specialed

I really don't see anything wrong with taking a few falls or even "taking" on a route thats at your max level or even a bit over your head. That's how climbers improve. You could just go out and climb 5.9 every time at the crags, and be comfortable and have no problems. But many people prefer to get on routes that are challenging and at the extend of their climbing ability, even if that means falling or hanging. I agree, if you're a 5.9 climber and you get on hard 10's or 11's then you might as well bring along the etriers and wall rack becasue you're gunna be aiding most of the climb anyway. That's pointless and you shouldn't try to fool yourself about it. There's also a difference between hanging before an extremely difficult section when your pumped to rest and figure out a sequence, and pulling on gear to bypass a section. The former might nor be "pretty" but your still doing the moves, the latter should usually be reserved for alpine situations only. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-18-2001).]

Everything I climb is sooo sick that I don't need to do any of that shit to make it more extreme. I am such a good climber that I am the best climber I have ever seen. I climb runout sketchfests in the rain and snow and rap off duct-taped skyhooks just for fun. I am so blah blah blah blah blah....

Yeah, but what about the battle cage?

I've found that La Sportivas tend fit those with narrow to medium width feet. And I concur, if Sportivas are good for your feet, they'll feel comfortable out of the box.

Good beta, dude. I have to concur. A good aid solo is Town Crier at Index. The first two pitches are free so that makes things interesting, but of course you can use aid on them. But good to experiment on. And there's a ton of fixed gear on that route with nothing too hard and its very straight forward and not too long. One question for willstrickland: do you back up your silent partner with a clove-hitch. Thats kind of one thing that pisses me off about the thing. The literature says that a climber shouldn't depend on it to hold a fall!? and should always back it up. Is that just for liability sake or what. I mean whats the point if you're not going to trust it to hold a fall. I've always backed it up anyway. but just asking your opinion.

The thunderdome! One night only... one climber armed with mountaineering axe and dynamic 9.7 rope whip, the other with double ice tools and foot fangs. Only one climber will be left standing, Battle to the death. (Monster truck rally to follow aftrwards)

In Montana there's a lick creek. But in Montanese one pronounces creek as crick. So its like lick crick. ha ha. I think there's also a bloody dick mountain on the Montana/Idaho border, which you pass if you're driving south on I-15. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-14-2001).]

The approach is way heinous. Plan on spending atleast a full day on it. Expect technical ice and possible open crevasses. No seriously, its like 30 minutes from car to the base and way chill. Probably want an axe and boots though for the last part though. Park at a shitty turnoff by mosquito infested pond about 1/4 mile east of visitors center. Bring extra supply of blood to replenish what the mosquitos take out. Good strategy is to fix to top of pitch four on the first day, getting most of the aid out of the way. Then go light and fast on the second day. But most of the whole thing is freeable except for Lithuanian lip and the pitch afterwards. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-11-2001).]

I'm at work and bored as shit. Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any cool trips planned for the weekend?

Right on! I plan to climb for many many years, ala Fred Becky and Gray Thompson, have many adventures in the mountains, and brush my teeth twice a day. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-08-2001).]

Dwayner, Karl Schneider was my old man's best friend and climbing buddy. Kind of sucked ass when he died in Peru. My old man quit climbing seriously after that, which also sucked. Maybe you knew him, his name is Don Meath. Anyway, just thought I'd ask. -P

My old man used to climb and guide with Donini for Leavenworth guides. I spent half my childhhod hanging out with those goofballs in Leavenworth. I probably met all you guys when I was a kid, or atleast you probably know my dad.

Well you stated your problem righ there dude, you don't go to local sport crag and flex and pose wear tight lycra and throw wild dynos and heal hooks on the routes you've got wired. If anything will attract the Prana/Ropegun pseudo-climber babe set that will do it. Your just not being superficial enough that's your problem. And while climbing might not be the number one babe magnet in the world would you really want to spend time with a girl who doesn't climb?

whats a "non-climbing" vacation. I've never takin one of those. All I know is Horne Lake, Vancouver Island's premier limestone sport crag is closed for logging.

Ooh wow! What's the cornice lookin like up at Jem Lake Coulior on South Trapper - for Tuesday of next week, say 10 a.m. I don't want to hike all the way up there just to be dissapointed.

Nah, I'm going to atleast make it to the bar.

How crowded is Leavenworh going to be this weakend since the weather's supposed to be shitty over here!?

You gotta miss the Gallatin Green.

what does that have to do with being a bone? that kind of sounds like when we used to go hooky-bobbin back in Montana. You go to a iced over road and hang on to the back of your buddy's truck while he drives, and "ski" along the road. Completely sober, of course.

what the hell is a "lambone" anyway?

I just saw it from hw 20 last weekend. Spotty snow but there is some. Boots gaitors good idea. But definitly looked accesible.

Rapping down from Flathead Buttress in Blodgett (in the dark) I sidestepped a slew of dinner plate-sized rocks that had collected at the lip of the ledge we were on. I rapped down succesfuly to the next ledge. Just as I went off rappel and walked across the ledge to find the next rap station. I heard frantic yelling from above and in the next nanaosecond the cascading crah of those big-ass rocks smashing into the ledge I was on - fortunately a few feet to the right of where I was standing. Turns out as my partner went to rap he knocked those rocks off the ledge. They missed me but landed on our ropes - all of the slack which wasn't being used on the rappel was sitting on the ledge. The rocks chopped our ropes to bits, it took us like 200 rapps to get down!, but it very well could have been me. Lesson learned: trundle loose rocks before you rappel (if your in a remote area like we were).

I mean icicle canyon.

I scored two #2 camalots and a blue metoli on spaghetti sauce in index canyon. The gear was sitting there placed on the route, and noone was around!?

Its not like Outer Space is some lofty bastion of trad climbing or something. Its a non-committing afternoon romp that requires a small rack. You all should go to Blodgett Canyon, Montana to experience the real deal. Anyway, I heard Boving died soling some route in Tieton canyon or somewhere.