Peter_Puget

I was being serious. Colt makes it sound like some low angle slab on the Squamish apron. Seems more like "crank & go" to me. Any thoughts on the ground being "ground down" by all the traffic? Maybe making the start harder. There are some good problems to the left too.

Probably never. No one can really climb 5.12. There is a section on the Wilderness Pass that you are required to tear off, note details of all 5.12 ascents and return to the Forest Service. However, since this route is not 5.12, the FS has no records concerning it.

Stop over thinking and just climb!

when you can get the crap direct?

Went to the Dime and Five cliff on Saturday. Climbed some cracks and then Tr’d them into submission. Woke up Sunday with very sore fingers. It took all I had just to hold a cold bottle of beer.

Ya know you can make functional aiders pretty easily and save $$$.

Hey I just bought, well ordered, 100 of the 1/4" and now I find out they are not good. Guess it's back to Z-macs. But speaking of drilling anyone with an old Hurricane bit holder that wants to sell it send me a pm. I am sick of grinding bits to fit the old Rawl holder.

Does this Fox News update Iranian Fighters Found Among Hezbollah Dead, Israeli TV Reports mean more bike riders?

Jayb you have a real estate fetish. Take a break!

What's up with all these rules? First you start making rules concerning how we post about climbing and soon you'll be making rules on how to climb! I go climbing to get away from jokers like you.

It is but at almost 10 minutes in length, it is definately beyond the attention span of the average cc.comer.

Been a busy week and I just realized I hadn't posted anything for Oly so.... Lecture for Oly!

Where is it?

I wonder if people will start finding issues with the 1 ½” rigid section right below the cams. Seems like it could be an issue in shallow or non-vertical cracks

I brought up several points. Admittedly some were brought up in an oblique manner. First, it appears that you are making a claim that proximity is the defining factor of being local. On some simple level I agree but I a more meaningful sense this argument is BS that simply dissolves into a “surf nazi” mentality. I have been to Beacon 2x year (on average) since the first Thomas guide - ~60 trips. I bet I will continue to go there for years to come. Assuming an average season of 7/15-10/31, a “local” would have to go every weekend during the season for over four years to have gone as much as I have. To me it is nonsense to believe that the “Local” has anymore “right” to control Beacon than say me. It seems that everyone has an equal right to be involved, whether they have any influence is simply a matter of how they are organized and how much effort the put forth. Local in your eyes seems to be “those who agree with JH”. Second, I can care less about sport climbing issues. But you do seem to again make the claim that non-locals (Seattle?) making an attempt at opening Beacon to sport climbing. I am not aware of any attempt by Seattlites to turn Beacon into anything. It’s a Wa State Park. I would think the Parks Department would agree that Wa residents should have input into how their parks are run. That the BRCA filled primarily with Oregon residents actively discourages input from “non-local” WA residents is something I find interesting about the whole affair. Go ahead fight the good fight but so much of the fight seems to be simply tilting at windmills. Third and perhaps most importantly I believe that BRCA has a responsibility to broadcast its activities and goals throughout the climbing community which includes the use of the web. You have been doing this. I was inspired to post in an effort to encourage you not to stop when Kevbone was asking you to. I have no desire to get involved with all the petty arguments going on at Beacon. I appreciate the clean-ups and bolt replacement. I wonder if reduced activity levels at Beacon this year might be the result of people being turned off by the tone of the postings. By the way I have been to Beacon once this year.

Please don't underestimate the benefits of smoking related weight loss.

Save the Roadhouse for later..I just realized I can t do anyting weeknights for two weeks. But the Roadhouse is in Magnolia.

I first climbed at Beacon back when the first Thomas guide was new. Climbed there on average several times a year since then. Sometimes years would go by with no climbing other times I’d go a bunch. All this locals only talk makes me wonder just what is a local? Seems like the easiest definition as far as these discussions go is: A local is someone who wants everyone else to climb somewhere else. One theme Jh keeps bringing up is that there was an issue with control from “Seattle.” I think that this is simply another way to say: “My Beach.” In others words I call BS on this. Add up the times I have climbed at Beacon. (Thomas guide came out late 70s) Any group representing "climbers "should represent people like me as well.

RoadHouse!

Tindersticks

Also the name of a route started back in the 80's and just attempted again last weekend.

Jeesh you guys. I have messed up a boatload of cams over the years; including almost every generation of Friend and several generations of Metolius. Gear breaks if you’re using it hard.

There is an old visionary route left of Green Drag. As far as heads look on the web for detailed instructions (Supertopo had them once) and then go to a boat store with a press and make your own. It is cheaper doing it yourself. I have made dozens and never had one fail. If you made them, you could call them Hamster Heads!

Al-Maliki has a 55 percent approval rating. What's GWB’s? Don't get snart with me!

linky