Mike_Gauthier

i've posted some info about the route conditions under the thread, "ski the emmons"... if you're going with a novice, bring lots of ice screws and pickets... the route is in great shape, however it's VERY hard and icy. if you're not focused on the summit, you can probably have an excellent time playing in crevasses around emmons flats and on the corridor. lot's to do, very few (if any) people. mike btw, if you like ice climbing, there are HUGE ice walls in many of the crevasses and along the edge of the corridor. very cool looking!

we flew past the mowich face a few times yesterday... i'll have to agree with lowell, the climbing on the route looks TERRIBLE! there is VERY little snow and what ice there is, is covered in rock and debris. i've climbed "mowich face" routes on a few occasions in the fall, usually october. at those times, they were in EXCELLENT shape. nice ice, cool temps, little snow to mess with. this year however is different. we've had a VERY dry summer and the mountain looks like a dirty snowball. i suggest waiting for a few snow storms to make the route and your trip more appealing. mike

i wouldn't recommend skiing or boarding the emmons glacier route at this time... there is very little soft snow. the climbing, however, is still GREAT! the route is as direct as it was in early july, however, it's very hard and icy now. there are a number of crevasses to negotiate between camp schurman and 10,500 on the corridor. we found them easy and rather straightforward to cross as of last saturday. six folks also summited on sunday. other than that, no one else was on that side of the mountain. if you get sidetracked, look for a good option nearby, there should be a few. after 10,500, follow your instincts and any "faint" reminders of the summer route, you'll make the summit if you've still got your legs and lungs... be ready for lots of french technique, ice, hard snow and very cool crevasses and ice cliffs. usually speaking, self registration begins at paradise after oct 1 or so. more to come on that. good luck climbing, mike

like offwhite, i too dismissed radios for quite some time. now, however, i use them when necessary and would say that they are damn helpful and convenient... i bought the cheapest pair at Fred Meyers for $35 and they work GREAT!! don't waste your money on anything fancy b/c as i've found, they get dropped from time to time... regarding climbing with someone who is nearly deaf... i have NO experience here... why though, do you stick with it if this person can't admit the facts about the dilemma?, "yet its obvious he doesn’t "accept" it as being a medical problem." moreover, "Its already proven to put us in some potentially dangerous situations... Communication while climbing is becoming more and more of a struggle." jeez caroline, sounds dangerous to me... forget about offending him and looking silly... think of your own ass. (hell, i climb with a helmet on at smith rock which many would consider silly.) it sounds to me like you need to have a conversation with him off the rock. good luck mike

hey radon, i'm sure people with disabilities really appreciate the fact that you're mocking them so that you can get your beast in the backcountry. and what a way to honor our vets. though there is a bit truth to your jest (ie, service dogs are allowed in the backcountry), i would say that you're not entirely accurate. you could be ticketed regardless of a dog vest. the magistrate will ask you to PROVE that you're a qualified dog handler/instructor. a vest on a dog just isn't enough if someone smells bull shit. and i don't think they'll take kindly to people who abuse that system. while you're at it, you can also make a fake handicap sticker to hang in your car window. then you park wherever you like. or perhaps, you act like your pregnant to get the "expecting mothers" parking slots. regarding dogs on leashes, even in the winter... they still bark, and they still scare a lot of people. let's let the lamas roam free, they spit on humans, scare horses, and stomp dogs... and when you're sick of the animal, you can make them into HC... hey estivate, you have my vote...

before any one gives me too much hell. it's LIGHTNING!!! i hate typos...

