Peter_Puget

John Bachar~~Top roping is the purest form of roped climbing, you are free from artificial positions obtained when trying to clip, there is always some slack in the rope, unlike the tension you get when clipping. You are free to concentrate on the pure climbing moves. All I can add is that's an ideal for living!

Answering your question as to why I didn't comment on the quality of your Nation reference in that "missing thread." Here is a clear example of the poor quality skewed reporting appearing in that occasionally but not often lately worthwhile journal. Sad to see a publication that once pub;ished people as diverse as John Quincy Admams, Hannah Arendt and Chris Hitchens descend so far. PP

http://hnn.us/articles/1074.html

[ 10-23-2002, 01:52 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

I think this interesting thread should really be moved over to a more approriate venue - say the Congr. debates thread?

Dru - It's not a 12+ OW. The OW is not really climbed as an OW anyway. FYI - the anchor at the bottom of the crux pitch on Piplein is bolts and chain. PP

Great pics Matt! Looks like everyone had fun.

Sex Bomb Baby, Yea!

Now we are talking. ANy idea of the life of these prints?

Dru - Believe it or not in a few years that diary will be fun to look at. I use to have one and came across it a while ago and had a blast reliving the past and wondering how I had so much time to climb. I have the bouldering guide Ill let you know if no one else does first. Are those V grades McKlane or Select guide? PP

I have always ordered on the weekend and recieved during the next week. Only a couple of days!

Remember what Heff says: What happens at the Rpoe-up stays at the Rope-up!

That old +/- thing can be confusing on ratings. The old Wilts guide (Suicide) used them as follows. 10- equals 10a/b, 10 equals 10b/c, 10+ equals 10c/d. Locally Brooks and Carlstad used 10+ to mean that some believe it is .10 and others .11. I was wondering how you were dealing with ratings in your guide. Sorry for the thread drift.

Hey move it top the Congr debates thread. I want that sucker to rival Muir on Sat!

My father had the pleasure of being in the So Pacific in WWII and actually engaged in some heavy duty fighting. The kind where several thousand soldiers die in a very few days. He also was in the service during Korea. My Uncle was also fortunate and was sent to Europe where he had the great joy of a German bullet knocking all his teeth out. (As a sidebar he recently had some metal from that war surgically removed) Back in the first Gulf War I was visiting and we engaged in a long and vociferous discussion about the war. Another guest was a man who lived across the street from my parents. This gentleman was a imigrant from Germany and fought during WWII. His wife had amazing stories of being homeless and running from the Russians. Many differing views held by the group and strangely the guys with the most real war experience were the most in favor of the Gulf War and the complete and decisive defeat of Iraq. Never once did I hear anyone say: "well you'd think different if you had fought." Funny how this profoundly undemocratic argument is often used against those advocating war.

Answer is yes and there already are some climbs in the area.

E rock is right about pics! They are key. If you did a 5.8 FA with great pics you'd be in a magazine! Being ugly has been keeping me from fame for years!

CB Wrote: Who has REALLY climbed a ground-up (never top roped),on-sight, multipitch (more than 3 pitches?), gear belays (or maybe a couple of belay bolts),5.10+? I bet lots of people have and could. Sadly the NW doesn't have a bunch of good rock that is easily accessible and extended periods of good weather and clean!. Put almost anyone that can climb 5.11 at the base of Dragontail or Prusick and say go contrive a multi pitch 5.11 and most could. The question isn't do or can routes exist. It is will they be good are they worth the effort.

No not Cruel Shoes but if he does label that route bold then his lack of disclosure on some other routes is really inconsistant. I am not slamming your bud (in fact I have bought all his Squamish guides since that updat e back in the 80s) but he has clearly made a purposeful choice NOT to show this info. I just think it is pretty damn useful. If someone was planning on going to do routes on the apron I'd say without doubt bring the select guide!

Dru - My excitely neighbor to the north, On some routes with pitches with NO pro McKlane makes no mention of the lack of pro. Yet those topos come in handy by clearly showing this minor fact! Plus the topos are different from Mr. Campbells. For a rock climbing area KM's lack of topos certainly sucks. And his topos that are included are not an improvement vague at best. As far as over grading at Squamish isn't that a tradition fathered by Kevin himself. By the way construction wise his books rock!

I bet it is bolted. But who knows? Thanks! Next time be quicker with yoru response!

Are the belays on Pipeline fixed? If not, what size is need at the top of the crux pitch?INquiring minds need to know!

You guys are a tough crowd. Think about this. McKlane had a basic framework to follow. Imagine how many people he would have had to contact had there been no previous documentation of Squamish climbing Jason and any cowriters have had to create something out of nothing. For them getting info was quite possibly much more problematic. Besides McKlane published his own guide and has total control. Jason is subject to the constraints imposed by the Mountaineers. I say three cheers for Jason et al! Hooray Hooray Hooray BTW: Buy the select guide to Squamish. A route by route comparison clearly shows its superiority.

Sorry for the thread drift but the last post reminded me of another group from the 70s or very early 80's whos ename would be sure to bring a smile to Caveman's and Mike Adams face: "The Dead Boys Mountaineering and Ammo CLub" There shirts had an ice axe crossed with a M16.

Whats about making prints. Any technologies to avoid or go after and how much is needed to buy a decent printer. How long do prints last? PP