Peter_Puget

A couple weeks ago I asked for info on the Valley View Crags and received some helpful beta. Here is a trip report on some other crags at 38. I know it's kinda goofy writing a trip report of these climbs but since they seem little known I thought someone might be inspired to check them out while the weather stays good. If you did all the italicized routes you'd have a really fun day of exciting climbing. They do appear on Deceptioncrags.com. If I think rating is different, I have put Deceptioncrags.com rating in (). Lost Resort: Left hand side has some fun routes. Right side looks not so good. Give Your Shelf… is ok strenuous not technical 5.11a (5.11c) Andante Favori - Continuous route very fun! Thin edges and good pro! Partner said reachy; I didn't think so. Probably easier than 10d. Appassionata Kind of a scary move/clip reachy. 5.10d (5.10c) Crescendo… Very fun route. Big holds at bottom crux near top. 5.11b Andante and Crescendo are worth the long approach by themselves! Alpinia Wall short cliff Aperture Very fun route. Great rock. Fun hole to grab! Worth the effort to hike from Bob's or Lost Resort. 5.10 (5.11a) Inverted…Gets too close to Aperture at the top still good continuous climbing. Only one good rest on the climb. All the clips that I thought would be hard weren't. Easier than the 11d rating. Green Buddah Fun stemming up a steep corner. 5.10c (5.11b) El Astronato The bad apple of this bunch but a fun warm up 5.9 (5.10b) Presto Palace Very short route (25 feet) Climbing is over before you know it. Slumbersome Ridge short cliff. To Crest The roof finish is terribly contrived. If you skirt around the roof the crux is at the start and is a slab. DC.com says these two following are overhanging - I didn't think so. Stemming Out Bolting two variation finishs is a bit goofy. Climbing not so great. Imbibing This is a short route but the rock is very good. Too bad this route doesn't continue on. 5.10+ (5.11b) The Stien Short. Fun climbing up a corner. Too bad the corner wasn't 100 feet long. Wouldn't go to this cliff again. [ 09-25-2002, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Georges Perec - The Void

3 almost 4 Months at Sea [ 09-25-2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

What's the story on this place: Salt Spring Island?

My guess is that Allison would be a nice thing! In the woods, at show or even online!

The Ballroom 7pm Drinking and checking out the hunny's I mean hotties. And then some bar hussin I mean hoppin. I'm the one with the roller skates!!! Come find me y'all.

Dwayner - Because common sense and friendly engagement are always in style!

A year or so ago I wrote quite critically of the Exit 38 area. My concern was the impact of land managers seeing 38 as a "model" of what climbers impact on an area will be. There has undeniably been a significant climber impact to the "38" region. I do not think that it would be much of a leap to think that a land manager would say "hey climbers have 38 which has been proclaimed as the best sport area in WA by many advocates so no bolts here at this new area. They already have 38." To me putting all our eggs in one basket is at best short sighted. It is even more of an egregious error when it is obvious that many consider 38 to be a good place for a workout but not really a super duper area. At the time nobody seemed to consider this fear of mine to be valid yet I am struck that Richard, a climber, has been pushing this view. Hyper development anywhere has ramifications everywhere. Because we personally prefer one area over another is hardly a good reason to limit bolting anywhere. One man's meat is another man's poison. Second Unrelated Issue: As far a retro-bolting goes I personally am of conflicted views on this. A onsight lead of a runout route generally should be respected. Think for example that old stand by Bachar Yerian or even You Asked For It. But imagine Mr. Bachar just running wild all over slabs essentially blocking out the future development of well protected easier routes. This would be nothing to be respected especially given the scarcity of virgin rock. Of course in this example I am assuming that the traditional onsight ascent is made. Most often here in Washington this manner of ascent is not used. The tradeoff I believe one makes in abandoning tradition is that the FA assumes the responsibility of making a well-crafted route. Anything else is simply goofy. ANY preinspection or knowledge of a route destroys anything of the traditional FA glory. While it is arguably permissible to remove bolts from a botched route why isn't it equally arguable to add of change bolt locations from a botched route? I say clearly it is! But yet..... [ 09-24-2002, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Hey Dwayner - You used those same lines on me! Get some new material! PP

Mr. Trask - Sex is great! But Allison transcends the vulgar joys of the flesh.

Sk - From your reply I think that you are not getting my point but that it is my in inability to articulate well.

