haireball

Bob Plumb made the second ascent of the Soviet Route on Bonanza with Dave Stutzman, back in '78 or '79. Plumb told me the rock was abysmal.

a figure-eight is certainly strong enough, but I believe the relevant issue is: how much braking force can I apply with a figure-8 device in rappel configuration? the short answer is: between 2 and 3 KN. this range has been confirmed in both European and American laboratory drop-tests numerous times over the past 25 years. for comparison, a hip-belay averages slightly under 2KN, and older Sticht-style plates average about 4KN. the munter hitch averages around 5KN. I have not seen drop-test figures on some of the latest generation belay devices with the v-notches. Neither the UIAGM nor the AMGA approves the hip-belay, or the rappel-rigged figure-8 for belaying the lead climber. You could probably get an "authoritative" answer to your question by contacting the folks at Rigging for Rescue, p.o. Box 399, Invermere, B.C. CANADA, VOA 1K0. Arnor Larson and Kirk Mauthner have some 25 years of independent drop-test data that they are pretty good about sharing. For some real fun & games, find a place to do some drop-testing of your own, and practice catching falls of factor-one and greater with an inanimate 150lb load. Gloves are advised if you try catching a high-factor fall on a figure-8 rigged for rappel.

sewn loops are for those who lack the intelligence and dexterity to tie knots - AMGA archives contain a European study done in the early eighties that found that, on average, approximately one-third of the impact force of any fall is absorbed by the tightening of knots in the belay system. I submit that falling on sewn slings adds needless shock-load to your belay. of course, this is only a significant issue if you actually fall now and then...

I've climbed on the cleaver south of Jeff Park Glacier - the rock is abysmal--genuine "dogturdite". The South Ridge is the preferable route. If you're competent on mid-5th-class rock, you can climb the west face of the summit pinnacle directly from the Red Saddle, avoiding the traverse across the top of the Milk Creek couloir. Otherwise, it's a couple of pitches traversing steep snow (or possibly ice), to reach the scramble route on the north ridge of the summit pinnacle. I've found the South Ridge more enjoyable earlier in the summer, when the scree is still under snow... [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

I own a few of their newer "iso-forged" carabiners, and like them so far. I've been very impressed with their latest belay device, which can be configured three different ways to vary the amount of braking force from "high-speed-rappel" to "stop-the-train-instantly". My general impression has been: highly functional gear at a very affordable price.

I fit the workout in wherever my schedule allows. this year, that's mid morning, between 8am and 10am. a couple of years ago, the only time slot I could consistently hit was 4am before work at 630. fifteen years ago, I had an office job where I would adjust my hours and take a two-hour lunchtime workout three times per week. another job required an evening workout schedule. I don't "schedule" cardio workouts, so much as I just go out and play hard two or three times a week.

Peter - I was with Cilley when he climbed Pivotal Moment. It's probably only worth doing if you can complete the initial roof sequence to reach the crack. I couldn't... my personal favorites include Bo Derek and Bondage on Givler's Dome; Vertebra, Devils Fright, and the Nose of Jello Tower on Castle; Easter Overhang and Black Widow on midnight for off-width connoiseurs... Dru - "Vertigo" is the other chimney route next to Empire State. Henry's route is named "Bombshelter". I haven't tried Carnival Crack, but finally got around to taking a close look at it a few weeks ago, and it begs for an attempt... [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

I've used contrasting-colored thread (weave it into the sheath with a fine sewing needle) to mark rope middles for over twenty years. the mark lasts for the life of the rope (defined as "until the sheath wears through"), does not affect rope-strength, and , yes, you can feel it in the dark, and it doesn't hang up in brakes or pulley systems. yes, it takes a couple minutes longer than tape or marker, but it is far far superior

the question raises several issues, which I will attempt to address separately: 1)communication with a partner you can neither see nor hear - I agree with the radio folks. Although I rarely carry a set of radios on personal climbs, I've found them indispensable on mountain rescue missions, where a coordinator must communicate accurrately with as many as three belayers/rope-handlers on raise or lower 2)how to know if your partner has fallen? occasionally, you may not be able to! I have been on both ends of unrecognized crevasse falls, where the partner remaining on the surface of the glacier, who had been out-of-sight when their ropemate fell through, continued moving (slowly lowering the fallen climber deeper into the crevasse!)until he/she could see what had happened! This was particularly unnerving the one time that I was the one who had fallen through! 3)on rock-climbs, the question that usually arises, is whether or not to take the leader off belay. whether or not to begin climbing is easily resolved - if the leader has used up all the rope and is still pulling, you have to start climbing. either your partner has you on belay, or he/she needs to move further to reach a stance, but in either case, you have to start climbing! when I cannot communicate with my leader, I simply keep the belay on until all the rope is gone, at which point, I dismantle the belay and commence climbing, moving no faster than the rope (thus allowing no slack to multiply). hope this low-tech-conservative-commonsense approach helps. it has served me well for over thirty years of technical climbing...

