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willstrickland

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Everything posted by willstrickland

  1. Hell yeah! Hook me up. I need: Egg sucking leeches, elk hair caddis, glo bugs, big black wooly buggers (for pike), regular #10-#12 wooly buggers, bead head nymph #10-#14, pheasant tail nymph, salmon flesh, and Brad Hanson's widow makers.
  2. Not true at all masternate32! You can place safely place forged friends in horizontals if you set them up properly. There are holes drilled in the stem above the trigger near the lobes (or there used to be anyway, I haven't seen one of recent vintage). Tie off the hole near the cam lobes with cordage and then use the cordage loop to clip into if the stem would be loaded over an edge. In fact, if you met any east-coasters in the mid 80s to early 90's you probably saw all their friends tied off like that. The old rigid friends I have are still tied off like that. EDITED: I'm late on the draw, Ade said basically the same thing above.
  3. From CNN.com: PORTLAND, Oregon (AP) -- A former Oregon governor and transportation secretary under President Carter has admitted to a sexual relationship with a 14-year-old girl in the 1970s, when he was mayor of Portland. Neil Goldschmidt, 63, who was elected mayor at age 32 and served one term as governor from 1987-1991, told The Oregonian about the relationship for a story in Friday editions, shortly after resigning from two chairmanships Thursday. According to Oregon laws in 1975, sex with a girl under 16 constituted third-degree rape, but the statute of limitations expired in 1979. Citing only health problems, Goldschmidt on Thursday relinquished his posts from the Oregon Board of Higher Education and a company that has been trying to acquire Portland General Electric. He has been diagnosed with heart arrhythmia and blocked arteries that put him at risk of a heart attack. Following his resignations, Goldschmidt told the newspaper he came forward after learning a weekly paper was on the verge of reporting the relationship. The Willamette Week, which publishes Wednesdays, reported on its Web site that it told the governor a day earlier it was preparing a story about his affair. In a statement to The Oregonian, Goldschmidt said he has lived with "enormous guilt and shame" in the 30 years since the nine-month affair, which started in 1975 when he was 35. He was married at the time. Goldschmidt said he agreed to a financial settlement with the woman in 1994, "believing I was partly responsible for her difficulties coping with her life." He did not identify her; the story on the Willamette Week's Web site said she was the daughter of a Goldschmidt aide and sometimes babysat for Goldschmidt's children. "How can such behavior be erased when the damage to others and to myself lives on?" he said. "I have sat in places of worship each year at Yom Kippur, the day of atonement in my religious tradition (Judaism), reading in silence, searching for personal peace. And I have found that the answer to that question is that it cannot be erased. "The pain and damage that I have caused have been with me constantly. I have known all along that my private apologies and actions, deep and true though they were, would never be enough. I apologize now, publicly and completely." Goldschmidt and his lawyer did not return several phone calls from The Associated Press. Rumors of extramarital affairs were hinted at during Goldschmidt's political career, and he decided against a second term as governor after his first marriage ended. Besides serving as governor and Portland mayor, Goldschmidt was transportation secretary for the Carter administration, an executive with Nike and an international trade consultant
  4. I've made this recommendation to alot of people after having done it myself. This will get you alot of quality out of your approach labor: Get your full 3 night backcountry pass. Day 1. Hike up to Irene's Arete, climb it, camp near the base of Irene's. Multi-pitch 5.8 (I think we did it in 6 pitches). Day 2. Move your camp up to the lower saddle and spend the rest of the day chillin'. Don't miss the privy, it might be the best view you'll have from a toilet seat in your lifetime. Day 3. Climb the Direct Exum. Crux pitch is 5.7 that protects well and has good holds. Fantastic position. You can make it harder by taking a .10a variation (the Golden face?). Descend and camp at the lower saddle again. Day 4. NW couloir on the Middle. Moderate snow climb (could have ice depending on time of year) to the summit of the middle. Hike out, drink beer.
