fredrogers

I don't know about how much traffic it sees- I just assume that since it's given a fairly easy grade and right by the road that newbies will be on it. I don't really have the experience to judge whether the bolt needs to be replaced- although it is sticking out of the slab a good bit. I know the hanger is bunk and it looked like the top of the bolt had been bashed down to keep the hanger from being stolen. There is just one bolt on the route- the rest is gear. There is a three bolt anchor at the top of the pitch.

double post

Climbed a couple of routes on Domestic Dome this weekend with JJA. I led a climb called BS (aptly named), supposedly 5.6, that starts off as moderate gear up to a bolt protected slab. The old, SMC hangar is spinning and quite mangled. I backed it up by sliding a nut over the bolt and then proceeded to take a short fall onto it. It held, but based on the runout, sandy friction slab above it (10-12' before you can get your next piece in) I wouldn't want to take that fall onto that hangar and bolt. I'm posting this hoping that a) some newbie 5.6 leader doesn't get on it and wing onto that hanger and bolt and b) since the top of the bolt is bashed down and I can't replace the hanger, that some kind soul with a drill might see fit to replace it.

I have one and I like it much better than a sling without the loops. It helps me keep the gear organized, which is nice when you're gripped out and fumbling trying to get a piece off the sling. You can always use a runner for a sling if you're carrying a light rack and don't need the loops.

The Mazama Country Inn in Mazama. It's fairly cheap, has good food and is right on the MVSTA ski trails.

LOL. This is the post of the day.

Nope. Still there.

Well, it wasn't that cold- but I ended up bouldering anyway since my wife threw her back out. I put up up two "new to me" problems to the right of the (damn hard) established traverse on Nuff rock, facing the road. "My climbing partner broke and I forgot a spare" is an 8 move wonder that sit starts with a left-side pull and right pinch, located just to the left of a small v-slot on the upper end of the rock. V1? "I don't need no stinkin' belayer" starts to the left of "My climbing partner broke and I forgot a spare" in a small scoop- the left hand side pull becomes a match for the sit start, works its way into the grove and then onto two slopers at the lip. Left foot uses holds from the estabished traverse and a heel hook for the tricky mantel onto the slab? Guessing V2-3, but I couldn't get the mantel. And was too chicken to push it without a spot. I'm going back with a brush next time to see if there are better finishing holds hidden under the moss and needles at the top of the problem. Jeeze, I sound like Distel. There is also some fun bouldering above and right of the main crag- watch out for portable holds, though. If any of you ever take your kids to Fun Rock, there is a small 30' high, lower angle slab with 4 separate top rope anchors up and right of the main crag that looks like a good shady place for kids to climb. The Shady side of Fun Rock does have some snow at the bottom of the routes and the start to Plethora is still snow covered but climable. There is a new 11a that tackles the bulge to the right of the 5.9 bolted chimney on the shady side- it looks damn hard going through that bulge. The Woof Area and middle crag still have a fair amount of snow at the bottom. Stopped by the brew pub in Twisp for lunch on Saturday. Big thumb's up to the Bock- IPA could use a bigger bite, though.

CBS's alter ego: At least he's embraced his back fur.

Thaanks, UT. I'm going to be climbing with my wife, so if it's cold and snowy, I'll be bouldering...

I'm assuming the S Facing stuff will be climable, but I'm wondering how much snow is on the ground/top of the routes? Any one been there in the last week or so? TIA.

Well, Tim. Did you redpoint Crossfire or not?

It's been a while since I've been there, but here's what I remeber: Continue past the Mt. Si trailhead until you see a gated road on the N. side of the road- park there and head up, following the left forks in the road- if you end up on anything other than an old logging road- you're off track. It winds way left (as you face the mountain) and then crosses over on a traverse towards the top- past the "meth lab." The views of the clear cuts on the back side are breathtaking. Check Manning and Springs 50 hikes in the Moutnain to Sound Greenway for better diros.

No one has mentioned the Silver Star Glacier. Beautiful setting and a good hike with a nice scramble at the top.

Get a bottle of Gore Revivex. Wash. Dry. Almost as good as new. I find I do this about 2 times a year.

Nope. but I've done Dog Ate my topo 4-5 times. Fun route. I'll look for it once the slabs dry out.

I wish I was kidding.

www.ratemypoo.com

Nice write up. Glad to hear that Elena remembered her helmet this time.

Like you're going to leave Toronto.

try this thread http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/295977/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

Last time we were out at Index in late November, the two fixed pins below the V slot on Iron Horse were gone. If they haven't been replaced, I'm sure some aid trickery will get you through...

I upgraded to the 2002 Alphas this year. Miles apart from climbing in my Invernos. I was up in Banff during the cold snap and did pretty good with 2 pairs of sock until it hit -30F. Heat packs were a big plus then. I did a 8 mile snowshoe with them on (which would have crippled me with the Invernos) and they were very comfy. BD has the 2002 on sale on their web site and Second Ascent has a limited number of new 2002 models for $275.

I gave up trying to use my orthotics in my ice climbing and snowboarding boots- the pain under the in-step was too much to bear. I switched to Superfeet insoles (I have the hiker, I think), which seems to be a decent (and cheap) compromise to either wearing orthotics (ouch) or going with out (double ouch. YMMV, but they're only like $30.

Outside Magazine had a seak preview last night- it opens on the 23rd at the Harvard Exit. Joe Simpson will be speaking about the making of the movie on the 20th at the REI flagship store- at 6:30 I think. I'm definitely going to check that out.