ScottP

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP:Schlangensmecker is a fool whose German is so poor that I suspect that he is an aging burned-out writer for Hogan's Heroes. If Mr. Happy likes this guy, he needs to visit Mr. Counseling. Pope: I am not a "meat inspector" in Leavenworth but I suspect that you should inspect your own "meat" for signs of disease as you seem obsessed with male strippers. Trask: I called one of your "girlfriends" and she told me that "Mr. Happy" is better known as "Limpy the Clown."RURP has spoken. This is one of the funnier posts I have seen in quite a while.

quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Painfull spelling.Graduated from what? painful only has one "L"

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I get most of my rap slings thanks to guys like Norman Clyde, who leave extra bomber webbing in perfectly good anchors. My best score was a full set up of locking biners and sewn webbing somene had left on the anchors atop Orchard Rock when they rapped off. wait, you say - Orchard Rock has rap ring anchors. exactly BOOTY The south Face of the Tooth has huge bundles of rap slings by summers end. Overkill? I think so.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: I think most ratty old slings are pretty bomber. I've seen a few horendous fixed pieces (like ancient rurps and shit)in Yosemite with mystery sling that you wouldn't wanna walk your dog with...but it held fine. I go by the theory that if you leave a sling you should take a sling as well, or two. Preparing to rap off of the Chopping Block in the southern Picketts, I backed up an old sling with a couple others and threaded the rope through all three. My two were a bit longer and so when I weighted the anchor, the old sling was the first to take the weight. It crackled, split and then fell apart. I used to trust ratty slings before then. Never since. Back them up. Slings are cheap.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: I sort of agree with you except that it I believe that it is slightly the other way around: the irregular nature of granite cracks is precisely what makes them hex-frieindly whereas the smooth and parallel nature of the basalt at a place like Vantage causes difficulty for hexes. Interestingly, I find that the Andesite at Tieton is often quite hex-friendly and indeed, the cracks there are often irregular inside and narrower at the rock surface than the inside of the crack, so hexes work very well and do not walk like a cam. From John Middendorf's excellent treatise The Mechanical Advantage "...Chouinard and Frost redesigned their tooling for the new clean equipment. Their major contribution to the clean-climbing revolution was the invaluable Hexcentric, co-patented in 1971, which made protection available even in parallel-sided cracks." (http://www.primenet.com/~midds/mechanical.html) The excentric nature of the hex shape was designed specifically to to give a camming action of sorts in the smooth parallel-sided cracks that are found in the Valley.

The DNB on Middle Cathedral (long and varied) Robert Cobb (longtime climbing partner) Thin Red Line (DAMN the rain!)

quote: Originally posted by trask: Right. Isn't that like the female voice in a fighter jock's cockpit (Yappin' Betty, or something) that hollers, "No Bingo, or pull up-pull up?" Uh...yeah... (Actually, it's more like my 3 year old son asking "Daddy, do you want to pway wif me?")

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Icegirl -Smith has some very good, if not excellent, moderate climbs. Many are "trad" but there are plenty of them and they tend to be less crowded than the sport climbs. Don't let your "friends" fool you. -Matt Zebra/Zion is a must do...And don't forget to check out the gorge while you are there.

Listen to that little voice that is telling you it's time to turn back/put in another piece/double check your knot, etc. Also, focus on one thing at a time, especially when tired/hungry/thirsty/cold, etc.

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Friend-0-Mine was camping on the Olympic Peninsula when a couple of local dogs came over. Friendly and Kissy as can be. He and his wife hung out with the animals all evening. Next morning he got up for the morning constitutional, walked to the woods, dropped Trau and bent over. Quickly noticed that nothing that left his rear was hitting the ground. He hates those dogs now. Used to have a dog named Gracie. Good, smart dog.On a hike up to the Upper Wall at Index, I took a detour to do some logging. Being a good boy scout, I buried the slash. Back on the trail Gracie did her usual bush-wacking. Stopping for a drink of water, I called Gracie. She came bounding up the trail and gave me her customary lick on the hand as a greeting. Bringing the water bottle up to my lips, I got a hefty whiff of the scrunch I had just left in a hole a couple hundred yards back.I lost some respect for the bitch that day.

.)Just wondering what you geeks have hanging on your cubicle/office/whereveryouwork wall That black and white poster of Peter Croft doing a straightarmhang/heelhook rest while leading the roof on the Rostrum. A pic of me hanging from the lip of the roof on the Zipper. The mechanical pig races that my students won by cheating when we gutted the motor and gears from the pig and strapped a high pressure water rocket to it's back. (We graciously declined the first place award.)

A six pack of Winter Hook in the trees to the right of Lower International at Alpental one warm spring day.

quote: Originally posted by mtngrrrl: (snip) Beyond the stitching, we ordinary consumers wouldn't have easy access to high tech fabrics and for that matter, fabric is also pretty pricey. So are industrial sewing machines. I've made my own ski bags from felt and nylon, but I wouldn't venture into anything more technical. I sewed all of the clothand webbing parts for a portaledge using my wife's regular sewing machine (with heavy duty needles) and fabric I got from Seattle Fabrics. The ledge has endured having a hundred pound flake come off of Uncle Ben's at Squamish and punch a hole though the floor. I patched it with my wife's regular sewing machine, and it's ready for more.

