Peter_Puget

How did Aliens get their name?

Crack n ups = a small hook aimed directly at your cheek!

BP-Check out the STP. It's a great route - a bit harder and continuous than than Lovin' Arms. Unless we get another bout of sunny weather it may be a bit wet tho. PP

Good timeline Dru. I think however saying C & F invented the hex is a bit of a stretch given that the Brits were using nuts (as in nuts and bolts) years before. I have some crack-n-ups somewhere. Those things were scary!

I have the SMC Camlock and the Peck but not a hex like that. Here is a picture of a drilled and a non drilled. The drilled was 70's vintage and the non drilled either late 70's or early 80's. The drilled cam is thicker than the non drilled. It is not just because of the sizes I chose to compare. And for grins here is a prototype TCU model by Metolius and an early Alien by CCH. PP

I meant made by Choiunard. We shoudl all get together an create an image gallery of old gear!

Bug -When did you get them? I don't remember Hex ever being symetrical.

I think the material on the drilled hexes was thicker than the current material.

Try the rest and rehab that others have recommended and if you find yourself in a constant cycle of rehabing don’t spend too much time screwing around go see an ortho guy and have an imaging study performed. Remember that most of the terms used such as “impingement syndrome” are very general. For some problems with the AC rehab will not work. Link PP

Was it an Ortho Physician or a GP? Was an imagining study performed?

Tim - Small World is by far the best of the bunch.

A short climb well worth the easy approach. It's a really fun slightly overhanging crack. Starts as a finger size flake and then turns into an off finger/thin hand splitter crack for a couple of hard jams. Great protection. Since the fun (but short) cracks on the left side of Eight-Mile Buttress are only a few minutes away this area has some of the best cracks in the Leavenworth. Too bad they weren't another 50' longer. PP

Why Do Americans Work So Much More Than Europeans? Edward C. Prescott Federal Reserve Bank of Minneapolis Research Department Staff Report 321 (September 2003) Abstract: Americans now work 50 percent more than do the Germans, French, and Italians. This was not the case in the early 1970s when the Western Europeans worked more than the Americans. In this paper, I examine the role of taxes in accounting for the differences in labor supply across time and across countries, in particular, the effective marginal tax rate on labor income. The population of countries considered is that of the G-7 countries, which are major advanced industrial countries. The surprising finding is that this marginal tax rate accounts for the predominance of the differences at points in time and the large change in relative labor supply over time with the exception of the Italian labor supply in the early 1970s. See also Prescott's Richard T. Ely Lecture

Can't will be working everyday this weekend is an unexpected break for me

Just told my boss I am working tomorrow and got permission to go out climbing Sunday. I am too weak to climb with you anyways as I cant climb more than 10a right now. I heard you were driving to Smith for a day! Now I gotta find someone to go with me Sunday

The thing I find intimidating about trad climbing isn't going above my pro per se but convincing myself that I won't regret getting somewhere. That is to say it is not fear of the pro I have placed but fear of not being able to place pro later the route. [Of course being an out of shape wanker doesn't give me much confidence that I could hang out long enough to figure something out if I got into a jam either.] PP

So maybe it's a feeling of loss of control while on the bolted climb. Right now I would have no hesitation trying to lead most .12 routes at Indian Creek and yet I would succeed at none of them. I wouldnt hesitate simply because I could control my own destiny so to speak by placing pro whenever I wanted – when I would fail I would simply hang. Do you think that a trad route without obvious protection placements visible from below be more intimidating to you than the crack route you lead?

...

So Minx what 5.9 crack was it? COuld you place pro anywhere on it? Was is sustained? Strenuous? What was the 5.9 bolted? How was it bolted? Were there ledges you were concerned with hitting?

I rember when you had to place gear on the lower part of Heinous.

I was thinking the same thing Cracked. In rereading this thread I would offer one suggestion with regard to Alex's post. Many times it is appropriate to "dirt and untie" don't confuse determination and "go for it" with skill and appropriate behavior. PP

Leavenworth Sunday!!!!!

J_B - This shirt's for you - be a real radical! PP

The answer depends on what you mean by bolted. Leading a “bolted” route at 38 is different than leading a “bolted’ route at the Meadows. In general I find sport type bolt jobs easier to lead than gear routes. The other day I was thinking about how to get better at leading and I decided that what I needed to do was do a wide variety of easier gear routes. The key I theorize is picking a series of routes with different climbing styles and protection requirements. Leading a harder crack climb with trivial protection requirements will do nothing to improve my leading head and may be counter productive because I get too use to bomber pro whenever I want it. Just need to get out and do those routes now. PP