's perfect style. There is no sensible motivation to do otherwise... other than showing up for work of course. Should the need to show up for work dictate what's good climbing style, or not? As for the Colchuck area snow and ice climbs, the best, safest, most respectable way to go is clearly to camp at the lake and climb fully rested at the ideal time of the day.

Book -> $$ Tradgirl etc -> gratis Read tradgirl etc, buy gas, go climbing Actually, Eric's is a good suggestion - Mike and Andy's cartoon books are a riot, and have all the stuff.

Aren't they plastic/leather hybrids? Then they won't break in at all. The shank isn't going to soften up either. Perfect for waiting for the helicopter, eh?

Actually, any computer problem you can fix with a screwdriver is a good computer problem

If you put in enough security measures to be safe, then you can no longer do anything. Hey, it makes perfect sense, security is intended to get in people's way right? Allison, if you had enough of a system left to get a blue screen then that means your file system was intact, which means all your data was fine... until the reformat. Screwdriver + a friend with an intact machine -> plug your disk into friend's machine -> recover your stuff since only the OS was warped. But, now it's too late because paying somebody to recover what was left after the reformat is prohibitively expensive. Oops

That book's outdated. The Mounties would be better off reading tradgirl and so would you.

Oy, I've met the real krusty and I don't think it's you. Krusty is crusty but a cool guy, you sound more like Tomcat so far. Get lost bugger.