haireball

fair enough, sir. I'd be the first to admit that folks can and do change and grow. I last saw Dick in 1986 in J-tree, and was thunderstruck to be treated so rudely by someone I had once had camp out on the floor of my home for the better part of a climbing season. If he has grown up in the meantime, I salute him.

"al-el-u-jah" - Dwayner can probably translate...

beers for Dru & Scott P at the megafest!!! you guys are good!!! one of my all-time favorite legend encounters was when a Polish acquaintance, a local electrician who braved the Iron Curtain in the trunk of his girlfriend's (now his wife) car, phoned me up and invited me to Gustavs for a beer with an old climbing buddy of his from out of town. Andre's British friend "Chris" was in Seattle on business, and was making a side-trip to 11worth to visit him. Andre wanted a few climbers to make "Chris" welcome. I was somewhat tongue-tied & awestruck that evening to find myself swapping yarns at Gustav's with Mr. Chris Bonington!!!

I've watched the old geezer Donini flash problems that Dick thrashed on, and I witnessed guys like Tim Wilson and Pat Mcnerthney cruising stuff that Dick would not attempt because it could not be "led with a top-rope". I'll grant that Dick was a strong boulderer, and tenacious as hell, but "best" climber? Hell, even on stuff I could lead, I never saw him climb beyond waist high on his pro.

Sean Halling - yer a man after my own heart! It wasn't so many years ago that I kept my rock rack updated by simply cruising the classic test pieces on Mondays. What with the shift to bolted routes, that's no longer a reliable source of booty... and I've found over the years that if I can restrain myself for a year or so after some wonderproduct hits the market, that once the furor dies down, even the hot name-brand stuff can be had for less than half-retail if you're willing to do some research. "cheap" does not necessarily mean off-brand or poor quality... that said, however, I think the best deal I ever got was the $4 baseball pants that I scored at a Seattle Goodwill Store back about 1985. They look goofier than hell, but after a couple of El Cap routes and several expeditions, not to mention years of cragging, I have come to the conclusion that they are inde-fucking-structible. best climbing pants I ever hope to own...

another plug for Endurance; and Everest-The West Ridge...this one still inspires me - that Unsoeld and Hornbein could succeed on this route in '63! coupla tough mothers! and one I found just recently (written for teens, which means my oldest son really found it) - The Broken Blade is the true story of a young man whose voyageur father injured himself cutting firewood, so the boy signed on in his dad's place--what the hey, I'm a sucker for those "coming of age" stories...

I've been on both. I much preferred Washington. The North Ridge is a fun scramble - good solo. The West Ridge is a good mid-fifth class route if you and a partner are comfortable with loose rock (there's a fair bit of what we called "cascade dinner-plate" stacked on it). I have not done the West Face, but to my recollection, it was reputed to be harder than 5.6. Thielsen is a helluva long drive for not much of a climb, but might be worth a day side-trip if you're headed for Crater Lake or points south... Have fun! [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-21-2001).]

you wanna talk localized, Will? Who ever heard of Pete Cleveland or Dennis Horning unless you made the trip to Devils Tower & the Black Hills? trivia quiz - who the hell were Herb & Jan Conn?

in which state? the state of ignorance???

my climbing partners have all heard it... and, it's not "ironic" it's "serendipitous" its awful quiet out there...

in the words of the immortal Paul Jakubowski, who used to hand out the van window and howl at the top of his lungs at rednecks: "big truck, small penis!!!"

and expensive gear doesn't. yeah, right...

ok, guys, have it your way. I met Twight a few years back, and he was quite pleasant in person. I just don't care for his writing - never have. And having sold two runs of my own book back in the seventies, and written an article or two along the way, I DO consider myself equipped to critique writing. He can climb any way he wants, and so can anybody else. But I cannot condone his putting down all who don't play the game his way. Stump, Fisher, Childs (both Geoff and Greg), Donini, Tackle, Lowe (Alex), Hargis, Kearney, - and yes, Stutzman - these guys are/were all fun to hang out with. and guys - we were using honey and butter in squeeze tubes before gu's inventor was out of diapers. get real... anyway - I don't follow the guy's climbs - much less critique his climbing style. His writing sucks.

I've seen Zimmermann Boordbroecher's signature on a few summit registers... does that count?

having once met Wickwire in person, I can assure you that, face to face, in person, for pure egotistical rudeness, he can't hold a candle to Richard "Dick" Cilley. Allow me to elaborate. A generation ago, Paul Christiansen and Michael Crosswaite located a gem of a crag on the Icicle River with a private beach some twenty vertical feet above a deep quiet eddy. Christiansen took a machete and cut a trail through the brush from the road to the crag, leaving the ten feet of brush next to the road undisturbed. A private spot for cooling off when the canyon became too hot for climbing was thus born. Some thin cracks on the overhanging wall above the beach entertained us between dips. A year or so later, enter Mr. Cilley to the Leavenworth scene. Always prepared to show hospitality to furriners, we locals brought Mr. Cilley to the lovely spot. Though unimpressed with the aerial/aquatic resource, Mr. Cilley found the wall irresistable, and managed to tick off the easiest of the cracks, which had, up to that time, repulsed local luminaries including Yoder and Cunningham. That wasn't such a bad thing. We were happy to see anyone succeed on these problems. But several months later the jerk had the chutzpah to publish the location in Climbing Magazine, in an article that spared no insult to the locals who'd graciously shared that resource with him! I was disgusted that the so-called "editors" at Climbing would stoop to publishing such a piece! That deed firmly established Mr. Cilley as "Crazy Cock" among the long-time resident climbers of Leavenworth... and changed the name of "the swimmin' hole" to "Muscle Beach". uuurrrrpp!!!

