hakioawa

I think this is a 5:1

I'd prefer to do it an a day. Ski down have have and in B-ham for lunch. But its not in the cards. I'm just trying to get an extra couple hours of sleep.

What/wher are the best/highest camps (above 7,000') on the coleman deming route? Thinking about next weekend.

No question, a BIG cam. The dynamic forces caused by a nut and cam are just about the same (it depends on the cam angle and the angle of the nut). But if the flake shifts, there is a much greater chance a cam will open up and hold the fall. A nut will likely pop.

Anyone been up to Forbidden lately? How is it looking? How is the Road? Making plans for this weekend, so recent beta is useful. Thanks.

Scott, To answer your question, no. I don't use it for a personal anchor. I used to, but it sketches me out a little too much. But I'm a wimp.

True, however this is not the issue here. With a normal daisy if the sticking blows you have a slightly weaker normal runner (kinda like a sreamer). But with the metolius easy daisy if a single piece of thin aluminum blows the entire this thing goes all at once. I guess I just don't need the infinite adjustment when free climbing very often. Or the adility to "reel" youself in frequently. Its probably fine as a backup, but I do not think it is safe as your only piece. If 300lbs is correct (and I think it is) I think a 10" fall would blow it apart. Its cool for the right use though!

Only 36% gay! I figured anyone who sleeps next to guys once a week (in a tent) and likes to tie himself to other men would surely rate higher.

I have one. They are great for aiding buy I don't uses them for anything else. As I recall the strength rating is something like 2 or 4 kN and the metolius warning is pretty direct. Warning All Easy Daisy Users: Daisy Chains should be used for body weight applications only! Do not use as your sole attachment point. Always back them up with full-strength attachments. Do not use as a runner or sling. Do not belay off Metolius Aiders or Daisies. I read that while hanging one one from a single bolt cleaning a sport anchor. Kinda freaked me out. I bet they wouldn't hold body weight under a fall factor of greater than 0.5

Patriot act made criminal

I've heard about an alternative decent route from forbidden. I'm doing the west ridge again in a couple weeks and would like to avoid downclimbing and rapping the gulley. Are there better routes?

Outerspace and gilvers crack. Good times. Saw lots of

When a guy (in front of you) pulls out his texas prussiks following outerspace while a storm is brewing!

just a thought. Obviously this won't work if you belay long ice pitches, but why on two 8mm 35m ropes. Or actually 1 34m and 1 36 meter? Tied into both. That way if someone goes in and is held by the other the shorter rope takes the weight. The second rope can then be used to haul. I guess a helfed 70m would work too. BUt the person tied int the middle would have a bigger rope cluster f!@# hauling and may not be able to untie. Note I've never tried this but it seem like it would work. But if you are comfortable only 20m apart I think a single 60m into thirds would be the best choice.

There is a good post on fish products web site about this very issue. Check out http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/techweenie.html go to the "Rope Stuff" section and search for " Rope Life". There is some good data from the Black diamond testing lab. In a nut shell the test engineers conclusion is: My Conclusions and Recommendations. Rope strength does not appear to decrease with time. I don't trust old ropes because I do not know how the elastic properties change with time. This needs further research. Chris. Chris Harmston Quality Assurance Manager/Materials Engineer BS. ME. Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. 2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124 phone: 801-278-5552 So what I take away from that is that is your gear is good (e.g. 1/2" bolts in good granite) or you are talking about low fall factor scenarios (e.g. TR) the rope is plenty strong. Climb all you want.

Anyone know what mileposts the trail heads for Eldorado and Boston Basis are? Thanks

Having taught a bunch of mounties how to place gear (yes I admit it). Here is how it usually goes. student: Oh I'don't need cams. Passive gear is bomber. And cams walk. And they are expensive and they are hard to place yada yada yada. me: Oh so you don't want to borrow any? student: Oh, uh, sure can I use you 0.5 through 3 camalots and a set of aliens? These hexes sound like cow bells.

What have you done with the real dfa! He couldn't possibly know what a copper head is.

Yep, the basic class will be up at alpental this weekend. Nobody should be climbing the tooth. I think they were up there last week so that explais the hordes. http://www.mountaineers.org/climbing/Courses/BasicCourse.html

Amazon is taking pre-orders for thr new green book http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898868386/104-3150215-5965564 I put in a pre-order in feb when it said it was supposed to ship in march. Now it says its shipping in june.

Go to a place called url=http://www.fiberlay.com/]Fiberlay[/url] and et yourself some polyester resin. You will have to play with the ratios but I'd think 1 part paint 20-40 parts sand 5 parts resin. 5 galon buck will run you about $90 so you should be able to make about 40 gallons of the stuff from one bucket. Its used in boat building.

Its marketing. My guess is this is exaclt the same ski as one of the "men's" skis. A few years back K2 marketed the "Gyrator" a hard core mogul ski and the LTP "Ladies top preformer" a softer all mountins ski for women. The catch, they were identical skis. Only the colors had changed. The idea that women need a softer ski is generally false. The stifness of a ski is usually related to length as well. So if you weigh 100lbs you'll get a shorter (and softer) ski than a 200 pounder. Some women like to then need a ladies specific ski. So K2 put some flowers on 'em.

I'd suggest comming up to snoqualmie summit wednes day nights. There are always a bunch of tele skiers there. Some taking lessons, some racing, some (like me) just getting some turns in.

I may be avalible. Please let us know as soon as there are details.

Buy 100mm skins ant trim them. I've tried shaped and striat skins on shaped skis. The trimed ones work better.