Cpt.Caveman

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I cut farts in Icicle Canyon.

Hey they should name the new farm route. I propose Barnyard Pimp (that's a rooster).

Not James Notgotmoney

I use an overhand it works fine every time with long stands.

I have climbed some rime ice and some water ice and some mixed routes within the last 2 months. Some talk about tools with the pinky rest and many mention it's not a good "tool" because it is not capable of letting someone dig the shaft into the snow or ice. Of coursse in bomber ice it will not. However on many alpine climbs I am able to piolet or do that shit with my "pinky fuck thing tools" Grivel light machines. I dont think I have yet found a reason to buy a second set of tools or to think that my tools were inferior. I only climb moderate shit in the cascades. What do you think?

Yeah two ropes with one overhand is what I meant. Technical heheh.

Maybe you should get a sponsor to cover that shit I bet you might be able to make some "extreme" climber group.? I aint going in there any time before May!

tight on all 4 strands with *long* ends. I'm not saying it's the safest knot but I use it often when rapelling or tying in half rope mostly. Is an overhand the Euro Death Knot?

I think the overhand knot comes untied when it is not dressed correctly * tied with good care and tight enough all around* and that the ends are not long enough.

Colin I rated 5 stars. He climbs all my multi day routes in a day and provides me with more beta than any one single person here. Gung ho. I think the star voting system sucks serious ass.

It seems to me the only factor the french system includes in the grade might be the commitment or seriousness factor from my experiences with other areas. Not much experience. Hehhe So just stating in a guidebook that rated R or that retreat is difficult after or in a certain area is sufficient enough and even more detailed for me. Does someone else have more insight?

an overhand i suspect is sufficient in v thread situation but when rapping off something that is melting icy or quesitonable or plain old every time on ice I use the double fishermans. I guess my previous comments should have said 90% 4 knots then 1% munter and 9% fishermans.

The other 1% is when forget my bely device and I use a munter.

I removed the photos. I can email you them if you send me a pm with your address... Tell me what ones you want to see.

The knots I use almost 99% of the time are- Clove Hitch Prusik Overhand Figure 8 Maybe those were the knots mentioned Donini or whoever was thinking about? I dont see much consistant use in most of my climbing that contains any of the others mentioned that I can currently *heineken brained* think of. There are options for better use of other knots in situations of course. A mule knot ?? I dont know what it is.

Good info matt.

I've seen some scary and dangerous "spindrift" before..... Enough to bury gear. It doesnt take much....

Mainly what I mean is that if my gaper fat ass was considering climbing it then most people would..... I think I have good judgement of my skills.

Reading above I suspect that the gradings in the Mclane book on 2 climbs could be the same but dont know. I've climbed the Slesse and would guess that the NR stuart full is the same difficulty......... Maybe it's not as committing since you can escape at midheight on NR stuart. It's pretty speculative like anything. In winter I also believe that the US standard for seriousness is easier for me to determine since I am more educated in the already standing systems......

I cant reply to someone's thread and quote their comments using my browser - MSN8-.

RE-I think mattp was just commenting on the stark difference in conditions between then and now. I didn't detect any antagonism. It's an awesome photo in any case, and thanks for posting it. ******************************** Maybe so. I just read it like it was mostly talking about Pyramid Peak. I dont have any desire to climb Colonial at the moment and am not personally eyeballing it. However I did like the looks of the EF of Pyramid Peak... Which if the snow conditions were better then I might have considered returning to climb the E or N Face.

some dude named James. I'll ask my bud when him and that guy come back from Canada next week.

It doesnt surprise me that *you guys* climbed it. Right on. That takes balls and determination. Too bad you lost your skis.

RE-Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.) ****************************************** It has been repeated..........