i've been asked a number of times, what happened with the lightning. david simpson at the JH Guide did a good job recounting our adventures. thankfully weren't part of the NPS morning report or accidents in american mountaineering. regarding the "teton post" a few weeks ago. i want to thank those who recommended irene's arete and other climbs in the park, the advice was great... Trio recounts harrowing incident 250 feet below the Teton Range’s highest summit. By David Simpson Jackson Hole Guide Along with their memories of standing briefly on the summit of the Grand Teton last week, Fletcher Brinkerhoff, Mike Gauthier and Dave Schwietert have a more tangible souvenir from their climb of the Tetons’ highest peak — holes fried in their clothing by lightning. The three experienced mountaineers — who hail from different ends of the country and traveled to Jackson Hole to climb together — were caught in a storm a few hundred feet below the peak’s 13,770-foot summit last week. The weather seemed questionable from the start of the day, and the trio had decided against climbing their intended route, the more lengthy Petzoldt Ridge, opting for the quicker and more popular Upper Exum route. While there was some precipitation partway up the route, the climbers said there had been no hint of thunder or lightning until the three were just below the summit. Schwietert was following his partners up a short crack the first time he saw lightning — and he suddenly felt electricity course through his body. “We hear this pop and I see this orangish-blue light come down the rope,” he said. “And I said, ‘$#!@, I’ve just been hit.’ “ Schwietert didn’t know it then, but it was only the start of on ordeal defined by lightning. Schwietert, who works as a legislative assistant in Washington, D.C., for Wyoming Sen. Craig Thomas, suggested the group take a climbing trip this summer to the Teton Range. The three originally met during a climbing trip on Washington’s Mt. Rainier, where Gauthier is employed as the National Park Service’s head climbing ranger, and at a rescue course in Arizona, where Brinkerhoff lives and works for the U.S. Geological Survey. After a warm-up climb Monday, Aug. 19, on Irene’s Arete in Garnet Canyon, the trio decided to take a day off before attempting the Grand. They watched a severe storm hit the mountain Tuesday. “We said, ‘It’s a good thing we’re not up there,’ “ Gauthier said. That night, the group hiked to Garnet Meadows and camped in preparation for their climb the next day. Arriving at the Lower Saddle, a ridge between the Grand and Middle Teton, the group decided — based on clouds they observed at 6:15 a.m. — to try to climb the less-lengthy Upper Exum. “It wasn’t like we rolled the dice and said we can beat this storm up,” Schwietert said, adding that the group thought they might get wet, but didn’t expect lightning. Moving relatively quickly, the trio said they passed several other teams, but the first of several fast-moving storms began unleashing precipitation — hail and rain — a little less than halfway up the route. They decided to continue up, they said, partly because they saw blue sky behind the clouds and partly because retreat from that point on the route is difficult. The weather then improved, and the climbers continued up, but as they neared the summit, another storm cell brought heavier hail and then the first lightning strike, which Gauthier said he believes hit a large boulder about eight feet above the group. They all felt the strike. Gauthier described the feeling as being similar to sticking your hand in an electrical socket — magnified 10 times. “You feel your heart skip,” he said. Deciding the best course of action was to seek cover, the three climbers said they wedged into a crack that offered some respite from the hail about 250 feet below the summit. Situated one above another, they removed all their metal climbing gear and stood on packs and ropes to try to insulate themselves from the rock. “Not too long after that, it hit again, and that one really hurt,” Brinkerhoff said. “At first I said ‘That didn’t really happen,’ but then we started smelling burning hair.” Brinkerhoff believes the lightning hit wet rock nearby and traveled through the granite, taking the path of least resistance, which was across the crack through the climbers’ bodies. He thinks the bolt entered him and Gauthier through their wet, gloved hands, which were touching rock, and exited on the other side of their bodies at his shoulder and Gauthier’s upper back, where they have burn marks matching burn holes through three and four layers of clothing. “We were like little filaments,” Brinkerhoff said. Just after hearing a buzzing sound, a third bolt passed through their bodies, he said. Gauthier, who said he has had several near-death experiences while climbing and coordinating rescues, wondered about the group’s fate. “When you have a near-death experience, you think, ‘Is this how it’s going to be?’ ” he said. “We were thinking someone was just going to find us in the fetal position in this crack.” But he said he was impressed with how he and his partners kept their wits and decision-making ability about them despite the circumstances. The trio estimates they were pinned down for between 20 and 30 minutes in the crack, during which time they could see that it was sunny out over the valley. After the storm cell passed, the weather looked much better and — being such a short distance from the summit — the group quickly climbed to the top. “Climbers to the end,” Schwietert quipped. After spending two minutes at the summit, they began their descent, which they said was difficult in the wet conditions. The three climbers said the experience reinforced the importance of picking solid team members who can make well-reasoned decisions under difficult circumstances. “If you’re not on the mountain alone, who you’re climbing with is the most important decision you can make,” Gauthier said. “Honestly, this was a bonding experience for the three of us. We bonded as a team. We were there for each other. ... That’s something you take home and remember — along with your burned clothing.”

hey radon you're right, people break all sorts of rules. and the folks who write tickets don't usually shake down eveyone, (except for larry the tool, i wonder what he would do???, hey larry, you out there?) and you're right, kids can be a pain, adults can be a pain, boy scout leaders can be a pain, federal employees can be a pain. so what else is new? i'm just stating the facts about the dogs with vests. you could be busted, but you probably know this. anyway, do you really think that you're well behaved dog will change the opinions of the world?

