Lambone

Out with the old, in with the new. Welcome to procrastination world Kathy! Spray is cool, but people who only spray kinda suck. So, no I'm not heartbroken, my life will go on as usual. Too bad they didn't give Larson the boot. His meaningless attacks are for the birds. [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: Enough of this for me. Unwarranted speculation as to my strength . I should have dumped this bunch long ago. See ya out there . For everyones information, Dan fits the profile for those in the #1 risk category for heart attacks. Try not to stress him out too much. Larson, Mabye one day you will realize that physical strength is not the factor that defines proficient climbers. True strength comes from within the heart, and the mind. Some people use the herb to aid their search for that strength. The fact that you do not puff doesn't make you any better than them. You are the type of person that we look to avoid while "out there." P.S.- The only amunition that you have in your little spray war is from the day that we met at the gym. Let me remind you what you originally said about that experience:http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=23&t=000101 Who's doing the name calling, and hiding behind anonymity now Larson? The fact that you disabled your PM's reinforces the fact that YOU SUCK. [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Just repeating myself... Ya know, I usualy rave about Black Diamond equipment. I have never had a piece of BD gear fail on me before, until...I invested in some new Android leashes this year. Some of my friends swear by them, and they seemed great when I first used them. So I took the leashes up to Baker to try them out and guess what happens. They fall apart! On the first day out!! Here is what happend, and those of you who own these leashes should WATCH OUT! The little clevis pin that holds the spring that keeps the thumb latch closed FELL OUT! Yep, it just fell right out for no apparent reason. The pin, spring, and thumb latch droped into the snow. Luckily it happened while I was eating a cliff bar...It took me a half an hour of fussing and frozen fingers to get it put back together temporarily, now it is all bent and tweaked out. I would hate to be on a serious pitch and have this happen. Imagine being run out at your limit and having one of your leashes instantly disapear! Personaly I like to have the choice of climbing with or without leashes. Nonetheless I still think the concept kicks ass! I may try to repair them myself, cause I don't think that getting a new pair from warrenty would help much. I don't see why this would not happen with every Android leash produced. If you have a pair, BE CAREFULL! Check them out closely and make sure the same thing won't happen to you on your next desperate lead. Side note: The spikes on the BD carbon fiber tools are just glued into place. They will not hold any type of falling force. Don't do it... Also, unless you clip in directly below your tools you run the risk of bending the picks. For example, my buddy use to clip into his old Rambo's at the belay; once he had them over to the side, leaning his body weight against them caused enough torque to ruin both picks. [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

hmmmmm....weird. You ever consider writting you own book on avalanches? I'd buy it

I plan on calling them tommorow. But my concern is, what is going to keep the same thing from happening again? I was thinking about sodering the pin in place. It is not a load bearing piece, I am just worried that the soder would inhibit the movement of the latch.

Pardon me toby, but what is a creep-slump fracture? I've never heard that term before... Sounds like fun, glad you got some good turns in!

Ya know, I usualy rave about Black Diamond equipment. I have never had a piece of BD gear fail on me before, until... I invested in some new Android leashes this year. Some of my friends swear by them, and they seemed great when I first used them. So I took the leashes up to Baker to try them out and guess what happens. They fall apart! On the first day out!! Here is what happend, and those of you who own these leashes should WATCH OUT! The little clevis pin that holds the spring that keeps the thumb latch closed FELL OUT! Yep, it just fell right out for no apparent reason. The pin, spring, and thumb latch droped into the snow. Luckily it happened while I was eating a cliff bar...It took me a half an hour of fussing and frozen fingers to get it put back together temporarily, now it is all bent and tweaked out. I would hate to be on a serious pitch and have this happen. Personaly I like to have the choice of climbing with or without leashes. Nonethe less I still think the concept kicks ass! I may try to repair them myself, cause I don't think that getting a new pair from warrenty would help much. I don't see why this would not happen with every Android leash produced. If you have a pair, BE CAREFULL! Check them ot closely and make sure the same thing won't happen to you on your next desperate lead. [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Keep fishin' Dan... Your dull insults do not bother me. In fact, I need not waste my time trying to make you look like a total lame ass, you're doing a great job on your own. Keep up the good work. This is the Climbing Gym Forum, I provided some info on a new gym in the area. I don't realy know any of the new employees in Bremerton, but they all seem super nice. Yeah, I like coffee Who doesn't? [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Wow, that's a cool zone! The headwall beckons. Got to meet Philfort and friends! BTW- The road is fine, except for one HUGE boulder that you must drive around. Above tree line there is 4-6 inches of new dry snow on top of an old rain crust. The rivers don't pose too much trouble, poles help. As Climzalot said, Survey rock is the way to go- super mellow. The ice is nice and firm, just like the Rockies in January, fun stuff! Thanks for the info folks. Andy, I thought that most of the big chunks of blue ice looked pretty stable. Not much was moving around this time of year, it was nice and quiet up there. Due to a lack of time, we ended up toproping some old dirty ice that had rocks in it. My picks were not happy... [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yep, kinda cheesy...but Gary's cool.

Shut up you fuckin' tool

After looking at some photo's of the Icefall I realize that my former question is a bit silly. It's no secret wher the ice is. I hope the road isn't still snowed in.

I have found that supple ropes totaly suck in the winter(Blue Water ). They just freeze up and become ice cables anyway...

Hmmm...good tip Andy, thanks! I would be inclined to do the opposite, 'cause I like pretty blue ice

I have been fondeling my cobras ever since they arived in the mail. I can't keep my hands off. I might take them to bed with me... Oh yeah, I slept with my first pair of skis too

Oh yeah, DAN LARSON SUCKS!DAN LARSON SUCKS!DAN LARSON SUCKS!DAN LARSON SUCKS!DAN LARSON SUCKS!

Aidan, Man, I wish I could remember high school...Funny thing is that it wasn't all that long ago. Thats about the only regret I have towards puffin' da ganga. I don't know about the whole 4X as many carcinogens theory, sounds like Marbro propaganda to me. Don't believe everything they teach you in that there institution! But hey, its rad that you're stickin to your guns and not followin the crowd. Keep it up and you'll go far. Respect dawg, Peace Out. P.S. Ice, Ice baby, too cold too cold... (I wish I could remember the rest!)

Jay, The Stratos are the way to go! They are a 9mm chord, have a stiff hand, and hold up to tons of abuse. The core is woven with an extra filiment which makes the rope less prone to failing over a sharp edge. I think they pass the UIAA edge test, but don't quote me on that. Two thums up, they are bomber! But hella expensive... Wet and warm here, should set up well if it ever gets cold

Ok, screw it I'm headed there on Saturday. Any special tips on getting to the best Seracs? Can you eye ball good spots from the trail? It sounds like you just hook a left where the trail forks just above tree line, then hump it about a mile east to the ice. S'dat da way? Hope to see yall up there! Word [ 11-15-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: What did the Cobra say to the Quark? ooops [ 11-15-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: What did the Cobra say to the Quark? What?

Avatars don't coun't, its got to be the real deal. But I'm happy in third, I'll never even attempt to catch you dorks.

cobra...

Yeah, see...I'm not crazy! They must have some funky equipment out there...

COBRA!COBRA!COBRA!