Mike_Gauthier

that's right matt, a team lost a pack in an avalanche a few years ago; another lost a pack that was stowed at the mouth of an emergency cave/bivouac and there have other occasions when folks dropped or lost critical gear. right on fairweather. i also carry one of those tools too! so do a number of other rainier aficionados, they work perfect as a back up.

hey matt i tend to agree with much of what you said, but as someone who has to pick up the pieces when people crash on rainier, i would like to add that down climbing liberty ridge with one tool is quite dangerous unless you're a physically strong and very experienced climber. i would go so far as to say that if you're even asking about route conditions, climbing techniques and logistics, you're probably not up to safely soloing and down climbing the route. you are correct in stating that the route isn't vertical nor is it too technically difficult. it is, however, one helluva fall if you screw up. btw, there is a lot of good advice on this page...

I'm bringing witnesses to verify that we were all there...

Am I to understand that folks are meeting at the Spar? Hey Old Man, are you going to be there??? Let me know if i'm reading this correctly... thanks folks mike

At least another foot of snow fell in Longmire last night... there is nearly 150 inches at Paradise now.... Winter seems to be making up for lost time...

What about this side??

I just checked, we recieved 21 inches at Paradise overnight. It's still coming down. Not sure what's going on at Muir, etal... Probably blowing like hell... But 21 at Paradise is AWESOME!!!

On a much brighter and more pertinent note, it's snowing GANG BUSTERS here at the park... Plenty of nice, deep, cold fresh snow for everyone... It looks as though it snowed more than a foot in Longmire last night...

Just to be clear, this isn't a MRNP climbing ranger van... but I'm still laughing non-the-less...

TOO FUNNY! Yeah, it's a sniper van if there ever was. bought it in LV a week before all that sniper stuff went on... Holds all my gear and keeps me dry during road trips. and I intend to get it armored so I can safely camp on the Mowich Lake Road...

i've been getting lots PMs about the upper mountain conditions... here's some recent info on the topic. as of today, friday the 7th, the route to muir is in great shape. folks have been booting in the trail all week. the snow is somewhat firm for most of the snowfield, as the wind has been blowing quite a bit the last few days. most of the wind has been from the EAST... we took a few board runs down the big chutes/gullies that drop into the nisqually glacier... the snow was firm, but spooky... a lot of windblown snow was piled in the chutes by the easterly winds. be careful as the afternoon sun softens them, i fear that the avalanche condition will sky rocket... as for muir and above, things are looking quite good for climbing. we spent the better part of the week up there however we didn't summit. the wind was blowing HARD and no one was up for 4 K of postholing through deep snow and high winds. in general about the routes: the mountain received a lot of snow last week, and a lot of wind this week. we were rather nervous about this on tue/wed/thur. things seems to be stabilizing out nicely now that the winds have died down. it seems as though most of the loose snow on the mountain has been blown off (probably over to crystal mountain...) the ID is in great shape. there is lot's of snow covering the crevasses, etc. a few weeks ago, we climbed the center of the glacier and went climbers left to the top of gib rock (camp comfort). as i heard at muir yesterday from credible sources, things are still in great shape on this route. the guide service kicked in a trail up cathedral rock, but things look good through cadaver gap too. either way will get you there. Gib Ledges: they are in great shape!! NO, primo shape!!! go for it. i recommend against ANY rappels off the ledges unless you want to waste your time looking for the "obvious descent gully. " the only rappel on this route that climbers "sometimes" take is at the BEEHIVE, which is near 11K on cowlitz cleaver. we were there yesterday, the rap station is in, but you can avoid this rap if you climb the cowlitz glacier instead of the ridge behind muir.... again, either way works. gib chute: in, but dangerous, probably good for ridding/skiing at this time. nisqually ice cliff and cleaver. these routes also look good, especially the cleaver. the typical route up the ice cliff has changed over the years but it still a go. it is scary however, move fast if you do this one. nisqually icefall. seems to be a lot interest in this route this year. not sure why, it's certainly been in better shape before. this is definitely a way up the ice fall, but it's neither direct or safe. your team will be exposed to icefall at numerous points on route, especially down low. the route should go however, just make sure you hustle. we noticed numerous ice falls and avalanches off the nisqually during our days at muir. hope this info helps and inspires you to get out. the mountain is looking primo for climbing. mike

Wow, You guys seem to think you know a lot about our testing...??? Hey Lambone, you're statements stink... Shall we Monday-Morning QB your rescue this summer? I heard some rumors about your incident from the SAR responders and helicopter crew... N by NW put it correctly, "I don't think we're in any position to say whether their test was meaningful or not, there's too much we don't know." Please keep speculation and opinions based on hearsay to a minimum. Otherwise inaccurate, and possibly hurtful, information will be spewed. Thanks Mike