On the bright side, there was that owner of Malden Mills(the Polartec manufacturer)who continued to pay his employees even after a devastating fire nearly destroyed the plant. The gesture cost him millions, but his response to why was, "...I consider my workers an asset, not a liability." They were so appreciative that after production resumed, they nearly doubled the output of yardage per week, working 25 hour days to do so.

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: (snip)Once light enough, they continue over and begin to pick up moisure from the Hood Canal and Puget Sound. Now laden with moisture again, they slam into the Cascades and back up until they dump enough to lighten up and pass over.(snip) Your saying that the clouds reload with enough moisture evaporating from Hood Canal and Puget Sound to dump the precip that falls on the WA Cascades? I don't think so. Moist clouds and rain come off the Pacific from the southwest. As the saturated air rises over the Olympic Mountains it cools and rainfall is very heavy. In some areas more than 200 inches a year. As that air descends the lee side of the Olympics toward Sequim and the San Juan Islands. It has been exhausted of moisture. The air will become clear. Few clouds and little if any rain. The rain that hits the Cascades is a result of the moisture that doesn't dump on the Olympics, but rather flows around it to the north and south and in cases of more extreme systems, continues over the top.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Harris: I heard a radio ad today that used strange place names of real places, like Deadhorse, AK. It got me to thinking about other strange names. Here in CA some do not seem strange until you translate to english, like Manteca (Lard) and Maricopa (Moth). Any others out there? I live in Exit. If Maricopa is Moth, what then is Ventucopa?

Not a place name per se, but: There's a "Brown Material Road" between McKittrick and Blackwell's Corner in CA.

Ya ever notice how the original GI Joe had his hands configured just right for gripping a beer in one hand and holding a joint in the other?

100 proof Stolichnaya Vodka...In an aluminum flask, packed into a snowdrift/bank until chilled.Smooth, smooth, smooth. On a side note:I know of two situations where one person used anothers bottle of Stoly to cook a pot of pasta.That's enough to make a grown man cry. [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: 666 667- The neighbor of the Beast.

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: (Snip) he once again lets loose with a massive bellow of hot air and gets on the wall. He pulls a few moves and ends up again on the rope. He does not stop his girations there though. Immediately upon weighting the rope with his bulk, he starts kicking the wall and screaming "GOD DAMN IT!" "MOTHAF*CKA SON OF A BITCH" "ASSHOLE...MOTHAF*CKA". (Snip) -Heinous I once witnessed almost the same behavior except that it was a helmeted whirly with an El Cap sized rack leading the "Dense Brush" variant of the S Face of the Tooth. I can only surmise that the cause of the ruckus was the age old mystery: "I didn't really want to climb it. I only wanted to have climbed it" syndrome.

I thought it was the inside of Robert Downey Jr's sinus cavity.

My vote goes to RURP for the calculated, yet mundane way he can get the hackles up. Merely labeling people groupies gets him mud falcon warnings and (amongst others) the venerable "cock chugger" moniker. What, are you spittin' on that bait? [ 12-22-2001: Message edited by: ScottP ]

I said: Now, watching Lisa Gnade do a painful(and improbable)looking highstep on Model Worker...that's another story... quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: A story worth telling . . . Rob and I were climbing Model Worker one fine spring day. I am just finishing leading it, when this woman walks up to the base of the route and starts talking to Rob; asking him what the route is, etc. I experience a bit of concern as Rob has a substantial weakness for redheads and has been known to be less than attentive at belaying in the best of circumstances. I, however, manage to get to the ground safely under my own control. By this time the woman has walked over to her pack to get her harness on because Rob has offered her a toprope. I quietly ask him if he recognizes her, and am surprised when he doesn't because he knows everybody. Anyway, I tell him who it is and moments later she is tying into the rope. For those of you who know Model Worker, there is a point between the first and second bolt where you are standing on a little ledge and have to do a backstep sort of thing (at least that's how I do it) to gain the slanting corner. Rather than do this back step, Lisa places her left foot up where her left hand is (looks to be about shoulder height from the ground) and proceeds to slowly rock her weight onto her foot. Rob and I are stunned by the "flexibility and control" exhibited. She cruises the rest of the route. After reaching the ground, we make small talk and find that she is here to take a look at City Park. Rob offers her a belay, but soon after doing so, precipitation happens and we are denied the opportunity to see her work on City Park.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP. You guys are all groupies. You read about these people in magazines and now they are all your "friends"......I need no other heroes then myself striving to do my Big Wall best.RURP has spoken. In the two experiences I mentioned previously, I either was just minding my own biness when I was approached by the people mentioned or happened to wander by where they happened to be.And I gotta say that Al Steck's and Fred Beckey's reputations predate any mag I've viewed (which brings up the point that I quit buying climbing periodicals when the number of pages of ads superceded the number of relevant content pages.) No grouping here. Now, watching Lisa Gnade do a painful(and improbable)looking highstep on Model Worker...that's another story... [ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: ScottP ]