Peter_Puget

Darn. I was hoping to get some actual feedback on the USHBA bolts. The glue USHBA recommends is no longer (for several years) available. There are other glues available. If you use hilti adhesives, I think you will have to buy a Hilti glue gun as well. Orienting the bolt in the direction of the pull is important. The size of the bolt is so large that it can be an issue on certain climbs - particularly if they are not steep/overhanging. If the bolt is not aligned with the angle of the pull it is very easy for the bolt to become a spinner. In softer rock many create small channels to lock in the bolt and prevent spinners. This also helps to solve the large size problem. As Bill notes the USHBA bolts are fairly shallow.

Hey Bill how do you find the Ti bolts work? Installationwise and in use.

A few comments about the route: it is very steep and the rock is a bit different from the surrounding crags but no worse and in fact better than much of the rock in the Cascades. (mountains and cragging) It is not a typical crack where you can place something almost anywhere you want. This gear “failure” seems to simply point out how uncertain anyone can be about how strong/secure a placement is.

Thanks for the stars FW. G-spot I just know you have a secret vinyl collection of Sparks in your closet!

No they suffer because of overreaching regulations that choke off the ability of Microsoft to produce cheap and high utility upgrades

Ever wonder what's behind the invisible hand? Higss was the best climbing partner ever!

Thanks God some things don't change

to global warming!

So fess up what are you all doing? If it's secret like the Craig Gyselinck Buttress, just say something truthful yet vague.

He's the guy in the van at the base of IB.

Anyone else think he'd be a perfect cc.com sprayer?

OK I'll admit that I believe that I have never heard "Megadeth" but lately I have been getting into live recordings of the Byrds. (1968-70 period) Great band!

Ok So they're not Slayer.....

DUDE!

Nope it's not a 5.9 flake. Keep the shit rollin' boys!

I can't help but ask what you thought of Waverly Wafer? EDIT:

Maybe this thread should be merged into this one to create the super bitch thread.

well..kinda

Can this be true....

Hey CBS press the English button! Check this out. Martin should sue: Here's JayB's guilty pleasure: Silliness

"Summits? We don't need no stinkin' Summits." It is a well documented fact that the coolest guys rap after cruxes.

Just released.....

I was being serious. Colt makes it sound like some low angle slab on the Squamish apron. Seems more like "crank & go" to me. Any thoughts on the ground being "ground down" by all the traffic? Maybe making the start harder. There are some good problems to the left too.

Probably never. No one can really climb 5.12. There is a section on the Wilderness Pass that you are required to tear off, note details of all 5.12 ascents and return to the Forest Service. However, since this route is not 5.12, the FS has no records concerning it.

Stop over thinking and just climb!