Mike_Gauthier

Oh well. Good to see he's not wasting our tax dollars with superfluous verbage. More time for coffee waiting for the gate to open. HA! My office is in Longmire; I wait for the gate on my days off and weekends too. I saw the post yesterday and knew the questions would be forwarded to me. The park receives a lot of email so I don’t blame Curt for referring you to my response here, especially since the comments were all generated here. Public agencies have limited resources to serve a number of complex and competing needs. I know that the climbing rangers work very hard to serve climbers. I also know that the road crew works very hard to clear the road for everyone. RE: Registration. As stated, you can self-register for much of the year. If you need some extra help registering next summer b/c you’re coming in late, call us and we’ll do what we can to help. Remember, that there is a reservation system and it works quite well. As for the suggestion of late hours: White River Ranger Station (closer to Seattle and Tacoma than Paradise) is open till 8 PM on Thursday and Friday nights. For many years, we kept the Paradise Ranger Station open late too. But to be honest, very few (often NO) climbers would actually register… most late arrivals actually show up REALLY late (i.e. 10 PM to 2 AM). Also consider that the Paradise Ranger Station opens at 6 AM on Saturday and 7 AM other days. Keeping the station open from 6 AM to 10 PM becomes expensive, especially when so few climbers actually register between 6 PM and 10 PM. If you have suggestions, draft a letter with your ideas and send it to the park. You’ll get a letter back. If you want to talk with someone, I’ll happily listen to your suggestions and try to provide answers to your questions. Send me your number and I’ll call. I also invite you to stop by my office in Longmire (weekdays.) I’m listening.

I knew that weather was a charm. Good Job! Off hand, what did you think of the changes in the public hut at Muir?

Consider that Mt. Hood has a Lodge and Ski area... Think commercial, think revenue. If Paradise looked like Crystal Mountain resort, things would be different. Also with plows, if you don't continually plow the road, then you run the risk of falling behind. So if no one plows from 4 pm till 5 am, it can EASILY snow 2 feet and that takes HOURS to remove and make safe for joe-average driver. Even if it snows a few inches, it takes time to plow 2 wide lanes and the parking lot (which is another story altogether...) I've become all to familiar with the difficulties of opening the Paradise road. Over the years, I've changed my position and now feel lucky to have such access, even if it is late.

The situation with the road plows is really rather complicated. The issue includes equipment maintenance, employee schedules, erratic snowfall, joe-average driver, etc, etc. It’s just not as simple as go plow the road at 5 am so it’s open by 6 am. But trust me, I empathize with the "waiting anxiety," as I have to wait just like you do! The only benefit is that I get to drink coffee on my couch instead of in my car. As for registration, for 9 months of the year, you can self register. Self registration just doesn’t work in the summer for a number of reasons. Not only will the camps overflow, but some climbers really need the face time with a climbing ranger. It's not just about "permits," the registration process is about safety, resource protection, waste management and general information. Yes, long time returning climbers know the drill, but many climbers visiting Mount Rainier are rather new to it all. There is a reservation system and many people use it and appreciate it. That’s one way to get your camp reserved early. You can also drive the park and get your permit the day before (I know, that’s a pain, but it is an option). And if you’ve really have a special case, call ahead of time and let us know. We’ll do what we can to help get you through the bureaucracy and competing interests. Also, I didn’t think you were bashing the park. You’re asking very reasonable and logical questions; and ones I’ve heard many times before.

I'm catching up on posts... STH is a great route. Seems like you've received a lot good advice here. I've done the route once and acessed it from Success Cleaver. You can jump onto the South Tahoma Glacier and approach the headwall, but it's maybe faster and more direct to just traverse onto the lower headwall around 9K from Success Cleaver (I can't quite remember the exact elevation now, but it's pretty easy/clear once you get up there.) The benefit of this approach is that you don't have to mess with ropes. In fact, we did the route w/o ropes and down climbed Success Cleaver back to our camp. Made for a faster/safer ascent/descent. If you rope up on the headwall, bring protection. You'll mostly want pickets, and maybe a few screws...

Hey TTT Can you combine your sticky post and mine into one place for climbers to access the variety of cams and Rainier climbing pages. The new cam facing the mountain is great. I've noticed that the camera is sensitive to really bright light, but otherwise,it's nice to know when the mountain is out... Paradise cam facing down valley: http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/WebCams/parks/moracam/moracam.htm NPS site for all cams: http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/WebCams/index.htm

The route to Muir was WELL establish over the weekend, there was a perfect boot track. It's snowing now, so it's back to the snow shoes.