thanks for filling me in offwhite.... we use other terms for HC... lips and assholes, floor scrapings, offal, tumors, eyes, beaks and claws, etc... too many of the rainier climbing rangers are vegetarians... so much so that we have vegi cutting boards, knives and cookware at camp schurman... HC might be hard to find in the rainier climbing ranger huts... thanks iain, it WAS a CLOSE one, too close... my partner and i have burned clothing for souvenirs... personally, i prefer nice photographic images. whoever said lightning never strikes twice was right... it hit us 3 times... and i thought helicopters were dangerous...

i hear you folks!!!... you're singing to the choir. personally, i'm not a fan of dogs or horses in the backcountry, in particular, i find horses disgusting b/c they pop just about everywhere, stink up the place, and are hard on trails... with regard to rainier however, i can honestly say that i've NEVER seen a horse in the park... i'm sure that a few horse lovers do take their beasts up the PCT. but for the most part, they are prohibited from many other trails (like much of the wonderland.) you may have a good point, but it's sort of a mute issue. north cascade and olympic parks on the other hand are different story all together... i've seen tons of the animals there. all this being said, jon is right. direct your comments to the Park Super: Park Superintendent Tahoma Woods, Star Route Ashford, WA 98304 i (MY OPINION HERE FOLKS) have a distinct feeling, however, that the park wont budge much on the issue... there is a LONG standing tradition of horses, wilderness, settling the west, etc... not to mention, many of the trails were completed with the aid of horses and other pack stock. at north cascades and olympic, they still use horses to resupply the trail crews and other backcountry related projects... so, you've got my personal opinion... i'm not into dogs or horses in the backcountry... but then i don't worry about it about too much b/c i just don't encounter them... i have a question for you folks, what's all this stuff about horse cock? i KNOW that i must be missing something... mike

sexual chocolate is right on... there is excellent bouldering and hundreds of trad routes (not one bolt in the entire place) in the area if you know where to go... it's all on private and and some blm land... the place is rather amazing... and it's virtually undeveloped. good luck locating it...

stefan 1. yes, you need a climbing permit for little t, even if you do it in a day. you wont have to hassle with getting a campsite, but you still need to register. 2. you don't need to register for 1 day ascents like the one your mentioned, or in other areas like the tatoosh. mike

i feel inclined to chime in on this one... "gov watch dog" is pretty much on the money about the self registration policies. there are no new rules about self registration that i know of. it's been the way it is now for the last 13 years that i've been here. basically, you can self register from october to may (unless the ranger station is open, then they ask you register in person). only during the summer does the NPS require you to get a permit in person (due to the limits at the backcountry and high camps). and to reveal something more, if you call ahead b/c you have some sort of issue with access, we will generally try to work with you to: 1. get a permit, 2. stay compliant and 3. have a safe and successful trip. it's not always possible, but we do try. sorry figure eight, but your information is also incorrect about parking... there are no new parking rules at paradise, i'm not sure where you're reading this. the only relatively new parking issue is that ALL rmi clients are required to take a shuttle with RMI (this has been the case for the past few years). so, if anything, the rmi clients might be a bit inconvenienced, but nothing has changed with regard to the public parking. anyway figure eight, what are you parking overnight for at paradise if you're not climbing, backpacking, camping or staying somewhere in the park? do you plan to store your vehicle in the paradise lot indefinitely? and mtn high, since i qualify as a "fed," would you prefer that i not post correct information on this site? ceratinly, i'm not lurking anywhere... mike

my sources say that the route is in GREAT shape for climbing and skiing... the inter glacier is a bit broken, but skiable too... they may some sections of ice up high on the emmmons/winthrop, and certainly conditions change daily, but the warm temps should make for great boarding/skiing on the upper hill. good luck, stop in at the schurman hut for up to date info. but i'd bring my gear if you're into it. good luck. mike