This may be a long shot... but here goes. Calling anyone with "Chouinard" double stem Camelots. I've been asked to lead an outside analysis of Goran Kropp's accident at Frenchman Coulee. So far, the process is going well, however, our team could use some help. We are looking for old style (double cable) Chouinard Camelots. In particular, we are looking for # 1, 2 and 3 cams. Those are the red, yellow and blue cams respectively. Last Friday, I spent the day with a team of five testing gear, breaking gear and generally seeing what holds and what doesn't with these cams. Unfortunately, we only had a few to work with and would like to do more testing. If you have this style of cam, and would like to help, we’d love to have your gear. Perhaps it’s time to retire your old cams? Maybe they’re collecting dust b/c you've already moved onto better/newer gear? Maybe you know someone who doesn't climb on them anymore??? Whatever the case, any donation will be GREATLY appreciated! We promise to return your gear at the completion of the analysis along with a video showing how we tested it. More than likely, your gear will be crunched… so consider this before donating. After seeing a few of these pieces nearly fail or completely destroyed, we thought we'd ask for help. Please PM me if you have any thoughts or suggestions. Feel free to forward this request to others who may be able to help. I’ve also added this post to the gear section so it will get more exposure on the site. Thanks in advance for any help you are able to offer. Mike

This may be a long shot... but here goes. Calling anyone with "Chouinard" double stem Camelots. I've been asked to lead an outside analysis of Goran Kropp's accident at Frenchman Coulee. So far, the process is going well, however, our team could use some help. We are looking for old style (double cable) Chouinard Camelots. In particular, we are looking for # 1, 2 and 3 cams. Those are the red, yellow and blue cams respectively. Last Friday, I spent the day with a team of five testing gear, breaking gear and generally seeing what holds and what doesn't with these cams. Unfortunately, we only had a few to work with and would like to do more testing. If you have this style of cam, and would like to help, we'd love to have your gear. Perhaps it's time to retire your old cams? Maybe they're collecting dust b/c you've already moved onto better/newer gear? Maybe you know someone who doesn't climb on them anymore??? Whatever the case, any donation will be GREATLY appreciated! We promise to return your gear at the completion of the analysis along with a video showing how we tested it. More than likely, your gear will be crunched so consider this before donating. Please PM me if you have any thoughts or suggestions. Feel free to forward this request to others who may be able to help. Thanks in advance for any help you are able to offer. Mike [ 11-26-2002, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

hey guys! yes, i took a good look at the mountain today after all that squabble over where one should ski on rainier... to me, it looks as though it rained pretty heavily up to nearly 10,500 feet. it was quite warm yesterday and rained over 2 inches at longmire! today, the weather was PERFECT!!! very, very warm at paradise, 68 degrees reported!!! it's suppose to remain nice for a few days. quite frankly the upper mountain looked really good for climbing. i saw solid snow across the entire gib ledge. from paradise, i couldn't see what it was like above camp comfort however?! as for other routes, i would guess that the glacier routes are either still quite broken, or riddled with recently hidden crevasses. play it cool if you go. success cleaver looked totally awesome; it's probably a GREAT time to do it... easy approach, perfect amounts of snow on the ridge where you need it... wish i were around to take advantage of this. i you go for it, have a great trip, enjoy the relative solace, and be safe. mike [ 11-21-2002, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

Thanks [ 11-04-2002, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

update it was 17 degrees at paradise this morning and the winds are blowing stiff at 40 MPH. the mountain has a lite dusting of snow aove 6 K, but i would bet that much of the new fluff has been transported away. bring your windbreaker... have fun mike

mike i haven't had a chance to investigate myself (i'm slaving away behind the computer in longmire...) the trees above have a dusting, but it was clear her last night. the muir snowfield is probably in "decent" shape, i highly doubt, however, that there is enough snow to cover the meadows below pebble creek. if i find out more today, i'll post. mike

i love mount russell!!! i've photographed it extensively. you need to call paul roderick at TAT. 907 733 2218. if anyone can get you close, he can. i'm not sure how to post images on this web site, otherwise i would share. email me directly for a KILLER image. i'm reluctant to share my entire stash over the internet. mike [ 11-01-2002, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

i like your style ted!

hey erik, i know greg is joking, but i really find this shooting rather disturbing. damn, they could have been killed!! hey col... i was going to ask you, why didn't the police block the road? this is troubling and it sucks. unfortunately for me, i frequently crash along remote roads and camp on USFS land when doing road trips (i hate paying for lodging). it's always been my fear that some yoyo will show up and create havoc in my life... I’m finding too many coincidences here (minus the shooting)... i hate to think that its become too dangerous to camp/crash along logging roads... [ 10-29-2002, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: Mike Gauthier ]

i received this note from a ranger who works in the area.... "While this is pretty shocking, it is not out of character for the Carbon drainage. Most every disabled vehicle on the Mowich/Carbon roads winds up being a target. Highly recommend no-one make pit stops on those roads. Better to sack out at Mowich Lake or Ipsut. Thanks for forwarding this" hey greg, you don't know what you're talking about. who said that i was lonely? do you think the family reference was rather rude?

i hadn't noticed this thread till today... my first reaction is HOLY SHIT!!! this is VERY ALARMING and hardly a joking matter!!! i once lived at mowich lake for an entire fall (and an interesting fall it was). besides wondering if the cabin was haunted, i found the area to be a nest-bed of larceny and bull shit backwoods behavior. much of it pointed at park visitors. it's also the only place in the park where i've had my car broken into. i'm sorry this happened, i will share this information with park rangers and managers. mike

amen brother pete! i'm with you, bring on the snow. i hear, however, that the long range forcast for october includes sun and warmer than normal weather...