Jedi

I could never wear those Ice(boxing) gloves either.

I'd say they have been sweet to me too. I do wish they would listen to me and make the Status glove with a synthetic palm. The "waterproof" pittards leather is f*cking frozen by the morning of day two. What am I suppose to do with that? Oh yeah, put some stretch around the knuckles of any glove shell. Customer since 92 and I still like and own much of their gear. Jedi

I hope to give it a go this season. Hopefully things will go a little easier for us. I wonder if the range will see another dry fall, like the past 2 years????

Way to persevere!! You guys kept your heads and made it happen. True alpinist! Jedi

Yeash!

Tom & Dave are trying it again? I met those guys after they attempted it in 2002. It was too warm and I don't think they even set foot on the route. I hope they get it! Jedi

I hear you. I was there 4/29-5/9 to climb Mount Hunter west ridge. We got stuck at camp 2 where the origibal route meets NW basin route for 4 nights. We had 6-10 inches of new powder snow and 30-40 mpr winds. We just didn't have enough food to attempt the summit. My heart was broken when we had to turn around. We were the first team on the NW basin route on Hunter. So we kicked steps all the way to camp 2. It was a great experiense and I would like to try again next year if I can find partners. Pochi Why such a short trip? You might have been able to give it another go if you have had another week or so. I wonder if Sue and Zoe are going to get a shot at the I Spur? I hear conditions, in the range, are similar to the conditions last year. That would not be in their favor. Jedi

If you are taking a climbing rack, clip it to the rack near the cams (CAM-O). Jedi

OH YEAH!!!!!!!!!! Mine showed up today!! Of all the climbing guides I have bought over the years, this is absolutely the best. Nearly every turn of a page (229 pages) reveals another bold color photo, or very well done topo. The photos are great, I'm nearly ready to quit my job and head north to for another adventure this season (but it will have to wait for next spring). I have climbed a few of the routes and Joe's accuracy is on the money. Well done Joe! Inspirational. Thanks, Jedi p.s I was so jazzed, I bought the Yosemite big wall book tonight.

I have a pair of Alpha's with Intuition liners. They weigh 74oz Size 9. They are a snug fit so they climb GREAT. BUT, if it is cold out, my feet get cold easily. Should have a 9.5 for cold days. I tried the Spantik on last weekend. They only had a 43 (size 10) in stock. A 42.5 would be a better fit but I did not have a good insole in the 43 so I dunno. The laces are wicked thin. One handed lacing, on cold mornings, with gloves would be nice with these boots. I reallly like the boot and at 81oz, it looks like it my next boot. The Ice 9000 are about 11oz heavier (listed weight) but A LOT cheaper. It's all about the fit so I'll have to see. Scott Backes wore the Ice 9000 to the summit of Denali, with no overboots and had no problems so they be pretty warm. Granted, the weather was probably pretty good (Denali good). I think Mt Gear has them only sale real cheap. Andy seemed to like the Spantik http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoors/showitem.asp?Id=445 I have a buddy who recovered from frostbite on his toes. It took a while but years later, he really does not have any issues when ice climbing. Jedi

Westman, House and Donini slide shows......Damn it, I wish lived in the PNW! Ohhhh if plane tickets were cheaper....I'd be there for all 3 shows Jedi

While building my house, I used a foil backed insulation foam product. I layed down on a piece one evening (in Feb) while taking a break and it felt warm very quickly. I could feel the heat being reflected back. The nice thing about a ridgerest pad is that it has "grooves" for moisture to collect in. I think that keeps the insulation in your bag a little drier. If you have a an emergency blacket stretched across it, you not longer have that feature. If the blanket is adheared to the contours of the ridgerest, then it would help. But then you have the added weight of the glue (whatever it might be). A good test would be to cover one half of the pad with the blanket and see if if that side feels warmer while you sleep. I wonder if there is an aluminum based paint that would work. It would wear off on the high ridges but is would remain on the rest of the pad. Yeah, it's not like redesigning cams but it an interesting concept.

I just watched the "nasty girls" video in the WOD video section. Now, I don't even want to work out. My little pansy ass workout is shit compared to those girls. I have just started reading about crossfit. Looks interesting. I can see where gains could be made. Trying to put a better workout together looks challenging. Start new job in 2 weeks: Another construction job. Some days, it feels like a tough WOD. Daily commute, to work, on bike (14 miles round trip). 4 days out of the week. Long ride on the weekend. would like to work in "stair work" one day out of the week. Need to increase endurance in the mountains. Now to work in a crossfit, WOD plan without just feeling whipped. Sould be fun to try to figure out.

