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fleblebleb

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Everything posted by fleblebleb

  1. I guess you missed AlpineK's slides of the Cassin Ridge. In your face sucka Methink Kurt's done most of the notable climbs around here, plus stuff like the Cassin and the north face of Robson, and all from a sitting start in the car!
  2. Well that makes two of us so far
  3. And a harness for the inflatable partner, and some lead weights. Can I buy an inflatable ropegun somewhere?
  4. Funniest thread for awhile. Get a helmet too, while you're at it.
  5. Correctly isn't the way the picture shows it. Ugly is the way the picture shows it. Actually, I bet DFA tied his dick into a knot and looking down found it all trim and bomber. Get a clue sporto! You're supposed to look more like a chickenhead than a crack down there. And your weenie can stay attached on its own, no need for a tie-in! Loser. But it's all quite alright, DFA has no need for his manhood unknotted, well, except for pissing, but since there is piss and shit coming out of his head already things definitely haven't gotten any worse with one little knot. Cheerio! Oops, sorry, unmentionable cereal. Didn't mean to get you aroused DFA. But I bet it still fits, knot or not, no worries.
  6. Can I get that in a can, or some handy consumer packaging I could open at an appropriate time?
  7. Boy did you go the wrong way I fell through the slush, I mean ice, on that lake last year, it was pretty easy to get out. You should have gone for it.
  8. Alright, I want a new bow too. Shoot some snaffle ass.
  9. Superglue the belayer to the rock right where you start climbing, by the nose.
  10. Err, Eric, you have it a bit backwards too... Hey Mammut rep it's a real shame BD won't let you guys lower those prices
  11. The Euro pricing is still a bit of a problem and we are still working on a solution. Ugh, grr, aaargh, NO NO NO NO NO, you got this completely backwards. Euro pricing works great. North American pricing is the problem. Preventing European merchants from selling Grivel gear in the States isn't a "solution". It's just nonsense. Instead of marking Grivel stuff up to BD prices, SELL IT AT EURO PRICES or as close as you can get. You'd own the whole market.
  12. Right-o, I think that's the Yos finish variant.
  13. Alright, I tied this DBBB thing and it's the ugliest, ungainliest knot anyone has had the gall to suggest weaving a rope into. Then I read the Climbing Ragazine "article" suggesting it as the knot of choice for the tie-in, replacing "... the figure-8, the knot taught to beginners, and the one that most people continue to use to tie in to their harnesses..." What did I learn from that? Well, it seems starting a day of alpine climbing with a 40' fall off an overhang would be an excellent idea, since then I'd be all that more certain my trusty old figure-8 would stay welded through the next 10-20 hours or so. Now that's handy. Anyways. To top it off, after playing with this uglyness for a little while it became clear that the picture is wrong. There is a different way to dress it that result in a bit more palatable weave - which is nice because it becomes easier to check. I'm still sticking to the figure-8 though. Otherwise I'd just tie a regular bowline with a Yosemite finish. That's a fairly elegant knot.
  14. Hmm. Was that post 666 Mitch? Bwahahah. Anyways. What makes a good free climbing placement is definitely also a good aid placement, no? Can't think of any case where it wouldn't be. Zippering is scary. Superglue the belayer to the rock, preferably by the nose? Runners... Starting to aid taught me an enormous lot. Particularly relevant to the exact thing Retro is pointing out was seeing which pieces come out with a simple yank (upwards, alright - sideways, kinda discouraging) and which ones required heavy labor with the nut tool before they will even budge. Aiding and cleaning your own pieces can help get a feel for which are the latter pieces. In fact, I'll say this - while aiding is cool for learning, cleaning your aid pieces is a whole lot cooler still.
  15. Well bugger me. Guess where this quote is taken from: "... The lightest rack would not include so many cams. We included the cams because we believe they are worth a little bit of added weight for most conditions. Cams fit a wider range and will usually fit in more places than nuts. Cams are usually faster easier to place and remove than nuts. Cams are also less likely to wiggle loose from rope friction than nuts. Anyone just starting to lead climb and place protection will want to learn about Cams right from the beginning."
  16. I've changed my opinion. Go with an all-pins rack and bring the biggest hammer you can find. Or, just forget all this removable protection nonsense and get a bolt kit!
  17. RobBob so got me figured out I saw that autosig and immediately wanted to reply and quote the entire post, hahahaha. If the copyright notice actually has any legal value then quote-reply is a No-No... ridiculous.
  18. People, people. Two things. Wall of Nines, and Nevermind. Five fun easy 9s on the one wall and what, 10+ steep 10a-12a on the other? X38 does not suck.
  19. I bought one of those little black packs, the ice pack I think, it looked like a great design in the store. Then I put about five pounds in it and walked home, 20 minutes or so, god that thing was a bitch to carry. It hurt my back. I returned it. The frame sheet was angled so that the lower end of it dug right into the small of my back, instead of lying flat. It needs some fixing, needs a little S-curve to it or maybe the pack needs to be sown a bit different at the bottom, or something. What do I know. I have five 360s, those things are the shit especially the stubby. Racking them is shit-ty though, can only fit two on a biner really. Two 360s and two $18 Charlet Moser with a fixed, simple hanger rack great together and make up a sweet ice rack for alpine stuff. Methinks Grivel should sell the screw with a simple hanger too, for much cheaper than the 360. It wouldn't cut out of 360 sales, there is no beating that swivel thingy where you really need it and nobody is going to spend $60 on it if they don't need it. Cheaper screws with that reverse angle thread design would be nice. Might want to see about that $60+tax too, I got mine from Europe for $30+shipping. Why do we have to pay double over here again? I forget. The price on the Jorasses axe is ridiculous. Double the European price. Send me a PM, reasonable price, I'll buy a 60 cm from you. Anyways. Other than that pack, and the prices (), Grivel is pretty much the best stuff around. I don't buy it though, because the markups are too much over the European prices.
  20. See? See!? Told you so.
  21. DMM wallnuts are flinging awesome and better than any other stopper design I have placed. Hands down better than BD stoppers. Disagree and I will beat you with my #11 hex
  22. Neither? I'm not really up for following a newbie up a multi-pitch trad route, sorry. Methinks your slope is getting a little slippery in that argument you're having with Mitch.
  23. Fair enough. I got my 11 mil in '97 and I still use it occasionally, so I shouldn't say much. Don't remember making any climbing plans with you though. Maybe if we do then we can use my new rope.
  24. Just because my penis is small doesn't mean my sexual prowness is compromised! Aw, you probably want to be hush about your little problem there. Even if you're being all sincere now people will eventually start teasing you about it. You have to watch yourself on this bboard, constantly. You're welcome/fleb
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