worth noting, in case you're unfamiliar: Gearexpress.com = Starved Rock Outfitters same company; and they do have a good selection of deep-discount climbing gear. I've also had good experience with Sportextreme.com. I know about Barrabes, but have never ordered from them. but, as the man said: "nothing beats a pro-deal". I just this month received a FREE Mountain Hardware Ethereal Ice Parka in return for training one day per month with my local county mountain rescue unit... many volunteer groups have purchasing programs with gear manufacturers, and it surprises me that more climbers don't take advantage of these opportunities Second Ascent, 5209 Ballard Ave. NW can be a treasure-trove for a knowledgeable buyer... [ 03-10-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

On the subject of grade inflation: Having lived and climbed in Leavenworth since 1980, I can assure you that no one is inflating gradings. The truth is, the climbs are getting harder!!! Consider these true-life examples: 1) Jello Tower, south face: in the 1980-vintage guidebook, rated 5.7. I recall climbing this unroped in my running shoes, and thinking the rating to be fairly accurrate. and yet, a couple of summers ago, I led this same route in sticky scarpa slippers, after sewing it up with stoppers, and backing off to ground at least once to rest. The route had obviously increased at least a couple of number-grades in difficulty!! 2) Canary: this was the first rock-climb I did when I moved here, at the invitation of old-time local Mike Crosswaite, who, in those days,had a pizza place in the building now occuppied by Gustav's. Crosswaite insisted that this classic was the finest route on Castle Rock, worth doing even if it WAS raining that day. He graciously offered to lead the second pitch, warning me that the initial moves were "exposed & tricky". I remember thinking it a good solid 5.8, in raingear and mountain boots. And yet, within the last couple of years, I was sketching the finishing moves of the first pitch. No doubt whatsoever, the climb was definitely harder. 3)Mr. Clean: in October 1981, an old girlfriend whom I shall graciously decline to name returned to Leavenworth to complete the task of dumping me.We took an afternoon at Castle whence I led Mr. Clean (in alpine boots, it was cold), and she responded by launching herself out of Catapult and nearly breaking her arm. Yet last summer, in far more appropriate footwear I was unable to lead Mr. Clean without pulling on two pieces! 4) Cocaine Crack, Icicle Buttress: the first time I led this climb, in 1983, in EBs I complained to my partner that it was a "giveaway 5.10". Last summer, in modern sticky shoes, I fell off following the same pitch. Obviously,the climb had grown MUCH harder over the years. Plainly, all of these climbs are several orders of magnitude harder than they were twenty years ago! I can only presume that such evolution is occurring planetwide. Were I to return to Eldorado Canyon and repeat Bastille Crack (5.6 back in 1972), I'm certain that it would fully merit the 5.8 rating today's guidebook gives it. Twenty years from now, I hope to be able to climb Saber at a 5.10 rating...

you spelled it right - when French-trained guides introduced this item to AMGA Yanks back in the early eighties, they specified five meters of 7mm cord. I dropped to 6mm, but still hold to the 5 meter length. Chelan County Mountain Rescue uses 8mm, but they are tying prussiks on fat ropes (11mm+). I usually climb on twins, so I prefer smaller diameter cordellettes. I haven't gone smaller than 6mm because I want the loop strength to be adequate for runner/anchor use.

I love the dead-lift. It recruits more muscle-groups than any other lift. I haven't read the article in question, but I wouldn't count on a written description of the lift to help my form anyway. I suggest using an experienced spotter (preferably experienced trainer) if you're new to the lift. Have him/her critique your form, and work light until your form becomes habitually perfect. (maybe a couple of months...) This is critically important, because I've found that on an unfamiliar lift, sometimes the CORRECT form doesn't FEEL correct at first. The squat is an excellent case in point, since newbies often complain (when a trainer corrects their form) that they feel like they might fall over backwards if they do the lift w/ perfect form. takes some getting used to... My "home" gym has the power cage facing a mirror, and I use that mirror to monitor my form on deadlifts and squats. My favorite form "key" on both of these lifts is to watch hips & shoulders. If I see my hips rising faster than my shoulders at any point during the lift, I know I've got a problem.