i'm not sure that your statements regarding the weather forecast are accurate or fair jtljohnson. the alabama team departed for liberty ridge early sunday june 23rd. do you have proof that the national weather service issued an extreme weather event for rainier's summit that morning? i seem to recall a great weather forecast for the week. forecasters say a lot of things, but it has been my experience that you can NOT trust any weather forecast that is more than 6 hours out around this place... moreover, i would certainly NOT trust any "forecasted" weather event on rainier's summit that is 4-6 days out... period! somehow, i don't believe the weather forecast on sunday morning called for extremely high winds on rainer's summit for friday afternoon/evening. did it really say that? the judgments about this teams' skill (and other teams that have had accidents) on this website are plain wrong. this team had all of the proper gear, they had trained on rainier before (they had even scouted out their descent route on a previous trip)and more importantly, they had climbed together on numerous other mountains and knew each others skills, strengths and weaknesses. this team did a great job under extremely tough circumstances... if they are guilty of anything, it is of climbing more slowly than they had intended... jeez, how many other teams have done that before??? does everyone here climb routes as fast as they think they can? the alabamans story is a great one. despite extremely desperate conditions, they managed to stay focused and do what it took to stay alive. imagine how tough that decision was to rappel into a dark, cold crevasse on ranier's summit col after climbing liberty ridge. this was done without water, on limited food and with very limited fuel... they spent 3 days in that icy hole; daily, they would reset the anchors for their rope and the wands that marked the crevasse edge. if that team could have moved, they would have, but the winds were just too fierce and there was no visibility to navigate. it was an amazingly tough and desperate call to make... they lived and as we all know, others have perished in the same damn area under similar conditions... my hat goes off to these folks, i'm so glad that didn't have pull 2 more bodies off the mountain. i see a lot of criticism posted on this site and i wonder what is to be gained over it?! correcting my grammar is one thing , making baseless arguments about other people's accidents is rude, disrespectful and misleading to others. i would ask that you find out what really happened before going off on other climbers. think about the mistakes you've survived, and how others would second guess your decisions if an accident were to occur. mike ps, i will say this, next years accidents in north american mountaineering should be a good read.

ah, the pendants speak! have you ever tented with a pedantic partner? here are a few of my favorites... “can i go with?” “where are you going to?” i once got a ticket from a cop that stated i was going "to fast." ever been there before? sorry for the typo folks; what do they pay for grammar checking on the internet anyway? i want to make sure your efforts are reported to the proper authorities... “no" what “maters.” (spelling check please?) mike

a lot has been said on this post, some good, some bull... but this statement is on the money..."Be aware of your climbing party. They are the difference between life and death. Pick them wisely!" i always say this, "if you're not climbing alone, then the most important decision you make is whom you are climbing with..." mike [ 10-21-2002, 08:25 AM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

there were two more fatalities today on mount rainier. that makes five in one week. additionally, there was another crevasse accident this morning involving three climbers and yet another climbing accident on the emmons glacier a few days ago. i'm not going to discuss the details of these individual accidents at this time, but i would like to notify all climbers that the upper mountain is quite firm and very icy. some may think that the cramponing is good or that the ice is nice, but it's very important to note that the climbing conditions are more unforgiving than normal, especially for this time of year. simple slips and falls that would normally be easy to self arrest are not so easy anymore. until the upper mountain softens up, i strongly recommend that climbers take the extra time to place running belays, move slowly over "moderate" climbing terrain and think about what a slip or fall might do to your entire team. what is moderate terrain? routes like the emmons and ingraham glaciers are moderate terrain and despite their grade II rating, these routes claim more lives than liberty ridge and other more technically challenging lines. i’m not trying to discourage or encourage climbers, i’m just putting out the word on what's happening. it’s hard up there, be careful. climb, climb, climb on, but do so thoughtfully and safely. mike

all this talk of death... and the skiing is SO good this year... i recommend the Ingraham Direct for a nice, early season descent. if you're really lucky, ski back to muir via cadaver gap, it's a great ride and makes for a better line than the cathedral gap (where most of the climbers ascend.) the route does have some crevasses, but you shouldn't have any problems if you wand your descent line and move quickly across the crevasses... (personally, i feel much safer crossing some crevasses on a snowboard than on foot.) 2. The Emmons/Wintrop glacier is another classic. when last i saw it, (2 weeks ago) it looked a bit icy up high, but things could have changed. if you don't get it this weekend, come back later in june... other routes (kautz, tahoma glacier) are a go, but try the ID or EW first to see if you like it. good luck, mike ps, the tatoosh is looking PHAT and AWESOME these days. we should have some great skiing/boarding well into july...