Lots of good advice on Success Cleaver, I agree, 8,200 feet is a bit low for a summit push. Try to make 9,500 feet, though it will take you a full 2 days to get there, and maybe more if the snow is deep. But if the snow is really deep, don’t do the route, as the avalanche hazard will probably be much worse higher on the mountain. This route isn’t so much a “ridge” climb, as it is lot of traverses along a steep ridge. You will be exposed to avalanche prone gullies. Gib is in GREAT shape, and it can be done in 2 days. It would also be a great prep for Success Cleaver. The time to climb either of these routes was over the last few days when the weather was so nice. If you really want Success Cleaver, wait until late Feb or early March, as you’ll really appreciate the longer days.

If I understand your post correctly, you are proposing that the NPS open the gate for climbers, but not other visitors? Do you think the skiers, snow-shoers, sledders and general Mount Rainier enthusiast might be upset by this? Almost everyone going to Paradise is recreating in some fashion. I think that the road to Paradise is the highest maintained road in Washington State during the winter (I can’t think of any higher paved/plowed road?). Also remember that Paradise is noted for exceptional amounts of snowfall (more than Snoqualmie, Stevens, White, Blewett, etc, etc...) My understanding is that it’s very, very expensive to finance a 24/7 plow operation for recreation, and you can't stop plowing the road during the day when folks need it most. I will also say that the NPS is very concerned about public safety (especially on icy, steep, curvey roads at high elevation where we invite the public to bring their families.) As for climber registration... you don’t have to register at the Longmire Museum if you don’t want to. Many people do however as they can get updated weather information from the ranger. If you arrive late and the station is closed and the road to Paradise is still open, you can SELF REGISTER on the front porch of the Paradise Old Station. Climbers have been able to self registration for decades. That information is posted on the park web and is on the pre-recorded information line. http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm

Just passing along some recent info. The climbing rangers at Camp Schurman report that the Emmons route is in great climbing shape. Folks arriving at Schurman have expressed concern about the bergschrund crossing. The rangers, however, say that there are a few ways to get across the final big crevasse. So, without giving away all the wonderful details (b/c then it wouldn't be any fun), the route is quite doable and climbers have been able to summit. Nice report Doxey, Mike

Nice Pic, thanks for sharing. Here's the image.

How about some good news. Congrads! http://www.tri-cityherald.com/tch/local/story/5301777p-5239399c.html

PM's on this BB aren’t an effective of way of communicating with me about NPS related issues. I do not use this account for that purpose, and rarely check it. I'm sorry you didn't get a quick response, I get lots of email questions, and I can't always respond as much as I'd like. The current reservation system does reserve up to 60%; and leaves 40% for walk up. What happens is that people “walk up” and register on Monday/Tuesday/Wed and spend more than a few nights at high camp. More than likely, the 40% available for walk up gets taken by other climbers a few days ahead of you, who are already/still on the mountain. You mentioned getting your reservation request in late. It's important to get requests in early, especially if you want to climb a popular route on a weekend. Regarding the calendar year permit, that change went into effect last year. Basically, every pass is an annual pass, so it pays to get them early and climb throughout the year. Self registration during the off season is a convenience for climbers (backpackers can’t self register), but it requires that passes be mailed. It's not a perfect system, and is administratively burdensome, but it is also a service that we want to provide b/c it allows you to climb more easily without registering “in person” during the off season (i.e. fall, winter spring, roughly, most climbers like to self register during this time of year.) Of course, if you want, you can register in person, but it has to be during office hours. The number of reservation permeations are immense: where to get permits; where to register; camps available, all the other climbers that want the same thing; when will climbers want to register; sending out climbing passes; NPS fee accountability (lot’s of guidelines/regs); and the other unique requests that we receive (and climbers often have unique requests). What I'm getting at is that we'll do what we can to get you registered and on your way. It has been a very busy spring. We are genuinely working with climbers to mitigate any bureaucratic quagmires. I personally apologize for the inconveniences. What's important is that you have a safe and enjoyable climb, while leaving no trace. Take care, Mike

FYI, 2003 Mountaineering Report. http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/Climb03.mht

