willstrickland

Liberal MaryLou said: And 3 weeks ago MaryLou said:

I heard this lady interviewed on NPR a month or two ago. I believe there was a thread at that time. She seemed pretty out of touch, definitely didn't sound like a climber herself.

People use it when soloing sometimes. Call it a "far-end hauler". People don't normally use it because you need a haul line twice as long if you haul from the upper anchor. If you "far-end" it, you can do it with a regular length haul line. On a pitch where the bag is likely to hang up when soloing, this is a good way to haul. The big disadvantage is you have to haul as you jug and you're pulling up so you can't really bodyweight haul (there are ways you can, but they are more trouble than they're worth). If you want a 2:1 adv on the haul, just use a 2:1 ratchet set-up. It's lighter than an extra 60m of static. Re: Fern's point - Instead of having the pig tied into the end of the haul line, if you pull the haul line taut from the upper anchor and tie the pig in at the shortest point, you can use the excess haul line as a lower-out. It's hard to explain, but picture this: It's 40m in a straight line from anchor to anchor. Tie the pig in at the 40m point after reaching the upper anchor and setting up the haul, use the extra 20m as lower-out.

No this is from a fed govt environmental regulator who sees enforcement and compliance work made into a mockery because the ultimate enforcers (i.e. the Justice Dept and EPA Dept of Counsel) who implement our enforcement work are spineless or sucking the corporate dick on orders from politicians. DISCLAIMER: I am speaking only for myself and my personal views, and make no claims to represent the views, standards, practices, or policy of the EPA, USACE, Justice Dept, or any other public agency. I worked for the EPA for five years doing CWA Section 401 point source enforcement. I now work for the USACE doing Section 404 wetlands permitting, enforcement/compliance. I've seen 8 figure penalties in cases that I spend 4+ years working on settled for barely six figures. I've seen violators whos cost benefit analysis said it was more effective to violate and fight the fines eventually settling for a small fraction of the assesable fine than to bring the necessary equipment on line to meet permit requirements. A $40 million maximum penalty settled for $100k and some paltry investment in infrastructure....the agency easily spent $350k on enforcement. The permittee is still violating their permit standards.

60m is std. I've never noticed retailers selling 150' statics...but that's probably because I was looking for the 60m. If you're asking this question, by the time you get around to doing a route with 70m pitches, you'll have worn out the first haul line you buy anyway. Get a 60.

Confusion shall become clarity, doubters will perish, the Nodder WILL triumph rising like a phoenix from the ash.

Whatever dudes, bitch at Ashcroft and the Justice Dept. Exxon can net $500million (assuming 10% return on capital) every year they can put off paying the fine. I guarantee they aren't paying that much to the lawyers who are tying it up in court. That's just smart business. Your gripe should seriously be with the govt, not ExxonMobil (who were bastards long before the Valdez spill).

How many of you who bitch about Wal Mart's labor practices, big tobacco's ethics, and Exxon's environmental practices own stock? You got a 401k at work? Got some indexed funds in there? S&P500 indexed fund or SPDRs? How about DJIA indexed or Diamonds? Cubes? Do you examine the complete holdings of every fund you have money in each quarter? Do you feel bad about owning Exxon (XOM), Altria (MO), and Wal Mart (WMT)? I'd even wager that most large cap mutual funds are holding each of these three. Checked out your holdings lately?

...should henceforth be called "Clintons". Discuss.

Dru, you cook by the "WTF is in my fridge?" method eh. All your recipes are like "hmmm, don't have much in the cupboard, lookin' lean in the pantry...aww screw it, just throw it all in there and stir it up"

I say just go to WinCo bulk bins, get some powdered hummus mix, label it as cornmeal, pay $0.25 lb for it, and stir some up in 30 seconds.

32oz Buckets for $3 at the Jolly Inn

Static, Yes. Size depends. When soloing shorter stuff (like one night on the wall), I use a 8mm x 60m static haul. Longer stuff (like a 2 person, 3-5 day wall), it's about 10-11mm x 60m static(static line is often sold in imperial measurements..10mm-11mm is about 3/8"-7/16"). For a tag line I either use the aforementioned 8mm static, or I might use an extra lead line which can come in handy if you get a core shot on your lead line, or you want to fix a pitch at the end of a day. An 8mm static is light, and packs tiny, but you don't want to be in a situation where you have to jug it. The strength rating on a static 8 is WAY lower than beefier ones...around 1000-2000lbf (4-8kn) from memory.

Use garlic oil instead of putting the cloves in the hummus. I keep a bottle of olive oil with 6 or 8 cloves in it. You should be putting some olive oil in the hummus anyway, and garlic oil works great for stir fry as well.

Frau!

If there were, you'd have just won it with that weak ass post. If you gonna bring it, bring it strong klunker.

Here's an example Rod, where I think the client gets scammed: A permit costs $15k + $5k per climber. 2 guides, 4 clients, total costs of $20k. The clients are footing 1/4 of the permit fee, or $5k each. Now add two independent teams of two who piggyback. Company charges them $5k each for a total of $20k thereby saving the indie teams $15k each. Permit fee has risen to $40k. The entire $40k is passed along to the original clients who don't know any better and have no idea what the permit costs or that they are being piggybacked. They're now paying $10k in permit fees each. Prospective Client: "Why is it $60k for this trip?" GuideCo: "Well, the permit fees alone come to $10k per client"

http://www.scarysquirrel.org/games/squirrelsquash/

Touche' Jon, you're right. I'll leave the 8======D eating for you though. TLG, giving them money won't make you tall or blonde.

Dood! I got Yakima towers on my Suby curved factory rack, they fit great. Yakima is actually in Arcata, across the bay from Eureka, but has always been there. The company was named after the river, but was never in WA. Jon - closet socialist since 1999.

What are you driving a Volvo or a Saab, swedey? Actually, since GM owns Saab and Ford owns Volvo...hmmm, maybe Yakima already owns Thule

This might be the most asinine thing I've read this month.

posing. Rod, you might do a bit of research before you adopt the belief that no guides are piggybacking on permits. It has happened and it will continue to happen. Same peak, different peaks, adding non-guided independent climbers to the permit for a little side cash, guiding the clients up the dog route then sending them home and using the permit to attempt a new or different route, adding guides who will not be guiding but just want to climb the peak, using the client permit to get to the area and through the bureacracy and bribing the liason officer to look the other way while they attempt a nearby objective. All of these have happened and as long as the peak fees are exorbitant, they will continue to happen. Your friend might not be participating in these tactics, but some are.

You wanker, giving your hard earned dollar to the Swedes! Jon is singlehandedly increasing the trade deficit. Buy Yakima, proudly based in Eureka, CA and keep America working.

Brooklyn.