LUCKY

Anyone that wants a dog would not let this one go...phuk'n good crag dog!!!

Got a belay for you at the coulee....warm dry rock!!!!

You guys and Gals are soo cool for take'n on Buddy and I will attest to the fact it is truly a fine dog,If it were not for my unsocial German sheperds I would take him. It was a joy having the crew over on the way to and from smith. You were truly a dirty bunch on the way back.

BUMP

As far as new routes and new climbing areas go most are off the radar or at least the net, but pinto is no secret and has one of the best views, kinda bug'e in the early season and it's too jug'e or too choss.

Thats the new look I'm look'n for

It's even worse at the DM concert at the george, stand'n room only in the camping area and they leave more trash than any band that plays at the george :tdown:

Sarah Palin is like the OJ simpson trials ...please make it stop... I would rather have root canel Why does anything that happens have to have a Sarah Palin comment, hay that Liberian porn star thing/look was cool , but it’s get’n old now!

You guys would love Pinto Rock The view look'n down the throat of mt St Hellens bitch'n choss

I was just rebolting what was there; there are tons of things I'd do differently if I felt it was up to me. I lead that pitch entirely on gear all the time in the daylight, but most folks aren't going to clip those bolts and then place gear backups, so I don't know what the point would be of leaving bad bolts on one of Beacon's most heavily trafficked routes. I didn't feel it was up to me to decide whether existing anchors should exist or not, I just replaced them. The only anchor I moved significantly was the top Flying Dutchman anchor which got moved around the corner and out on the face. I entirely agree with you on the YW anchor at the base of p3; if it were up to me it would just be gone as would a whole bunch of other anchors. But, again I wasn't trying to change routes, just replace what was there. There are lot of anchors which could still be removed at any time as far as I'm concerned and if that's what folks decided they collectively wanted to have happen it would be ok by me. 1. Anything with some 'historical' merit I left, but most of it was just mank, like lots of rusty, plated SMC hangers. 2. I specifically avoided retrobolting anything, that wouldn't be my call to do. 3. I agree with the just-top-out sentiment. 4. Well, I'm all for and about climbers taking personal responsibility for every aspect of their climbing - climbing is incredibly dangerous if you don't, trad climbing especially so. But in these days of learning in gyms and crossing over to trad from sport, those folks don't have the knowledge, experience, or judgment necessary to figure out if a bolt is bad or not when they come out. My personal opinion is that if fixed pro is present and isn't some form of obviously marginal placement, then folks ought to be able to count on it being solid. That said, YW is the only route I have replaced protection bolts on and there only for selfish and traffic reasons. In the case of anchors, the stats speak for themselves, most had bad bolts, lots had bad hangers. The worst being the tire chain anchor on Bluebird at the short two pin crux. The left bolt came off under just the weight of the breaker bar on it when I momentarily took my hands off it to adjust my leash. The other bolt came off with a quarter turn. The first pin above the anchor all but came out with my fingers. If someone had blown that move and tumbled off the column top the odds are stellar the anchor would have failed unless the belayer were very well-stanced. I'm not going to argue the point, that's why I didn't retrobolt, I'm ok with the way things are out there despite the fact that, like Steve, there are no shortage of things I would change if I were doing what I thought should happen. But that wasn't and isn't what I've been up to. I've read all the documentation, fact-checked with climbers and agency personnel who were at those meetings and do understand what went down. In the end climbers turned down a partial closure because it didn't include topping out and did so on the basis that tourist top out and so should climbers - reasonable logic, but a bad decision from my perspective. As for the annual reviews, the BRSP has no part whatsoever in administering the Peregrine closure; their only role is enforcement within the park boundaries. If folks wanted or want an annual Peregrine closure review you'd have to address that concern to the WDFW. Cool with me. The monitoring data for the season could be discussed along with what that data implied in the way of an opening date; but beyond that, nothing in those review meetings would ever change the WA state law or WFDF policy governing the closures. To do that you have to come to those review meetings armed with some form of credible scientific, legal, or policy basis for doing so. That's because our closure is consistent with all the other closures around the nation and the AF supports those closures 100%. I agree, and when I heard what AF had in mind for the CAC membership committee I laid out those fears and the potential for establishing a credible position Beacon locals could use to stake a claim at that table. Guess what? In the end no one was interested and the same old bullshit - that no one should be "talking to the man" - has reigned. That 'tradition' has held sway for 14 years of whining and bitching with NOTHING being done about what you have been bitching about. Is that the plan for the next 14 years as well? Sorry, I just can't deal with it when people whine about shit and then do nothing about it, let alone join the Church of Our Eternal Persecution. That explanation above of my reasoning is about the tenth time I've posted it over the years. But I agree with you it's pointless for one person to try and do it when no one else is interested. That's why I quit that aspect of it all, clearly explained to all the agency personnel I represent no one but myself at this point, and have reverted to my selfish, ruffian ways. Dang that's one long phuk'n post