Update, lots of questions floating in and I want to respond and help where I can. Hopefully this will answer some specific queries. Overall: “The Mountain” is exhibiting excellent climbing conditions. I’ve been flying around the peak quite a bit and many of the routes look as though they are in good shape with few issues to mitigate (other than the regular weather, altitude, trail breaking, and misc. subjective hazards.) As a reminder, this has been a WONDERFUL spring, with lots of great weather and very light snowfall. The climbing still remains great, but the winter snow-pack is melting quickly. If you’re interested in non-standard routes on Mount Rainier, I suggest going soon. Muir Snowfield: The route is snow covered. At this time, there is a boot track to Camp Muir, but new precipitation may bury. If this happens, consider bringing snowshoes or skies. If you’re into skiing/boarding, definitely bring the gear. It’s awesome and this is the time of year to do it. Ingraham Direct: going well, it’s been climbed and skied. Many teams headed over to top of DC. Gib Ledges: melting out fast, but new snowfall will help extend the route. Some loose volcanic mud/rock (choss??) is exposed early to mid ledges, but was stable due to cold temps. Success Cleaver: I think the fastest access is via the Westside road, up to Tahoma Creek trail (somewhat hidden, b/c of washout but easy to locate beyond the closed road) hike to Indian Henry’s and up north flank of Pyramid Peak. It’s a good route to solo, but not so great to ski, unless your skiing the Success Couloirs. They are steep; this would be classified by many as extreme skiing, play it safe. For a solo permit, see: http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/solo.htm It generally takes two weeks for approval. Sunset Ridge: Four to five days should be enough time to round trip the route, but it will be tough and one must factor weather conditions. Start on the Westside road, climb route, via Puyallup Cleaver and descend Tahoma Glacier/Sickle back to Westside road. If you want to descend to Paradise, descend over Columbia Crest back to Muir (not much easier.) As for camping, you’ll be able to find many bivy sites along the way, except on the route itself (there are “some small” platforms on route around 10K, depending on which line you choose). Ideally, camp at base of the ridge near the small rock ridge that separates the Edmunds Glacier from the South Mowich Glacier (9K+). If you need the extra time or are feeling extravagant, camp on the summit/Liberty Cap. Access/Roads: Chinook and Cayuse Passes are open. White River Road (410 to White River Campground) is still closed. That’s a 6-mile one-way hike. Bring your bikes, as the road is plowed, but not quite ready. The road is scheduled to open the Friday before Memorial Day weekend (5/28). Longmire to Paradise, scheduled to open 24/7 this Saturday. If the weather really moves in, this may change/postpone. The Carbon Road to Ipsut Creek is open. NPS Stuff: Self-Registration (with self explanatory instructions) is open on the front porch of the Paradise Old Station. This will remain in effect till May 27th. The climbing ranger station at Paradise is now open weekends, Fri-Sun, Friday night till 7 PM. If interested, here is link to the 2003 mountaineering report: http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/Climb03.mht There is a lot of neat info about last year there. Hope you are enjoying the spring and enjoying the mountains. Mike

i miss these rainier questions when they aren't in the rainier thread... lots of great advice here. mountaineer38, if you prefer to camp higher than ingraham flats, and have a really short summit day, there are a few options. but you're going to introduce a few problems (rodchester caught on here) too. for the most part, with a strong back and shovel, any climber can probably make some sort of camp just about anywhere on the mountain. you can camp in crevasses, carve out platforms on ice, and dig flat spots on steep glaciers... it's all a matter of what you want and how hard you’re willing to work. keep in mind, the winds can be bad just about anywhere on the hill, but they tend to get worse up high. furthermore, you're spending more time up high and on the hill. That means you’re taking the chance that something (i.e the weather, your health, your resolve, your partner, etc...) could change. yes, it's completely possible to get a week of wonderful weather. If that’s the case, you'll have few regrets, but... you may spend 3 lovely days basking in the sun below 11K only to walk into a storm on day 4. you need to measure these factors and your goals. if you really want to spend 4-5 days climbing. here is "one" suggestion. day one: hike up the muir snowfield to say 8K or so. day 2: hike to camp muir (10K). day 3, go to ingraham flats (11K). there, take a rest day and enjoy the view of little t and the sunrise. day 5: climb to the summit. yes, its roughly 3K of elevation gain, but you'll feel really good after taking a day off and spending that much time on route. this is a VERY conservative approach, but you wouldn't be the first to do this and many folks have a good time doing so. benefits, lots of time in the field, enjoy the trip, etc, etc... bad side, weather could change, could get sick of your partner (choose well!) and your packs will be heavier. if you want to carry your pack above 11K, i would say, camp on the summit instead and spend a day off there. explore the caves, enjoy the view, etc. that’s probably more fun than some bivy on route above the ingraham flats (IMO.) ramsey and mtnfreak are pretty much right... you can get permits for the upper mountain. i doubt (really hope) that anyone will yell at you! have a great trip. mike

Nice try H. Yeah, the Nodder is stalking me, but I'm not the nodder. How is that snowman of yours doing up at Muir? Did you have a good trip?

Here's a little polish. Too bad the view isn't always like this.

