MtnHigh

Chad and I did a recon trip into the Gorge today (Monday). Everything is very thin. It still needs another day or two for the low elevation flows to set up. I drove around PDX mid day yesterday when the storm was kickin' it pretty good just observe the chaos. Tow trucks everywhere moving about like hawks picking out their prey. Eased my way over Sylvan hill on 26, weaving through the spun out carnage, ODOT trucks and jacked semis. Downtown was a ghost town. Plenty of free parking.

Cold temps are coming. The long discussions on phantom Gorge ice awaites. low-hi temp Fri - Sat ------ Sun ---- Mon ---- Tue PDX....... 35-45 25-40:tup:20-30:tup:15-30:tup:15-30:tup: Cas Locks 35-45 20-35:tup:15-30:tup:15-25:tup:15-25:tup: Hood Rvr. 34-44 22-35:tup:18-31:tup:16-26:tup:15-24:tup:

2nd floor private bedroom for rent in a pretty friggin nice 4 bedroom, 2 bathroom, updated and remodeled North Portland house. Living in the house are two working adults (M and F), one active and one just starting to be climbers. The house is in excellent condition with remodeled bathrooms, a remodeled kitchen, hardwood floors throughout, two living rooms (main floor and basement), laundry, WiFi and cable. Numerous transit options just a stones throw distance away. $450 rent plus a 1/3 utility share and a deposit. Thanks, Pete

Saturday was an awesome day to have breakfast in Government Camp. Based on the earlier weather reports Saturday was suppose to be a stellar day. A crew of us from PDX and Bend converged in the wee hours of the morning at T-line. There were sucker holes drifting overhead as we drove up the T-line road springing hopeful comments within the car, 'I bet it's clear just above T-line' 'It's only raining here, not further above' We got soaked just walking up to the main lodge from the parking lot. After sitting around the lodge for an hour or so watching the mist roll through better judgement prevailed. We headed down to the Huckleberry Inn for breakfast.

I've gotten my ass chewed off at work, but never a limb. Ouch

It has been too wet and too warm for much of anything to set up on Hood. I-Rock, NF, whatever. The temps forecasted for this weekend are not any better. Night time freezing levels above 10k. Be patient or climb on crap.

Mountain Soles PDX Mountain Soles A quick turn around might be a challenge. They typically take a few days to resole climbing shoes. 1623 SE 12th 503.236.0785 Tuesday - Friday 11am - 6pm

Mt Hood National Forest News Article And this came from a PMR member According to Doug Jones, USFS, as of a couple of hours ago both Cloud Cap and the Snow Shoe Cabin were intact, but we don't know if there is damage. Recall that the Rats tore out the log walls of the north wing of Cloud Cap several weeks ago; so the structure is vulnerable. The Forest Service wrapped both structures in foil and smothered them in fire retardant foam. Rumor is that at least one of the cabins at Tilly Jane is burnt, but I don't know if that is the TJ cabin, the American Legion cook shack or what.

My grandparents have a blueberry farm east of Portland. For 25 years they rented honey bee hives to pollinate the field. Two years ago they stopped renting hives because they noticed that during the budding season wild mason bees (plus some bumbles) where just as abundant in the field as the rented honeybees. The result has been a better 'fruit set' or pollination of the crop than in years past. Their berry operation differs from other PNW berry farms in that they have substantially reduced the use of pesticides over the past 5 years. Traditional fruit and berry operations rely heavily on pesticides. Their example is not based on scientific methods, but perhaps a correlation exits between local native bees and the use of pesticides.

Found a shirt at the Ozone on Saturday 4/26. Describe it and PM me.

I bought a '96 Passat TDI wagon 3 years ago for $6K. Put $3K of repair into the first year (it needed work). They sell for $7-10K depending on the condition. Mine gets over 40mpg. Great road trip car.

Maybe this will help keep cars on the road for a while Cultivating Algae Gallons of Oil Per Acre per Year Corn : 18 Soybeans : 48 Safflower : 83 Sunflower : 102 Rapeseed : 127 Oil Palm : 635 Micro Algae : 5000-15000

Hi profile rich guys pay big bucks to escort agencies because they keep their mouths shut. Staff and interns eventually spill the beans. Nothing is free.