Mount Townsend when the rhodys are in bloom...take your rock shoes and chalk bag and do some boldering neer the summit on the low ball boulders

Oh I troll'd the Dawg a bit...It's all good!! trek it's bitch'n choss and my favorite scramble.

I was trying to be polite if not funny to you. Waste of time as usual. Sounds like you were brag'n billcoe likes to say, if you don't have pictures it didn't really happen. Yeah I turned 55 yesterday, I was happy with my time, give it a go Dawg.

I've climbed Pinnacle Peak something like 167 times (it was my first ever climb in 1973 and I love the peak) including over 30 ascents of the North Ridge, numerous on the east ridge and two different routes on the spooky and crumbly north face. I've climbed the east ridge to the summit from the road in 35 minutes and round trip from Paradise in less than two hours. Could I do it that fast again? Maybe...but right now, I ain't got the time or energy to try. But two hours car to car ain't shabby.

Holy crap....post of the year!!!! Thank god I am not the only one who see's Joseph's hypocrisy/double standard. JosephH the Counterintuitive Beacon rock ROCKCOP

Pinnacle peak Love that long scramble and bitch’n choss 8/17 1:58 car to car Think the crotchy old men pope and raindawg can beat my time?

No way it's hot, buggy and the climbs are mank at nevermind, the last time I was there every hold had a rattle snake sleep'n on it and ticks under every bush!!!!

I could tell you but than the crag would be overun so those in the know keep it on the down low.

The route Love bucket, someone has removed the third bolt and replaced it in a different location this lengthens out the fall at the second crux going to the fourth bolt especially for short climbers like myself that clip the forth bolt below the chest, this has changed the Character of the route especially as an onsight because the third bolt was slightly hidden…at this point the new bolt will probably stay but don’t look for a thank you. The route Architects Rally there has been a pair of hardware store safety hooks installed on the chains they are ugly and not climbing hardware and could be dangerous if clipped wrong. A few years ago I installed a pair of spend’y FIXE sport anchors at the top of Big Mama because of the awarkward anchor stance, so now you can clip and lower, this is not the case with architects rally, the stance is good, if someone feels the need to clip and lower please use approved climbing hardware. Will the person who installed them take them off, if not they will be removed.

Rumor has it that there is a new route at Darrington that is longer than IB, anyone got the beta?

Here it comes! I'll take the bait even though the exchanges I've been reading sound pretty fishy/naive. Gecko and Company: learn a little history before you go on that thing. It's an illegitimate route, power-drilled in a wilderness area. If you got any ethics beyond your own personal thrills, you should boycott it and certainly not add to the mess. The only reason it hasn't been removed yet is because realistically its going to take a heck of a lot of time and effort to do so. Personally, I would like to see the guys originally responsible step up and remove it themselves. PERSONALLY I would like to see you STFU

Dude you are new to this site I'll show you how to post your pic's When you guys told me you fix'd a draw under the roof I though it was like old junk not first class stuff, way to go guys :tup:...destined to be a classic

Bryan’s route left of rat face called Black Market was never put up and Smoot’s book Washington rock climbing has a route that does not exist as 5.9 copied from Bryan’s book …plagiarism? I have some abandoned anchors in that area if anyone is look’n for a new route The new route is La Veda Locomotive 5.11+ FA Ricky Martin/Rusty Smith

No, keep the guide, it does not look like I will be going back, I have soo much I want to do and so little time and my old body is running out of steam and can't take the falls any longer. Sure would like to find sport routes on that kind of rock tho! So was that old guide still up to date?