SK - It is really quite simple those I call "friends" tend to care about my feelings and I tend to care about theirs. Since my friend's actions were causing me discomfort I was confident he would want to know it. So I told him my thoughts, we discussed it and he thought I was goofy but modified his actions because he realized I was being sincere. And guess what! We still climb together today! Although not as often as there are a few thousand miles between us. I would hope all our friends are so available to all of us. As a sidebar I would just say that over 20 years ago a tearful and shaking woman came up to me as I was bouldering and said:"your friend fell." My friend was merely a person I had a short conversation with at the base of a climb in a popular park in CA. I went off by myself and he started up his climb only to fall to the ground from near the top. He survived but was seriously injured. But I am afraid we have moved far afield from TG's initial post on this thread. PP

My soloing example was only to show how I view my responsibilty to the "unknown" other. Dru - Sometimes and in some areas soloing just isn't proper. Sk - Not sure what your post was replying to. The person I advised not to solo was a friend climbing with me at the time the advice was given. Let me add that I have soled a bit myself and I would and have chosen to do so in a manner that conforms to the advice I gave to my friend. Having seen a crumpled body at the base of a cliff I know some of the effects. You're right I know little about you. But I do know you seem to think it proper to solo a route after someone has expressed discomfort with you doing so. Simply put to solo so trivial or not so trivial route if I was causing distress to others is something I would not choose to do. This would be especially true if the route in question was something I had "dialed'. PP

I know it is overused but I have to write it: "Irresponsible is like porno; I know it when I see it." Sometimes I even like it but not all the time and in all situations. I do not recall being "upset" but do remember thinking the advice was irresponsible. In a given context many factors might contribute to something being deemed irresponsible. One important factor is the appearance of authority the person uttering the advice has or lacks. In my perspective TG has usually acted with more restraint and has offered more real advice on this site than many others. In view of this I felt his advice was more likely to be taken and thus in this case irresponsible. Had a goofy sprayer written the same thing I would not have responded. Not wanting to look back at the original thread, I will simply state that as I remember it a frustrated climber was suffering from nerves leading and was seeking a remedy. TG suggested a remedy that worked for him. To me advising a unknown person who is becoming scared to the point of failure on stuff they should be able to lead to solo easy stuff is simply irresponsible. Whether we like it or not our advice and actions do have unintended consequences. Back in the 70s I had a partner who use to solo all the time. We got into many arguments when I would ask him to stop if others were around. My reasoning was that he was being a jerk to risk falling in front of others who had no say in his actions. If we were by ourselves, I let him solo away. As with posting advice the context was everything.

Back to back is the way to go. Ah - "the Soul and Barbed Wire" always thought that would be a good route name. PP

DFA - I'll take that beer. Gulag is easy try:A la Recherche Du Temps Perdu. Much more of a challenge. I'll let you know when I am at Smith.

Well part of the weekend All good things have to end I guess

And by the way Cavey is a complete liar - he really can climb! Don't believe his I hang alot line. Cavey can climb and even more important he is strong enough tocarry all the beer in!

You should take the clue _ Axes are aid! Mountaineering is aid climbing GO CORDLESS! Its the spirituality, beauty, power, mental challenge of climbing distilled without the BS.

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Add a post here if you actually called or did something to help catch these evil bandits. Please keep spray out! [ 09-20-2002, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

OK LUCKY write a well worded explanation of what your experiences have been and post/send it to the links below. Encourage others to complain. Call King County Sherrif and ask them what has to be done to get something to happen. Come on CC.comers you can either spray on here or engage in more advanced spraying by actually complaining to somebody that might be able to do something. State Parks This is info line call this to get Ollalie Park number I tried but was put on hold. 360-902-8844. If someone gets it please post it here. Sherrif North Bend Substation 206.296.0612 Email King County Here request an email reply let them know you will post the reply on CC.com: http://www.metrokc.gov/comments/comment.cfm seattle times outdoor message board: http://boards.nwsource.com/mb/user/thread.html Some B Boards: http://mtncommunity.org/ http://www.eskimo.com/57Epc22/CC/Bboard/wwwboard.html WTA.org Seattle Times NW Weekends Editor Brian Cantwell 206.748-5724 BCantwell@Seattletimes.com [ 09-20-2002, 08:49 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Just a follow up: I purchased something found out it wasn't the right size. Sent it back Saturday and the replacement arrived Thursday.

Only Flick read this: Flick for insults and trolls to work they must have at least the appearance of the truth. Your posts remind me of a young child claiming someone is a "poo poo" head. The insult just is ineffectual but does reflect on the mental development of the one hurling the insults. Please try harder! For two vastly different online styles that might help to "show you the ropes" I would check out Cavey's barrage against Lambone or any of Donna Top Step's initial postings. PP [ 09-18-2002, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Flick - leave cavey outta this! And I sense a slight negative tone to your posting. I say free yourself from those simple and BS stereotypes forced on us by Cosmo or that scoundrel Versace. Physical beauty comes in all shapes and sizes. Don't limit yourself to one colr when there is a whole rainbow. Plus it's just not nice to be such a bore. PP [ 09-18-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]