Lambone

That reminds me... In the new Climbing there is a feature about Dean Potter's ascent of the Nose in 3:59 or some shit. The article says he usd a "ultralight homade webbing harness." But it is pretty obvious in the photos that he is wearing a run of the mill BD harness. I just thought that was kinda funny.

Hey will, did you ever see that interview with Tucker Tech when he talks about how he only uses a webbing swami for walls, with no leg loops. He claims that big wall harnesses make you lazy and slow. I guess my point is that everyone has there own opinion of what works and what doesn't. [ 02-07-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

No shit R+I sucks. And whats up with the whole facial add campaign....I dont wanna by some NoFace peace of crap because Lynn Hill or Bet Rodden uses it. If they were to show me some sweet pictures of cool routes then I'd be impressed. Climbing isn't much better, but I like their topic selection and writting compared to R + I.

Dwayner, My previous major was in Fish and Wildlife Management, so I'd have to say that I am quite impressed in the vast job market for geographers, relative to that field. I feel as I have taken a step up in the food chain so to speak. I know I should be studying computer science or engineering of some sort, but as you can see by my spelling, attention to detail is not my strong point. I figure that in order to complete school I'm going to need to study something that holds my intrests. Otherwise I'd probably just go live in the Valley again. Unfortunately, due to the size of my student loan debt, that is not a realistic option. Unless I accept the identity of a new avatar, and keep running from "the man." Oh, and I did my first "real" alpine route many many years before I redpointed my first bolted 11a. But thats another story... [ 02-07-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Teah, March is pretty early to get up high...the road to Toulomne ussualy opens around memorial Day. The cables on Half Dome won't be up in March either. Yosemite point will be your best bet then. Take him across the traverse off the Lost Arrow Spire! Wait...where did dan say he was going in March???

Never mind...it was sending me to the thread for the avalanch report....?

Why do I get sent here when i click on Dru's post about stolen gear in Lilooet? Is that happening to anyone else?

Oh yeah, right on!

BTW- My "sycophantic, semi-educated minion" TA is working on a PHD and has been studying Geography for more than 8 years. I value her opinion and advice much more than drunk ol Proffessor Dwayners.

-Yosemite Point...start early to avoid the masses.-Half Dome Cables Route...Ditto.-Mt. Dana...super nice view of Mono lake and the high country. -Definately go up into the Cathedral peak basin...Blue lake(???)-Mt. Conness, walk up...the zone up by North peak is really nice as well, up past Saddlebag lake.-Hike up to the base (the top ain't worth the hike)of El Cap with trash bag, just to gain a different perspective. May want a helmet!-Easy fricton slabs to the top of Fairview Dome, wear sticky shoes. Those are just a few off the top of my head. All are nice day trips. Have Fun! [ 02-07-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, lots o but wipe. But he gets up shit and makes you laugh all day, Homey's cool!

Yeah, thats really tough to do...just open another browser and log in with you alias. Lambone has spoken

Better bring an extra headlamp for James...and an extra role of duck tape. And make him lead everything!

Weird Science!

There is only one Lambone...

Naw dude, I laugh at Michael Knights hair!

ooops [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Ahhh...nice! Yeah, and whoever gets them all right will get a free shot of tequila at pub club. Right on, good idea!

Don't listen to Dru...he climbs on those silly Charlet things. Get cobras, hands down. I saw Jim Nelson lead Icy BC with Leashless light machines. He said he really liked it. he also has a demo pair at his shop if ya wanna check them out.

Me too dan, I's just fuckin wit ya. Good luck with the conditions. What happend with the Rainer plans eh?

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Hey Lambone, Sorry to poison your thread, but there aren't that many of us online anyway and the others have probably already commented if they wanted to . . . No worries bro, I wasn't trying to dis ya or anything. I have only used Ballnutz aid climbing on Granite, I still haven’t been to S.Utah As you said, most of the shiftyness was felt in flaring pin scars. Usually it'd be picked up on quickly with a few bounces, but sometimes it'd just shift outa the blue! As I said these pieces are a great alternative for thin blades (ie. nipple pitch of Zodiac, great roof etc.) but I find them to be time consuming to place and clean. Especially if you are trying to reach way up, or over to place them and can't see if the "Ball" is seated properly. Cam hooks are the best quicker alternative, but that’s another story...talk about shifty The durability issue comes from cleaning them with a nut tool repetitively. This tends to screw up the wires and everything, especially if it is buried in a thin pin scar. My buddy sheared the "Ball" off of one by tapping the nut tool on the wrong side (hit the nutz side, not the ball side). I see how they’d be better for free climbing since you wouldn’t have to hammer ‘em out unless you fell on ‘em, but on aid I’ve always welded them with just one bounce, or had them blow and freak me out! Hope that answers what you were looking for. Takersleezy! [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Dude you'll have a blast! Don't miss the drive through liqour stores! Some fat classics that are not to be missed:Bozo's Revenge 3ish, pretty mellowDuck Soup- another of the sameMiami Ice- short but much steeperHorstail Falls 5 sweet pillarMoonrise + High on Boulder Bottom is big, fat and fun-top can be a sick pillarMeen Grean- long, bottom pitches come and go, but top should be inLook for The Moratorium- its obvious, but bottom may not be in. Those are the first that come to mind and should fill up a weekend nicely. This guy todd doesn't know what he's talking about, the presence of snow or no snow will only affect the freeze thaw climbs, and generaly says nothing about the overal conditions. It's allways dry there (wind slabs can still form up high though, something to watch for). Three of my bro's from Bozeman were there this weekend and had a great time, they did some 2s,3s, and 5s mostly on the north facing side. Go make us Seattalites proud! Most of the Ice Fest Folks will be from 'Rado, Iowa, Jackson, or Montana. Routes could be crowded, but its a fun scene! Peace, have fun. [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, it will fall apart by the end of the season, just like anyother piece of NoFace crap.

The two smallest Ballnutz work great for clean aid in knifeblade scars, but:1. They are super shifty2. they are a bitch to clean3. they are super fragile...I've burned through two sets in only a handfull of walls Agreed, they are way better than pounding a blade,but a nice little cam of that size would be the shiznit! Anyway, I'm only wondering about the Splitter 4 cam or WC minicams. [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

What kind of crappy gear review is that anyway...