i feel inclined to add to this one. 1. about parking. yes, the nps frowns on camping the paradise parking lot (or any parking lot for that mater). though i've parked and camped in many a parking lot, i can understand why they discourage this practice... especially at paradise if you consider the winter road opening dilemma’s, snow removal, visitor safety around heavy equipment, etc... 2. if you need tips on how to camp in your vehicle and avoid the rangers, ask some Yosemite climbers how they pull it. certainly, enforcement there is FAR more aggressive than at rainier... 3. the fee program that supt jon jarvis is talking about refers to the entrance fees... not climbing fees. FYI, climbing fees are not park of the NPS fee demo program. what you are actually getting is a special use permit. the upside of this is that all of the money stays at rainier and funds climbing related projects, (hand sanitizers, blue bags, helicopter flights to maintenance the camps, ada shitters, and yes, climber/rescue dudes like me, halling and w... 4. as stated earlier, rmi does NOT have an exclusive toilet at muir. 5. i have NO idea why the wheel chair is in the muir outhouse. 6. i'll look into a baby changing station b/c we all know that some climbers cry, complain and whine all the time. mike

scott i took a look at the route yesterday and it appeared perfect. i'm not sure what the snow conditions were like, but the chute itself was filled in with snow/ice and the route looked quite climbable. there wasn't any exposed rock... should be good, but climb fast, and keep climbers right as you ascend the chute... mike

i just got this... it applies to the NPS fee demo, and doesn't mention the USFS... Subject: NAT. PARK FEE DEMO Author: Beth Goudey Date: 05/21/2002 11:20 AM For Immediate Release: May 21, 2002 THOMAS WORKS TO EXTEND SUCCESSFUL NATIONAL PARKS PROGRAM FEE DEMONSTRATION FUELS VISITOR SERVICE IMPROVEMENTS Washington, D.C. -- U.S. Senator Craig Thomas introduced legislation recently that would expand and reform the successful Recreation Fee Demonstration Program for the National Park Service. Under the current law, Congress allows up to 100 national parks to experiment with new or increased fees with at least 80% of the revenues to be spent at that site. In FY 2000 the Park Service raised $133.6 million from the fee program with a majority of the receipts going directly to fund critical repair and maintenance of visitor services. The Thomas legislation permanently extends the demonstration program across the 385 national parks, makes state and national park passes interchangeable and requires each unit to develop a business plan before full implementation. The current Fee Demonstration Program is set to expire October 1, 2004. Thomas, Ranking member of the Senate Subcommittee on National Parks, said the key to the program's success is to establish a fair fee and then show the public how the additional resources are spent to benefit the park experience. "The demonstration program has proven over the last 7 years to be worthy of making permanent," Thomas said. "The supplemental funds have been critical to parks who need the money to protect the resources and improve visitor services." "While it hasn't been without some controversy, studies have shown that at parks that have taken the lead, the program has been successful in meeting unmet needs for high priority projects without discouraging visitors," Thomas said. -more- According to a General Accounting Office (GAO) report Thomas requested in 1999, the Demonstration Fee Program has had no major adverse effect on visitation. Thomas said he is also interested in addressing some of the issues raised by other studies done during the demonstration period. For example, many visitors frequent national and state parks, but are not allowed to use state and national passes interchangeably. Under the Thomas bill, the Secretary of Interior in cooperation with state agencies, will be authorized to enter into revenue sharing agreements to accept state and national park passes at sites within that state - providing a cost savings and convenience for the visitor. Thomas said he is also concerned with "nickel and dime" circumstances in the parks where visitors can be charged multiple times for various activities such as boat ramps and back country camping. To prevent poor planning, under the Thomas bill each park would be required to perform a market analysis to consider benefits and services provided to the visitor, cumulative effect of fees, and feasibility of fee collection. The review would serve as a business plan, Thomas said, so that managers will avoid multiple fee structures. "Our National Park System is a tremendous bargain for families that visit them and that should remain as it is," Thomas said. "I'm encouraged by the early results of the fee program for giving the parks an extra boost that can be duplicated across the country in units that can support it." S. 2473, the "Recreational Fee Authority Act of 2002" was reported to the Senate Energy Committee. Thomas said he has already held consultation meetings with the Bush Administration regarding the bill. A copy can be found at http://thomas.loc.gov.

the road to paradise is open 24/7 again. fyi, the nps web site says that the white river road will open on may 17th. this may change to may 24th. heads up.

no word on when the road will open 24/7. it was closed again last evening... i'd like to guess on when it might, but, even i can't predict the logic of NPS road openings... no chains are required at this time, and unless there is a HUGE snowstorm, the road should open every morning around 8 am... when it does open 24/7, i'll post more information right away. mike

Update. the 24/7 road opening to paradise has been postponed due to the recent snowfall... i'll drop a note when i learn more. currently, it's snowing hard here at longmire.