KP - I am indeed out here - I get off on Tuesday at noon next week, with no requirements until Sunday. And I'm currently in better shape than last time... e-mail me! (I will you, as well).

pay attention to Al, everyone. Back in my pro-ski-patrol years, we documented interference with avalanche beacons even from digital watches! (hold the beacon in your other hand...) The only functional solution I ever experienced was to turn off EVERYTHING you have with you and keep the beacon as far away from batteries, compasses, etc. as possible. test & practice, and hope you never have to go "live". [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

try your college outdoor rec program. over the years I have been amazed at the quality of mountaineer sharing skills for free on "cooperative adventure" trips through college outdoor programs. seems like a substantial percentage of high-caliber climbers gravitate to teaching as a "day-job" (summers off, and lengthy winter breaks by arrangement) if all else fails, you can take it upon yourself to organize a co-op adventure to a place you've fantasized about; among the folks who sign on for such an adventure you're likely to find both partners and mentors...at the very least, some folks who share your ideals and ambitions...good luck!

so many tricks, and you want my favorite ONE? a hard choice indeed - * the "Kiwi-coil" (so-called because it was introduced at an AMGA training back in the '80s by New Zealander S.P. Parker) - as a tie-in for glacier travel or short-roping, utilizes the excess coiled rope as a chest-harness * the "Swedish Bowline" - very likely the variation mentioned above as being easy to untie after being loaded - incorporates a clove-hitch into the bowline knot so that when the knot is loaded, the loops of the clove hitch spread under load, acting as a shock-absorber inside the knot, and retaining slack inside the knot as well * the Prussik hitch and all its variants * the Munter (aka Italian Belay) hitch * the Frost knot - the key to tieing an ice-tool leash out of $3 worth of nylon web, that outperforms every factory-leash of my experience...

first-generation Chouinard Alpine Hammer, received as a birthday present in 1972 - it has been my favorite hammer all along, seeing use as a wall hammer as well as a third tool on ice. (the pick works great as a nut-tool, and for levering out pegs like a claw-hammer). I'm afraid its days as an ice-tool are numbered, though; of the the five original teeth on the pick, only three remain...

there was a photo of one in an e-bay ad last week, by a lady who wanted to know what it was... quote "could this be a piton?"... the ad title was something like "Unidentified tool" - she was wondering whether it might be some kind of specialty gardening tool... I didn't respond to the ad, but you might see if it's still there. Otherwise, keep an eye on garage sales. These often crop up in the PNW when new owners clean out previously owned basements and garages, and the new owners often don't know what they are... If you're willing to do some garage-sale and/or thrift store legwork, you can probably pick one up for a dollar or so...

Carolyn, you don't say how old your synthetic bag is, but my hunch is, its seen its useful life. most synthetics (I have little experience with the latest generation, but VAST experience with the classics like polarguard and hollofil and their variants). They seem to last for about three hard seasons (call it two annual cleanings), and they're shot. A good down bag will last forever (I had a twenty-year old down bag stolen at the Plaza de Mulas on Aconcagua once...). If you got it from a manufacturer like REI or North Face, with a bomb-proof warranty, return it. I had one buddy who returned his synthetic bag to North Face every other year - last I heard he was on his fourth bag for the price of one... Good luck! [ 01-05-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

I've used the same pair of molded cork superfeet (the custom $80.00 version, hot-molded to my foot) since 1987. I use them in my downhill ski-boots, and every pair of rigid mountaineering boots I have owned since that time. They were great until I dropped a sheet of 5/8 plywood on my right foot and broke my middle toe the year before last. Now the right one doesn't match my foot anymore... I haven't gotten around to replacing them yet, but... blah, blah, you get the idea. If you're going the non-custom route, I've had acceptable results with Superfeet, Spenco, Dr. Scholls - they all seem to help, and not much noticeable difference between them.

I got a good look at it this morning. From the road, it appears to be fully formed. Since rain is forecast for the rest of the weekend, I think I'll pass on walking to the base until things cool a few degrees.

what have you got in mind? I could be available for day-climbs in the Leavenworth area...

the funnel is in. I soloed the standard Hubba-hubba falls line on the 28th, and Jeff Ward, a guide for the latest guide concession in der worth soloed a line about 100' to the right. there was also a rope of 2 from Portland on the Hubba-hubba line, but there's plenty of room and enough features for two parties to climb safely on that line. As of today, there are at least four independent lines in, yielding 2+ pitches each. there has been some traffic to the base, so an approach trail is getting established. I used snowshoes both yesterday and today, saw other parties post-holing. pick your poison. ice is shallow, so you gotta hunt around a bit for screw placements - but that is changing rapidly.

I have a nice series of slides taken in 1982 in "the corridor of death" (NE Fork Kahiltna) - of a large avalanche dropping about 5000 vertical straight at the camera - it was one of those "nowhere to run, so I might as well film it" situations. The slide petered out about a quarter-mile short of the camera. There really isn't much to say... watch the weather, move FAST, get high on the rib as quickly as possible. The only safety in a place like the NE Fork is to minimize your exposure time.