rat

For actions above and beyond the call of duty, we need "General Caveman" and "Major" Pain-in- the-ass AlpineK. I am bored in a real Rat Hole. If only you knew!

Hey Beck, Did you like the little slideshow? Did he sell you a little Swiss Sew on patch for you pack? Do you still ski like shit? Go hang your ass off a seacliff in a diaper.

what kind of name is rolf? i thouht that's what happens when caveman drinks too much.

[ 02-01-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

it's a long shot. does anybody out there have any stubai f.k.w. picks just lying around?

cappellini, check your messages.

and did i say steamboat rock is south of coulee city? i'm a fricking eejit. it's south of electric city.

quote: Originally posted by rat: the rock can be scaley and friable due to its proximity to the basalt. I said that? What was I thinking! My little rat head is way to close to my rat ass. That doesn't make any goddamn sense. The plutonic rocks at Butte are scaley and friable, and they are hundreds of miles away from the Columbia River Basalts! The granite at Banks Lake are part of an Eocene intrusive series which also includes at least four generations of dike emplacement. The scaley and friable nature of the massive rocks is probably due to weathering, post-emplacement tectonism, and hydothermal events associated with later acidic igneous rocks. While my earlier assumption regarding the CRB sounds good, I was premature to make this association. I apologize, and from now on my posts will only refer to ice conditions, locations of climbs, grades, how Dan Larson sucks, and a little rat ice-axe sodomy sex shit. [ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: rat ] [ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: rat ] [ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

brodyo, a friend and i did a worthwhile mixed route up the south face of "granite peak" years ago. you can see it if you look north from the picnic shelter(?) along the ruth creek road. a climb to do just before the road gets snowed closed because it's not worth skiing all that way.

offwidth climber, the columbia river island you mentioned is called "turtle island" and it has lots of bouldering potential. it is ringed with old "no trespassing" signs (owned by the department of fish and wildlife and has fish spawning/rearing facilities on the southwest end) so we were pretty skittish when we bouldered there. lots of folks party on the beaches there without any problem though.

max, i agree with your take on the entiat boulders but they were convenient when i used to work there for the usfs. i suggest that anyone who goes should take a mountain bike since there are some fine trails upvalley if the bouldering doesn't meet your expectations.

matt,i'll amend my pessimism just for you since you seem desperate for pain. there is probably some ice at the "millenium wall" near snow creek wall. there is a short pillar formed across the creek as you head up toward the eightmile lake trailhead. the cirque below the cannon mt. couloir also holds a few moderate lines if you want to do the approach. there are also two routes up rat creek but access is across private land so you're on your own. avy conditions probably won't work in your favor in the latter two areas. also, as other folks have said tonight, there is ice up near nada and snow lakes if you're willing to shut your pie-hole and get off your ass. at least two climbs were done near nada lake in the late 70's-early 80's. just noticed the photo of limestone near metaline falls. where there's limestone, there is often ice. anyone have any info? i have been past china bend, another limestone area along lake roosevelt, in the winter and not seen any ice. puke blood,ratfuckjingusdog [ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

thanks for the info. i use the delorme map cd's for work and they come in handy for planning backcountry trips when i don't have the usgs quad map for a particular area. sitting at the computer is definitely not as fun as drinking beer over a large paper map. sounds like the canadian software isn't worth the cash.

entiat boulders are located on the right side of the road just prior to brief.

Man, I just don't have a clue!

seems like we need a rat#1 and a rat#2 on this site. i prefer to use warm lard from rendered pig heads.

quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Rat,Don't you know a little about dry tooling? dry tooling? hell no. you think i'm going to shove an ice tool up my butt without giving it a good lube job first? i usually give my tools a healthy coating of vasoline first, that way they slide in and out real easy.

do any of you use any of the various cd-rom map products available for parts of b.c. and alberta? likes, dislikes, worth the $?

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

dbb, the granite at banks lake is located near steamboat rock state park just south of coulee city. there has been a fair amount of development by idaho and spokane climbers, both trad and sport. the rock can be scaley and friable due to its proximity to the basalt.

there is good sandstone bouldering at larrabee state park and a few other locales south of bellingham. mt. erie, near antacortes, would also be a place to check.

"the polar circus" was kind of a cool canadian publication in its day but i think it went belly up or was folded into the caj.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

lots of skiing has been done on peaks along hwy. 97 but the best runs require a snow mobile or some extra effort (road skiing). check out miller pk., iron mt., the three brothers, navaho pk., and wedge mountain. never skied on diamond but i hear that you need to really watch out for the talus.