fredrogers

For the record it's gated at Silverstar not down in Mazama. We'll see how long either the WSDOT or OK county decides to plow past Early Winters, though.

Great TR and fun read. Thanks.

I get it. Herman Cain + Rick Perry of the climbing world combo.

SW Coulior SEWS Mapleleaf Coulior Copper Mtn both right off the hair pin in the N Cascades. N face Graybeard for ice/snow mixed.

DAS for very cold. For moderate cold- I have finally killed a OR Neoplume (hooded version) after 5 years of 90+ days a season. I plan to get another.

I hiked to Cutthroat Pass today. There is 4-6" of snow starting at 6K, with a dusting below in the shady spots. Some of the S facing rock has melted off, but there is a good bit of snow just about everywhere. Larches are amazing right now.

It has snowed in the North Cascades- about 4-5" on Monday down just below WA pass. S and E facers are melting off, but still plenty of white on N Facing stuff. Another good day is to go climb the Kangaroo Temple N Face and the mighty "Little Finger" next door. Both are fun climbs and no harder than 5.5. Earlier in the year, the MapleLeaf Coulior on Copper peak is a fun solo.

Trip: North Cascades Natl Park - Fremont Glacier- Mt Logan Date: 8/28/2011 Trip Report: Climbed Logan via the Fremont Glacier 8/26-8/29 with my buddy Jake. My prose won't quite match Mr. Lewis' report, but I do agree with his sentiment that Logan is a long ways back, but a worthwhile climb- one I have been contemplating for over 10 years and finally had weather, time off and partner all come together. View of the correct (northern summit block from the Fremont Glacier) The snow ramp from the glacier to the rock is still hanging in there, but not likely for all that much longer. It looks like you could bypass it via some crumbly 3rd/4th class to the right (the rock quality right from the glacier is some of the worst on the climb). Both my partner and I felt we had never climbed as exposed, zero error 3rd and 4th class as on the east ledges and the final bit to the summit. The ledges are easy to find, all there and pretty solid, but a fall would send you several hundreds of feet onto the Douglas glacier. Attention getting. The summit register appears to be missing. We found green wire but no canister on the top. Mrs. Johnson's 1st grade class will be disappointed we didn't sign it for them. Gear Notes: Did not bring rope or glacier gear- no need for anything other than ice ax and crampons. Did not bring enough booze. A pint of Yukon Jack is not enough to dull the aches of this kind of mileage for more than a night. Approach Notes: Long. Approached via Thunder Creek. Bomber trail all cleared of down fall. Great to be in the shade of old growth during the heat. Wasp nest on the trail between the first camp site at the bridge and Neve camp. Got my buddy coming and going. Mean little 1000' climb exposed to the sun between Tricouni and Junction camps. Not recommended for the heat of the day. Trail between the plateau above Skagit Queen camp and Thunder Basin is very over grown in places. Very, very wet from dew in the morning and full of nettles and other thorny things that will make you regret wearing shorts. There is a sketchy log crossing that will avoid fording Thunder Creek right before the horse camp. I wussed out and forded. Our plan was to carry to high camp and have a short summit day, but after talking with a couple of other climbers, we bivvied in Thunder Basin. Glad we did since we found very little camp-able terrain until very close to the glacier. It only added about 1.5 hours to do the addition 2K from Thunder Basin. We ran into two guys who had gone all the way up the first valley from the junction of the climber's path and the official trail. The climbers trail is good and pretty easy to follow until the last major water course in the first valley above Thunder basin. Once you hit the water course with the avvy felled trees, head up hill for 200-300' feet to an easy crossing and pick up the trail there. Cairns all the way to the moraine.

Camping is allowed 1/4 mile from Blue Lake. Bugs are like a typical July right now- find a windy spot to camp. Cutthroat TH is a much better bivvy spot than Blue Lake- farther off the HWY and less buggy. No beta on the coulior.

Anatoli- the hat I recognize. Very work proud.

the crazy hat - yes! but not on top of a puffy hood??? nice job dudes! -veronika Anatoli. Or Kunz. Zat iz you?

I have the 30 degree down hugger. I'm a stocky guy, so even at 5 10" I had to buy the long version. I've spent 30+ nights in it from temps of 70 to just under freezing. I use it with a bivvy and a silk liner and was warm down to about 25-26 in a Betalight. Great bag. Ultralight, super packable, highly recommended. I'm considering buying the 0 degree version.

I sleep warm, so it's worked for me. The coldest temps I have been in it have been mid-teens and in a betalight or like shelter with a bivvy sac, so that could account for why I have found it just fine.

It's north facing and at elevation- so my guess is highly unlikely unless we have sustained period of warming between now and then- or unless you want to climb it in mixed conditions.

I've got the 0 degree version of the Ultralamina. I can't say enough good things about this bag after spending 100+ nights in the for past two seasons. Compresses incredibly well- close to down bag size- and has held its loft and held up well to heavy use- bivvying in the dirt, etc. My only bitch is that the zipper is prone to snagging on the outside of the bag- other than that- best synthetic bag I have ever owned.

At least on the east side they don't like it when they are working, which is just Monday-Thursday, but they have no authority to kick you off if you are on a non-motorized vehicle. Methow Valley Sport Trails posted some pics from last weekend on Facebook: And for those of you who were hoping as well that the slide at Silverstar Creek opened up a decent path in tight trees, the answer is sadly, no. Just a big wet slide though the old growth.

Rudy- I have had plenty of soles resoled by Ramuta and I can say say James at Cascade Cobbler is as good a re-soler and a little less $$. You should try him out.

I've used Dave Page, John Ramuta and James at Cascade Cobbler. Page's crew fucked up a pair of shoes, Ramuta does/has done excellent work, and James does work on par with or better than Ramuta, but faster and for less. Yeah, I'm a local, but I'd still send my shoes to Ramuta if James didn't do as good/better work for less.

Cascade Cobbler in Mazama. http://cascadecobbler.com/ James has done 2 pairs my shoes and done excellent work.

From the East side- Snow is decent to good above 5,500-6K from the Methow side. Some rugged snomowing to the hairpin on 20. Did not want to push our luck on the Liberty Bell paths, all 3 went big. YMMV.

The cheapest hands down is the Idle a While Motel or the Blue Spruce Motel in Twisp. Do not expect much at either place except for a cheap place to stay. Best Western in Winthrop is reasonable, as is the Mt. Gardner Inn. I think the Rolling Huts in Mazama are pretty reasonable if you can deal with walking to the toilet at night. If you have a large group, try Timberline Meadows Cabins In Mazama or perhaps some of the cabins the Mazama Country Inn offers. If you coming between New Years and MLK weekend, you can likely wheel and deal on pricing.

Telemarker- I think there was some for on injunction or something like that with Dan H. If I type in Dan - and don't space out the letters the last name doesn't show.

Don't forget Dan H o w i t t. That was a doozy.

The return of Dan H o w i t t?

You joined the site 4 days ago and you're laying the newbie smack down? easy cowboy or girl.