Lambone

edit: ok, you guys beeat me to it... TLG, Go with a set of HB Offset Nuts first, small brass through large aluminum. They are invaluable, I don't even carry regular nuts in Yosemite. Get a couple of cam hooks, mid size. They are cheap, and if you learn to trust them early, you will use them as much if not more than anything else. Aliens are what you want for small cams. Go with one set of regular and one set of offset to start. For big cams I go with 1 set of Camolots doubled with a lighter cam like Metolius or Wild Country. Don't forget some regular hooks, a Talon, Cliffhanger, and 1 big hook will get you by on most routes. Some routes you need doubles. Most Yosem Walls have at least some fixed heads. Take either some heads and a hammer or a good cheaterstick. Some other trinkets that can be usefull are Trango Ball-Nuts - the smaller ones, duck tape and Tie-off webbing. I might think of more stuff in a minute. Most importantly, go with the suggested rack in the supertacos book...they are almost allways spot on.

If anyone wants info on easy mixed routes in Hyalite, let me know and I'll send it to ya. There are alot of new bolted lines from M4-M7.

Trundle, Lummox knows exactly why he was edited. We are nnot going to go there again. I will not let every good thread about mixed climbing turn into a bolt debate. If you have nothing but crap to contribute, expect you crap to end up in the garbage can, simple as that. Some people are actualy interested in mixed climbing, and would like to read a positive thread on it once in a while.

Yeah, I saw that BC mag photo in the Calgary airport...its of the smears right of Carlsberg in Lilooet. Nice photos dale, hard to say who looks more badass, you or Kristie! Seagull looks gnar!

Since it came up...here is our little boat. Catalina Capri 22 hull 1033. She still needs a name... We plan on club racing her once we are not so suck and get a spiniker.

whoa! crazy photo

Will, you're highjacking my thread! Ray, I'll give you more than what Will offers, or I'll trade ya a pair of BD Bionics. Oh, forgot...you hate BD.

Will, After being on the other end of that stick for almost three years, I can say that it is no fun for either party. You want to hook up climbing bros as much as you can, cause they are just fellow dirbags looking for a good pump. But then you have this thing called a boss who actually wants you to charge money and shit...what to do? As far as all the logistical shit like belay tests and waivers, just get over it and sign the damn thing. Gyms have rules for reasons, so that people who tend to do stupid things and get themselves and others hurt, maybe won't...but they do anyway. Do you really expect that Gyms allow non-proffesional instructors to teach in their facility? One minute you've giot guides trying to get their clients ready for Rainier, the next minute you have some meathead trying to get his hot date ready for the belay test. Sure there are circumstances when it might be ok, probly in your case...but you can't pick and choose...ya got to make a rule and stick to it. Otherwise it is not a fair policy. If ya wan't respect as a proffesional ya gotta stick to it...othersise they start calling you Stoner Gardens... At least you have a good gym to go to...you should check out the Medford rock gym sometime! Every hold is one of three different types of metolious jug, and the routes are set by 10 year old girls. The gym has potential but the holds and routes just fail to get me psyched...I'm either going to need to go in and set my own, or build a garage gym, probably the later....so fuckin hard to keep in shape in the winter...

I think they are pretty similar. Try the Megas on... Cracked, ditto.

Diarreha is pretty annoying...in some circumstance it kills. But constipation hurts like a motherfucker. Thats what I get for smoking for a week and quiting cold turkey...

yeah, Pear Izumi makes some nice stuff actually, kind of overlooked by climbers, I baught a pair of insulated climbing gloves this fall that I used iceclimbing in Canada, worked just as good as any BD glove.

Banff, ate Turkey with 28 family members in Tahoe, skied ice at Kirkwood with me wifey. She has pretty new skis with flowers on them and thinks she can ski twice as good now...whatever works I guess!

Hey guys...(marylou, beck, cracked, joshk, etc...) Allthough your spray is good natured...which is a nice change, it does not belong in the gear critic forum. I am going to continue to keep this forum on topic and gear related, so save us both the trouble and keyboard time and move your personal discussions to the chat room or Spray or something. Thanks much, Bone BTW- some good info in this thread, keep it up! Sure it's only nylon were talking about but gearheads don't discriminate!

PARTY

sweet thanks Scottp, for some reason that didn't turn up in my search earlier. I'm going to try for those...

I have the Tempest. It is the cheapest Bibler, it comes with two built in vestibules and has room for 2+ maybe even 3. It weighs about 1lb more than an Eldorado with a vestibule, but has more room and 4 poles for strength. It is not an ultralight tent for tiny alpine bivi ledges, but it is awsome for just about everything else.

We saw a party climbing Whimper Wall while we were gearing up for Weeping. Looks like a cool route, and would make a good alternative if Weeping Wall was crowded. 4+ is a stretch for the smear left of Louise Falls. Solid 3 in my opinion, with all the traffic it has gotten it climbs like a step ladder...it's thin though, careful with the screws!

I am building up an approach ski for ice climbing...need some cheap bindings. I prefer Silverettas because they clip into climbing boots the best. I wish they still made 300's. Anyone have an old pair they don't use anymore?

Yeah, all you need is a light sleeping bag and a hardy gut. You'd have no problem finding a trekking companion in the tourist district of Kathmandu. I'd stay away from the guiding agencies, most of them are pretty shadey buisnesses. You could easily be selfsufficient...I was just meaning that it'd be smart to have a friend to trek with.

I have some Scholler stuff that I prefer to wear as outer layers when ice climbing...but still I just can't seem to leave the Gor-tex shell in the car. I prefer to have it just incase it's snowing hard, or the pillars are dripping wet. It's more fun to climb in softshell stuff though, gore-tex make me feel like a gimp, and it ussualy wet's out just as much.

Technicaly no, but you can get around most anything there with some traveler savy. I wasn't going to mention this, but when we were in Lang Tang we saw many signs posted by the British embassy about a Brit solo treker who was mugged and stabbed to death, they found his body in the river. Pretty sad... Not that it isn't possible, but you take your chances, same with going through the slums of New York in the middle of the night. You just have to smart about what you do, and the situations you put yourself in. Personaly I would feel uncomfortable alone, if I were female I would be double worried about it. On a bright note, Spring is a great time to be there! After May you get some awsome weather! And some rain/snow

nice web site Eric!

Right on Eric, hey was that "Websters Smear" route at Lake Louise just left of Louise Falls. Fun route, felt like a three to me, very picked out....must have been getting tons of traffic. Need to sharpen my pics after that one! Hope your ladyfriends knee feels better!

Can't help ya....but Bozeman Rocks, you'll style it