I don't think Duchess was trying to say that doesn't exist here, just that it's not as frequent as WY or CO. If I recall correctly, she was nearly zapped once on Mount Rainier. That said; I've seen a fair amount of lightning up here. Many times in the Schurman hut, which is basically a metal culvert. Once even, the hut was glowing with St. Elmo’s fire. VERY SPOOKY! We bailed and stood in the torrential rain down on the Winthrop. As for photos our clothing? I don't have any. They wouldn’t look that great anyway. Burns were more like cigarette burns, except they went through all the layers of our cloths. We had matching burn marks on our skin. I had a few on my back; one scare was an inch long. My partner Fletcher had the most, roughly 8 or so down the left side of his body. During the event, you could also smell burning hair and flesh. Bug is right; we were in a terrible place. But there was really nowhere else to go, except UP, and we weren't going to do that. Last summer, lightning in the same place killed a climber. Doxey, good point, I don’t know if the metal attracts or not. This much I know, when things went down, I didn’t want anything metal next to me! That storm really whipped up on us. It was pre 11 AM, and we didn’t experience any of the normal buzzing or sizzling sounds, only heavy snowfall. That turned to high winds and grapple during the lightning strikes. "Ambassador Mike" Hum?? Thanks!

I’ve been getting phone calls and email messages; folks seem psyched to visit Rainier this weekend. Not to mention the great weather and positive press in the TRs; I suspect there will be a lot of attempts. People have been asking a lot questions about routes, NPS regs, etc. I’d like to share what I know. 1. The road from Longmire to Paradise still closes nightly to uphill traffic at 6:30 PM. For the most part, it tends to get opened in the morning around 8 am. Sometime around May 9, the road will open 24/7 (depending on snowfall). 2. Climbers can self-register for permits on the front porch of the Old Station at Paradise; it’s self-explanatory. Permits, blue bags and fee envelopes for climbing passes are available. 3. As mentioned in the many trip reports already posted, the routes are pretty much in great climbing shape. In my opinion, April and May about the best time to climb (when the weather is good). That means, IT’S TIME TO CLIMB, things are about as good as it gets. Based on field reports and observations, the Nisqually Glacier, Nisqually Ice Cliff, Gib Ledges Cadaver Gap and Ingraham Direct are all very doable. I suspect that the Kautz Glacier and Fuhrer’s Finger are too. I wont go into specifics about each route, but suffice it to say, the routes are ready. 4. If you’re into downhill sports, bring the boards. Conditions are EXCELLENT, especially on the Muir Snowfield. The Tatoosh is also looking sweet. I went to Castle the other day and found climbing nice and the skiing great. I took up telemarking this winter for those who know me to be a boarder. : ) 5. Going to Muir? There is a nice boot track already in place; snowshoes really aren’t necessary but good footwear is. I recommend trekking poles, plenty of water, sunscreen and sunglasses (along with the other 10 E’s). Expect to see lots of people (for April) this weekend. SAFETY 1. Springtime is avalanche time on Mount Rainier. Though we’ve seen very little snowfall in recent weeks, the potential for avalanche certainly exists. There is a large volume of snow still up there, and the warm temperatures could bring things down on top of you. This is definitely the case for the upper mountain however it is also true for steeper routes in the Tatoosh. I’m not trying to scare anyone off; just asking you to remember to carry a probe and shovel and wear your transceiver. Knowing how to use your equipment is very important. 2. A few folks who have asked about soloing, all I can say is watch for crevasses high on the hill. They are brutal, though the slopes look well covered. My apologies to the experienced folks who find this information too basic. Have a great weekend; wish I could be up there with you all. If you see an airplane buzzing around Sat night and Sun morn. Smile and wave, I’ll be taking your photo. Mike

Hey Scott, I don't think Paris and Pamela will appreciate you sharing that video. Especially Paris, she's pretty upset since that last episode. After all the attention they've been getting, it will appear as though your profiteering off of their notoriety.

see comment above 'bout pink toenails hey now dru... let's careful there... i'd like to see some third party photos to prove that i've been painting my toenails pink... don't make me get tuff...

rainier junkies might be interested in this. the NPS has installed an air quality monitoring web cam at paradise. if air quality isn't your thing, mabye the view down valley from paradise is?! below is the link. i've noticed that it sometimes goes offline, but more often than not, it works. below is the link to other NPS webcams around the nation. i suspect that more cams will be added in time (they have a j-tree cam). between the paradise cam and the telemetry (posted at the bottom) you can get some idea of what the weather is doing at paradise... hope you enjoy, paradise cam: http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/WebCams/parks/moracam/moracam.htm NPS site for all cams: http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/WebCams/index.htm telemetry site: http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/OSOPVC

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