  5. For those who remember....
  6. Absolute peak readings where you just happen to have recording thermometers are not a particularly convincing indicator, average temps worldwide are. The glaciers are not retreating for no reason. Climbing the Eiger is now practically russian roulette. If you doubt that man is the cause, give the EPA Air Division a ring and ask for some annual stats on worldwide greenhouse gas emissions in carbon equiv...the number will be somewhere around 4 BILLION METRIC TONS. And growing. Meanwhile, the large filters/carbon sinks known as the tropical rainforests are being systematically removed. But whatever, it's junk science. By the way, everything was created in six days, and that's rock solid science. God told Bush that global warming is not true...are you calling God a liar?
  7. The energy potential of liquid, oil-derivative fuels is usually expressed in heating units (e.g. BTUs). Gasoline, consisting of lower carbon-number compounds, is less dense than diesel...about .75g/cc for gas, about .85g/cc for diesel. By WEIGHT, gasoline has more BTUs By VOLUME, diesel has more BTUs So you have to define "equivalent amount" before you can decide which has more BTUs, because the answer will differ for equivalent weight vs. equivalent volume. And to further complicate things, there are many grades of diesel, consisting of mixtures of molecules in different hydrocarbon classes (aromatics, paraffins, napthenes). The grade is determined by the distribution of these. Similarly, there are several grades of gasoline with the premium typically being slightly more dense than the basic. So you're both right and you're both wrong.
  8. The gist of the bally's argument is that using the weights will slow you enough so that you don't achieve your target HR for the workout and that high reps aren't effective for building strength. They are focusing on the fact that these weights don't help in the CARDIO aspect. These are true statements, but don't tell the whole story, particularly for your case. If you use a HR monitor you should be able to maintain the target HR regardless of the weights unless you are doing hard interval workouts. Although you will not gain pure strength in your hip flexors (i.e. you won't be able to lift more than before) you WILL gain endurance. This is precisely what you're after. You want to be able to lift those 5lb boots with your hip flexors all day long, you're not looking to be able to lift a 25lb boot for eight reps. Since you can already lift that weight for hundreds of reps, you just want endurance. Nobody tells a marathon runner to not log any long mileage days but to instead skip them and do nothing but sprint repeats. That is essentially what bally's is saying. In my not so humble opinion, ballys is targeting the gaper soccer mom and middle aged CEO set with that advice, and it is probably good advice for them. BUT, for your training goal I think it is an effective strategy and one I plan to utilize myself. The one thing on a long alpine route that gets to me is soreness in my left hip flexor from the weight of boot/cramps. Finally, I would assume that you don't use the weights when doing interval style workouts but only during extended sustained workloads. I believe that having them (weights) on when trying to do anaerobic threshold/VO2max/cruise intervals work would be counter productive because it would probably decrease the HR you achieve signficantly, and alter your form (thereby making you more susceptible to injury). So for 20-120 minute constant load stairmaster workouts For intervals I don't mean to imply that using 8-12 rep lifting exercises to build strength your hip flexors would not be beneficial, I think it would be. I only mean to say that endurance of the hip flexors is what you're after (as well as cardio endurace, obviously) and you've chosen the right way to increase endurance in those hip flexors at a workload consistent with what you will face in the mountains (i.e. the ankle weights are close to the weight of your boots+cramps).
  9. willstrickland

