Peter_Puget

Ok Rumr here is a bit of my “master plan” Now until 2004 - loose weight and work on one arm. November to 2004 - strengthen fingers and tendons 2004 - climbing gym a lot and work campusing into the mix! June 2004 – WORLD DOMINATION! PP

Are you crazy??!?!?! Snakes freak me out. I can't even stand the aproach to Careno crag, so I am pretty much stuck climbing on the westside. Just glad I don't climb in Australia. PP

Link

one word: akumamatata

Two Words: John Woo

"I think Joe Stalin was a guy that was hugely misunderstood. And to this day, I don't think I have ever seen an adequate job done of telling the story of Joe Stalin, so I guess my answer would have to be Joe Stalin." - actor, Ed Asner, responding to the question, "If you had the chance to play the biographical story of a historical figure you respected most over your lifetime, who would it be?" Link PP

From the BBC 2002 August - Libya says it is ready, in principle, to pay compensation to families of victims of the Lockerbie bombing. 2003 January - Libya is elected chairman of the United Nations Human Rights Commission despite opposition from the US and human rights groups. 2003 August - Libyan government and lawyers representing families of Lockerbie bombing victims sign compensation agreement worth $2.7bn. Libya formally takes responsibility for the bombing in a letter to the UN Security Council. 2003 September - UN Security Council votes to lift sanctions against Libya. From MEMRI: October 4, 2003 speech delivered to women in the city of Sabha, by Col. Mu'ammar Al-Qaddafi: The war changed and moved from the battlefields we learned about in books, into the homes. In the past, soldiers fought soldiers, and today soldiers fight women and children in Baghdad and Gaza...As long as the woman is home and she is the one targeted, she must be trained...The woman must be trained how to fight within the home, how to put together an explosive belt and blow herself up together with the enemy soldiers. Anyone who has a car must make preparations and know how to booby trap it and turn it into a car bomb...In the past they would say [to us in Libya]: "Why do you train the women? It is not logical that the woman will go out to the battlefield..." Today the face of the battle has changed, and the arenas of fighting have moved to the place where the woman is...We must train the women how to booby-trap the car and blow it up among the enemy, how to blow up the house so it falls on the enemy soldiers. Traps must be prepared. You have seen how [the enemy] check luggage. These suitcases should be rigged so that when they open them they blow up. The women must be taught how to booby-trap their clothes closets, booby-trap their purses, booby-trap their shoes, booby-trap the children's toys, so they blow up on the enemy soldiers.

What need have I for this? What need have I for that? I am climbing this weekend. All is bliss. All is bliss. PP

There are some new aid routes.

Get oputta that liberal straight jacket! link

PP

I took writing lessons from ERIK!

LOl It's funny I was reading a interview in an old mountain. I think the one from '77? (#63)with the Squamich article. The interview was with Mike Graham at the end of a vacation climbing trip to England. It was funny how the english habits of TR'ing and preinspecting were brought up explicitly as poor ethics! Britain is such a small freakign place and yet there are a million really strong guys there. Anyone who travels to europe will be shocked at how many more climbers are sending hard routes. When the ground uppers start freeing walls or at least giving good efforts, the TRers will be as scarce as rap bolters at Curbar. PP

My point is simply that in the future tr'ing and tr practice will be seen in the same light as the use of fixed ropes were on the fa of the Dihedral Wall. It is not a question of runouts but of style. I am not making a case against runouts. I simply am asserting that the tr and rehearsal methods of the Hubers will be considered to be in poor style in a few years and the ground up ethic will be the cutting edge. Time will tell.

I believe Guitar Craft uses a nonstanding tuning of the guitar.

Dru you are you being serious? For example, Huber used a "beak" to protect a line. Beaks simply were not available when the FA was done. Many routes he has freed were first done with pitons. He freely uses clean gear as well as pins. One of Huber's goal is to make a runout route. That is fine I just think it is a goofy way to do things. I never suggested that those who might want to add bolts would be doing so from the ground up. I have simply said that at times Huber's style is to my mind impressive from a physical perspective but as a matter of style a bit poor. I wasn't Yadayada dissing the redpoint but your argument supporting it.

The point is not to "create runout routes" but to "respect the original ascent style by avoiding the addition of new fixed gear which would detract from the original ascent". Ya Ya ya Dru that is patent nonesense. To TR and preinspect a route established from the ground up in order to respect the orginal ground up fa is flat out goofy. Anyway....

Just got around to seeing this thread I know of several ascents but none have continued to the top which seems to be a couple hundred feet of broken and forested rock. Personally I covet the second ascent of NW Passage!

am not against preinspection but I do think that tr’ing and preinspection combined to create runout routes is BS and will eventually be seen as a bogus way to climb. Certainly Huber's ascents are impressive. I have even posted some of his achievements on this site. I just happen to think that he looses some style points sometimes. What is the deal w/ Cobra crack? I saw it mentioned on another board but didn't read the thread.

You mena after extensive tr'ing and presinspection. What about the bottom 40' of 10% - steep, clean and hard. PP

Timmy you keep sounding like a gs is a bad thing!

Yep those nice guy look out for us all liberals advocating last century solutions to current problems are at it again. After a series of economic miscalcualtions that were so inept as to be outright deceptions they do this: link Forget the AG lookout for these guys!

PP

It's even worse than you thought! Shocking! PP

Yosemite?