lemme see, now, if I read this correctly, the purpose of this thread is to plumb the depths of crudity,!?! very well, morons! I urinate on this thread! I print the posts and use them to scrub the fecal remains from my anal orifice! I dine on sauerkraut and black beans and pass gas in your I-tent! and I leave you with this gem acquired in my mis-spent youth. Without apology to Robert Service, I give you The Korn-holing of Dan McGrew A bunch of the boys was a whoopin' it up in one o' them Yukon halls; while the kid that handled the music box was steadily scratchin' his balls. The Faro Kid had his hand on the box of the Lady known as Lou, while there on the floor, on top of a whore lay Dangerous Dan McGrew! When out of the night which was black as a bitch, and into the din and the smoke came a shaky old prick, just up from the crick, with a crusty old load in his poke! He elbowed his way throught the flea-bitten crowd with his hand at the crotch of his pants, why, he looked like a man with a dose of the clap, and the first stage of St. Vitus'dance! His britches were split, and covered with spit, and it looked like the white of an egg. His balls hung down low, and they swung to and fro every time he moved a leg! His face was as red as a baboon's ass as the passion within him burned, as he rolled out his cock to display to the flock, every asshole squirmed! Then the lights went out, and I ducked to the floor as the stranger sprang in the dark! His aim was true, and sparks even flew as his donniker found its mark! With might and main and screams of pain, a voice was heard in the room. There were sighs and groans and farts and moans and six bodies lay stacked in the gloom. Then the lights came back on, and the stranger arose with a satisfied grin on his pan, and there on the floor with his asshole tore lay pore old kornholed Dan!!!

excuse me, but, don't you mean marc "twit"?

hey crazyjz - you actually called Richard Cilley "Dick"? Back in '81 when I met him, he INTRODUCED HIMSELF as "Dick Cilley". Gospel truth, man! He told us to call him "Dick"! I didn't know he went by any other name, other than the one Paul Christiansen gave him..."Crazy Cock"... [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-19-2001).]

very nice, Tricky, and welcome! ok, now, Bjorn, Tim, To-the-top, anybody home?

somebody please define "legend"? so far I've seen work colleagues, drinking buddies, and my eldest son's godfather all named as legends in this thread... reminds me of a time in Camp 4 when a guy walks over to our picnic table, introduces himself as Roman Dial, & says: "I saw the slideshow you produced for the Alaskan Alpine Club Rescue Fund" - and my ropegun partner who could climb circles around me gets all quiet and strange, and after mr Dial leaves, he looks at me weird and says "wow, I didn't know I was climbing with somebody famous" -- to which I replied "neither did I"...

can you clarify what you mean by "access to a decent-sized city or town"? my initial reaction is that Bishop, CA and Moab, UT, while very attractive (I lived in Bishop for a while in the eighties), don't meet that criterion. I'd give E-burg serious consideration. Wilson/Jacksonhole is my childhood country, and it hardly meets your criterion of reasonable real-estate prices. Consider Wenatchee, WA, though - the bottom is dropping out of the real-estate market there right now, so there's no better time to move in... the housing market is glutted- I'm even considering picking up another rental or two if the prices get much lower. Both E-burg and Wenatchee appear to meet all your criteria except for the <5000. But Dryden and Peshastin are both under 1000... or if you're really cheap, Waterville... If you get down to seriously investigating Bishop, look up John Fisher (used to own PSOM), Alan Pietresante (Buttermilk Mountainworks), and/or Gordon Wiltsie (no introduction necessary) - these guys are generous and helpful to a fault

being an income-challenged individual who doesn't own a roof-rack system worth more than the car I drive, I use old ropes to lash things on my gerry-rigged cartop rack. I've also turned them into tree-swings for my kids, "Bachar-ladders" for upper body training, tow-ropes for yanking careless drivers out of ditches, lashing up tree-house elements, clotheslines - you name it. I've even unravelled short sections to use the fibers for fly-tying... [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-16-2001).]

as of this evening, KOHO has usfs officials reporting that the Victoria Creek fire (on Mt. Cashmere) has grown to 150 acres, and the Fourth of July Fire (on Icicle Ridge) is holding at about 350 acres. Icicle Canyon is on Level #2 evacuation, which means the canyon is closed to recreationists, although residents have not yet been evacuated. Stay tuned - the forecast is hot/dry with increasing winds for Thursday & Friday.

Matt, I was there yesterday - no snow, and the closest water is the restroom on the top of Washington Pass. Blue Lake is farther from the col than the col is from the highway.

I don't mind missing my turn if it comes up on a day when I'm out playin'..., but we gotta figure a way for folks to rotate back in after we've missed a turn (or just wait for the rotation to come around again...) and, yeah, if you're not on the published rotation, and you want to get in on the fun, just add yourself to the end of the list! it's not as if anyone can, or wants to, stop you from playing.