    My Puffy

    I gotcha Puffy rye-cheah beyotch!
  10. The zig zags are the pitches. To prep for NW Face, do four things: 1. Log all the mileage you can. Epic days at Index at Squish. If you can pull off a 20 pitch day at Index, you'll have no problem. Probably if you can pull off 15 pitches at index with all the moving around you'd have to do, you'll have no problem. 2. Do all the clean aid trade routes at index or squish. The aid on HD is easy, but you need to be able to do it quick and without having to think about it too much. If you and your partner each log 10 pitches on lead on C2 a week or two before you get to Yos, it'll be plenty. 3. Climb a whole bunch of chimney pitches. The middle third of the route with the chimneys and aiding the zig zags is what slows most people. If you can cruise the chimneys, you'll be a step ahead of the game. 4. Know the route and your game plan and be in good cardio shape. Know exactly how you're going to handle the pendos, if you will short fix at all, which pitches you can link, etc. Be in good overall shape because the hike up there ain't no picnic like walking to the base of El Cap. You might consider walking up to the base, fixing the first few pitches and blasting the next day. That'll give you an extra hour or two. Some dude from the east coast has a photo-journal of the route that is very detailed. If you're not worried about spoiling the adventure, I'd take a look. http://ghiz.org/halfdome.shtml
  11. A new route on Great Trango, solo, on acid.
  12. party McCain could run on a third party ticket and win this election. He has stated unequivocally that he will not seek the VP and will not run on the Dem ticket. I would vote for him even though I don't agree with several of his stances on issues. The thing that concerns me is that he will be be getting on up in years in '08 and might not run against Hillary then. While Bush sounds like an idiot speaking, Kerry sounds like a windbag wishy washy politician. If the man would sack-up and act like a MAN instead of a mouse, he might have a chance. Being on the debate team at Yale is probably hurting him at this point. At least Dean had balls. I am worried that the Kerry camp will throw away the gift that George W. Bullshit is giving the Dems everyday when some new ineptitude or shady business is uncovered. It's worse than Gore...if you can't win this one, jeez you really suck. The race has been handed to him on a silver platter but Kerry stumbles and mumbles trying for damage control and seeking a message that will "play". I don't think he knows how to throw off the gloves and get mean. Look at Perot. And ugly little nasaly troll of a guy. But he was a straight shooter and he had plans. He had 30 minute infomercial kind of plans with charts and straight layman's explanations. Now take Perot and give him a good personality and better looks, a favorable war record, and a major party system behind him and Perot would have crushed all comers. The only thing going for the dems at this point is that people are pissed off and they will go to the polls. Turnout is their only hope. I'll probably vote for the douchebag Kerry because I cannot stomach thinking of another 4 years of Dubya the Dumbass, or I may not vote at all..Bush will win Alaska easily.
  13. 'cause you need a shower and shave?
  14. willstrickland

    Luke!!!

