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ScottP

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Everything posted by ScottP

  1. Did your feet get cold?
  2. The climbing guide to the Sawtooth Range in Idaho. You've gotta make a side trip to Ketchum to see it.
  3. I was reading a back issue of Climbing Rag that had an article by Jay Smith about climbing in the Fitzroy group. The title was something like "Eighteen Pitches in Fifty Eight Days" Conservatively, I figure that's about a month of sitting around waiting for weather. Imo, can't see a FA of an already climbed summit being worth so much mind-numbing boredom. With plenty of drugs, it might be a different story...
  4. (note to self: read before you post)
  5. ScottP

    Retro-chopping

    Make sure to add some of those homemade-angle-aluminum-meathook bolt hangars to those star-dryvin 1/4 inchers. Also, remove the nut and strip the threads off some1/4 inchers and angle them downward for those spicy stopper-looping clips.
  6. I agree with GT...I have seen some places I otherwise never would have while learning how to use my receiver. My 4 year old son gets a big kick out of going on the "treasure hunts."
  7. It seems to me that X number of permits equals X number of people in the Enchantments. How they get there-individually or in a guided group-seems irrelevant from an impact perspective. I can see how guides (and therefore clients) getting preference over individuals for permits could be an issue, and one that probably will be if this idea flies. "money talks..."
  8. White Slabs/Umbrella Tree Linkup of the moderates on Careno Crag. The path of least resistance on Bathtub Dome.
  9. The runouts that are currently there are long enough that it is more like soloing than sport climbing. Why not just use pitons and remove the bolts? For that matter, why not remove all the bolts and make it a solo route. Who decides how this is to be done? I see new bolts going up all the time and I don't hear a lot of complaining about it. I'm just trying to get a general concensus ." It sounds like more than "just" consensus building to me. The consensus is loud and clear: If you have issues with the runouts, don't do them.
  10. There's a nitch market... molded replicas of classic hard crack pitch cruxes.
  11. from the fish website: THE COOL JERK: The Cool Jerk is a length of 5/32" cable, 32" long, with a loop swaged into each end. Use it to clean Heads, RURPs, and some pins by clipping into the piece and looping the other end over your hammer head. Take a wild swipe at the air and when this baby comes taut, action is assured. The low stretch of the cable, coupled with the velocity of the hammer mass make for a mighty force at the offending piece. Plus, on those rare occasions when the piece rifles out and the whole ensemble hits you in the arm, it gives you something to think about besides your next lead. Think of it as "distraction through pain" therapy. $6.75 ea.
  12. I second the nix on NW Corners. I was thinking that mystery rock on the far right side of SCW, in the vicinity of that big arch.
  13. ScottP

    Not Got Money

  14. On the Hornli "The Matterhorn is a spectacular mountain and fantastic climb, even with the crowds. If dry, climbers on this route need only a 8.5 or 9 mm rope, a few slings and biners, belay device, plus one or two large 'biners, an ice-axe and crampons. A bit of acclimatization from one of the many beautiful hikes or easier peaks (like Breithorn or Mettlehorn) around Zermatt is invaluable."
  15. Animalia, Chordata, Mammalia, Primate, Hominidae, Homo sapiens neanderthalensis "caveman"
  16. Animalia, Chordata, Osteichthyes, Perciformes, Mugilidae, Mugil curema "Mullet"
  17. I have a 4.5 year old who wants to climb with dad. His feet are 5-6 inches long. I have a pair of Mythos or a pair of, I think 5.10's that would fit an adolescent foot to trade, or I can pay for them. Does any body have something in that size range they no longer need? Thanks. Scott
  18. Wasn't that Tom Leykis getting smooched by the Monopoly Game dude at the opening bell of the Dow this morning (5/22)? Yep, that was him.
  19. Judging by the boot polished rock on the approach ledge, you're not alone. Obvious spots for feet were slick as glass.
  20. That place is pretty cool. The only route I have ever done is Soler (5.9). It is a worthy objective. Do it early or late, cause the heat can be an issue.
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