Hood is a big soft pillowy pile of snow. I skied and slogged up the SS today. Good exercise and turns going down are great. The snow is so soft that crampons are almost optional on the Hog and above. My super late start probably had something to do with that. I was the last loper on the hill. For a mid week day the hill was busy. 10-12 climbers/skiers descended on my way up. A few but not all of them summitted based on the foot traffic. Recent posts expressed concern about avi conditions on the SS. I have never seen a slide or slide debris cross a SS route in many years of slogging up it, but we all know about the Mazama disaster, so SS slides do happen. Today while cutting around Crater's east side and heading up the SS W variation I noticed a consolidation or ice layer about 1'-2' down. At times the upper snow pack was breaking from it easily. All the while a number of climbers walked through those areas in the last couple of days, so the morel of the story is...YMMV. John, Rime is thick on the Crater and Devil's Kit choss on anything in the 50-80 degree range. I didn't go over to I-rock, but checking it out from the base of Crater, rime and snow (mostly snow) predominate on it. I saw no ice on it.

Thought about it, but it looked like the start needed protection and I left the rock gear back in the motel room.

Trip: Hyalite Canyon Date: 12/20-23/2007 Trip Report: Winter and I just got back from Hyalite. Ice conditions are excellent. The approaches are easy even though 12-18" of snow dumped on 12/20. Boot tracks lead to most of the climbs. We practically had the place to ourselves. 4-6 groups each day. Sunday was the only busy day (about 20 cars). During the holidays Montana State is closed, so all the students are out of town. The road is open, snow packed and accessable. 4x4s and snow machines packed down Thursday's dump by early Friday morning. We had no problems getting in with a front front wheel drive Passat with studs on all 4. A few climbs are wet: Mummy Cooler II lower 50' is wet, but very climbable Feeding the Cat is fat, but soaking wet. Bozeman is a very cool laid back town with great food and beer selections. Recomendations: Montana Ale Works: Scottish Ale (yes!), inexpensive pool, pricy but good food MacKenzie River Pizza: pizza,pizza, pizza! Cateye Cafe: Great breakfast food, cute waitresses Main Street Overeasy: Great breakfast food, family atmosphere The Leaf and Bean: Organic Costa Rica coffee is awesome Lewis and Clark motel. It's OK, but they only serviced the room once in 4 days. We must have unknowingly pissed them off. And now for the porn Mummy Cooler II The Scepter (bottom left of Mummy Cooler II on the right) Top ropable after leading MC II The Matrix Over Easy Genesis II Genesis I Curtains (Winter Dance above it) Approach to Mummy

Trip: Yos Valley Washington Column - Southern Man Date: 9/27/2007 Trip Report: Hear are some pics from a recent trip to the valley with Corvallisclimb. The weather was perfect after a system of rain(in the valley) and snow (above 7000') moved through on the day we arrived. We climbed Southern Man on Washington Column as a group of three with Ryan who we met on Dinner Ledge. The camp grounds and popular climbs are really packed this time of year. If you are heading down there have camp reservations, a back up plan or options of places to hide in the woods. Washington Column Southern Man is left of the prow Big rock Big Snoozer El Cap Meadow sun set Dinner ledge view p4 p5 p6 p7 Half Dome Lost Arrow Spire The full moon last week made for interesting night photography Natural moon light on Washington Column Gear Notes: Lots Nails and portaledges not required Approach Notes: Short Pizza and beer is only an hour away.

Friday night we pulled into Skull Hollow and got a site with a picnic table. In an attempt to hold the site we left a few camp items on the picnic table before heading to the Park the following morning. When we returned Saturday evening a plastic container full of stoves, fuel containers and camp kitchen supplies was gone. There was a large group in our site who returned to us the other items we had left behind, a water container and foam mattress. Over the weekend there were only a few climber groups at the camp. It was mostly occupied with semi-permanent residents with old school type hitch campers set up on blocks and hunters. I'm not advocating that one of the non-climber parties at the camp took our stuff, but rather that the usage of the camp seems to have changed. Hunters have used the camp for years, but the semi-permanent residents has grown. In hindsight leaving a container full of supplies at the camp was a bad idea. I wanted to leave a tent, but the one I brought had a broken pole. Play it safe and be selective on what you leave at that camp.

As typical of how American's deal with problems, everyone here wants to 'cut out' or eradicate the offending article. However, we should perserve the essence of Beacon and retain the loose block. What about finding a way keep the block in place safely? Glue, pins, bolts, bridges. You guys are masters at this stuff. It's like a loose tooth.

The climber who fell at Beacon is the brother of a co-worker. He fell ~20 feet when stopped to place his first piece. I do not know what route. He fell onto his torso, receiving broken ribs, a broken collar bone, a punchered lung, and a deep cut to his calf. No head injuries and nothing life threatening, just a bad beating.

sweeeet, ya luck bastards. Was just talking up Greybeard with a bud last night thinking that this hot weather may take it out for the season or perhaps melt it just enough so if we do get one more good freeZe....Yee haw.

Good call on the east Lab. Closer to the home base for most of us.

It's Drew's b-day mowran

I wonder if my electronic monitoring bracelet from the county will suffice?

Everyone has global warming on the brain, not Winter bags.