  15. willstrickland

    W00t w00t

    p00t p00t. Oh my, excuse me. Chalupas for lunch.
  16. SOURCE: http://www.armchairsubversive.com/ * Republican racist pedophile and United States Senator Strom Thurmond had sex with a 15-year old black girl which produced a child. * Republican activist Lawrence E. King, Jr. organized child sex parties at the White House during the 1980s. * Republican lobbyist Craig J. Spence organized child sex parties at the White House during the 1980s. * Republican Mayor Philip Giordano is serving a 37-year sentence in federal prison for sexually abusing 8- and 10-year old girls. * Republican Congressman Donald "Buz" Lukens was found guilty of having sex with a minor and sentenced to one month in jail. * Republican fundraiser Richard A. Delgaudio was found guilty of child porn charges. * Republican activist Mark A. Grethen convicted on six counts of sex crimes involving children. * Republican activist Randal David Ankeney pleaded guilty to attempted sexual assault on a child. * Republican Congressman Dan Crane had sex with a minor working as a congressional page. * Republican activist and Christian Coalition leader Beverly Russell admitted to an incestuous relationship with his step daughter. * Republican governor Arnold Schwarzenegger had sex with a 16 year old when he was 28. * Republican congressman and anti-gay activist Robert Bauman was charged with having sex with a 16-year-old boy he picked up at a gay bar. * Republican activist Marty Glickman (a.k.a. "Republican Marty"), was taken into custody by Florida police on four counts of unlawful sexual activity with a juvenile and one count of delivering the drug LSD. * Republican legislative aide Howard L. Brooks, an advisor to a California assemblyman, was charged with molesting a 12-year old boy and possession of child pornography. * Republican Senate candidate John Hathaway was accused of having sex with his 12-year old baby sitter and withdrew his candidacy after the allegations were reported in the media. * Republican preacher Stephen White was arrested after allegedly offering $20 to a 14-year-old boy for permission to perform oral sex on him. * Republican talk show host Jon Matthews of Houston was indicted for indecency with a child, including exposing his genitals to a girl under the age of 17. * Republican anti-gay activist Earl "Butch" Kimmerling confessed to molesting an 8-year old girl after he attempted to stop a gay couple from adopting her. * Republican Party leader Paul Ingram of Thurston County, Washington, pleaded guilty to six counts of raping his daughters and served 14 years in federal prison. * Republican St. Louis Election Board official Kevin Coan was arrested and charged with trying to buy sex from a 14-year-old girl whom he met on the Internet. * Republican politician Andrew Buhr, former committeeman for Hadley Township Missouri, was charged with two counts of first degree sodomy with a 13-year old boy. * Republican politician Keith Westmoreland, a Tennessee state representative, was arrested on seven felony counts of lewd and lascivious exhibition to minors under 16 (i.e. exposing himself to children). * Republican anti-abortion activist John Allen Burt was charged with sexual misconduct involving a 15 year old girl. * Republican legislator, Richard Gardner, a Nevada state representative, admitted to molesting his two daughters. * Republican activist Parker J. Bena pleaded guilty to possession of child pornography on his home computer and was sentenced to 30 months in federal prison and fined $18,000. * Republican parole board officer and former Colorado state representative, Larry Jack Schwarz, was fired after child pornography was found in his possession And the Democrats can kiss my ass too. "Politicians: Power hungry scum of the earth since 1200 B.C."
  17. There are lots of interesing takes on the future of SS. I tend to agree with Joe, just let me keep my money - make me put it in an IRA if that's what it takes. There are a few ways that the dilemma can resolve itself. It the US economy grows at 2% above the average, problem solved. This is not likely. A second way, which may very well be the most feasible scenario, is that immigration continues to explode and/or is encouraged. Legislative fixes like Joe suggests could also solve the problem, but in any legislative answer there will be a small contingent of people who get really screwed. The coming SS crisis is just one effect that the age-wave will have on our economy. When the boomers retire, they can't eat their stocks. My generation is too small to absorb what the boomers sell, so an oversupply problem in the market may result, causing stocks to tank for quite a while. The ripple effects of that could be devestating. But again, there are solutions such as foreign investors pouring money into the market. May you live in intersting times!
  18. THIS IS YOUR SOLUTION: http://www.upack.com/t2t.asp This option requires you to load your stuff at one of their terminals, and retrieve it at one of their terminals. You can use as little as 3' of a trailer. Another option they have is: They also will pull a trailer up to your house, leave it for you to pack, and then deliver it to the destination. They'll use the unused space to haul commercial goods. I think there is a minimum space allocation. Where ya headed?
  19. Grrrr-animals! Dude, Garanimals rawked Tuffskins and Garanimals were high fashion when I was in Kindergarden!
  20. Sposered by: Brown Star *
  21. The CEO is chosen by the board. I don't think Will would be. Thanks for the ringing endorsements fellas! Can I quote you in my campaign propaganda?
  22. I read the bylaws yesterday. The system is so fahqed that you could never pull-off a grass roots uprising. Like cj said, you need either 1% of membership signatures (which is about 20,000 by my numbers) on a petition or a nomination from the current board to get on the ballot. And you would have to pull this off 5 times or more because of the 3 year terms in order to get a majority on the board. So even if you could do it, it would take many years. HOWEVER, there is one potential glitch that could possibly be exploited. I will not discuss it here, but if you are interested or even better if you are a lawyer and interested, contact me. I think there is alot of merit in Redoubt's view. But, I think that if REI had stayed true to its roots it would not endanger the survival of niche players like ClimbMax, PMS, etc. Look at the situation in Canada.
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