Davis, what is a gear whore? I have never heard of such a person and I don't think there are any here on this site. You must feel out of place, eh? Anyway, I must go. I have another gear closet to build. Yeah, maybe some more shelves this time. Ooooo and some of those plastic baskets to hold all my gloves and mitts. Hey, how about that Patagonia Spectra jacket at 8.5oz. I gotta get a better paying job. Congrats on the spectra pack. I hope my 54oz 1996 Andinista lasts a couple more trips. I would hate, to be forced, to buy the Spectra model. Why not McHale?

It appears that Alpinist has reprinted #0 and #1. They are available on their website. I just ordered mine so my collection is complete. Jedi

Many people are recommending a -15 to -20 degree bag. Looking at down fill weights; WM Puma -20 has 35oz of fill (52oz total). WM Big Horn -25 38oz of fill (55oz total). FF Tern -10 at 25oz of fill (49oz total). *Marmot Lithium is rated 0, has 27oz of down (40oz total). FF Ptarmigan -25 at 35oz of fill (60oz total). Marmot Col EQ -20 at 37oz of fill (68oz total). Looks like the Puma is one of the lighter bags, in the down fill range, that you might be interested in. The bags I listed were in a regular length. I would pick more breathable shell fabrics so the down stay as dry as possible. If you were going to go with a zero degree bag. Sleep with your parka on top of your sleeping bag (not in your bag). Maybe take a ultra lightweight pair of down booties to sleep in that can also be used as a pair of emergency mittens. Sleep on your shells, ropes and packs to help insulate you from the snow. Remember that having your parka as part of your sleep system means that it will aborb some moisture every night you use it so use it only when really needed.

the label on my EV2 says "Made in Taiwan, sewn in China" OHHH it figures! There's no getting away from it, eh? In the future, there will be very few choices, on where things will be made.

What's wrong with buying from China? How in the hell will China own the US without our continue support? Lets all rally and shop at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, Target and the like. IS EVERYONE WITH ME? Comeon!!! Sorry, I'm just bummed about China now owning both ends of the Panama Canal. Bastards will have us in a serious economic choke hold before it's overwith. Boycot China!!! buy the MK1 or EV2

Alpinfox nailed it

I have stick and want to join club matt. MattJediAlpineDruBugSeat

Hey John, I am hoping to make it up to AK for a shot at the Cassin or I Spur, if I can find a partner. I am thinking mid May through June. Temps could be pretty cool. Liked the "light" weight of my Salopette pants I have now (27oz). This includes the insulation. Something like the Dimension (24/25oz). I just got a new catalog yesterday and I see they make a R.5 superfly tight (6oz) which has the bombay fly. I little bit heavier sytem and not as warm. Maybe (hopefully) not as bulky in the lower leg area as the pants I have. The Gamma Bibs sounds like a great. Too bad they not longer make it. Did they have the knee pads? I am looking at the Bozeman Mountain Works insulated pants (7/8oz) the coldest days.

Patagonia? or Arc'teryx? They don't seem to exist on the Patagonia site. I bought them about 4 years ago. They don't make them anymore. They matched the jacket the preceeded the Mixmaster jacket. I found the matching jacket to be too warm but for the coldest of conditions. I plan to use them for my next trip to AK and possibly ice climbing.

I have been using Patagonia's Salopette pants (soft shell type) for a while and I love them. Very versatile. Wind resistant (but I have not used in brutal winds). Dry quickly. Suspenders. High waist. Pocket on the thigh. Warm (R2 insulation down to the knees and then R1). They have a little stretch. Breathable, so they don't wet out. The problem: Lack of zipper though the crotch. The Patagonia Dimension pant is probably very close to the same pant without the r2/R1 insulation. Anyone know of a similar pant but lighter? Or just a great pant. Anyone have experience with the Arc'teryx Gamma Salopette? Thanks, Jedi

bumpedee bump

SW Ridge, If you talk to the rangers about the SW Ridge, they will not highly recommend it due to avy danger. The 1st ascent party rode an avalanche on the descent. I'm not saying not to give it a go. Just make sure conditions are good and if you get a dump while higher on the route and be willing to wait for "better conditions" on the descent. The NW Basin var. of the West Ridge is popular but can be active also so be careful and wait for good condtions. I am not speaking from experience. This is just 2nd hand info that has been passed on to me from the likes of Mark, Joe (walking encyclopedias of the AK Range) and others that have been on Hunter. Now if someone is interested in the 01 route, that Mark mentioned, let me know. I talked to Rick Taylor about it and it sounds like "fun". 2007! Let's go Of course, I will settle for the Cassin or I-Spur. VW, did you notice that the only word that Mark used to describe the route was "horror show" . I bet it was funner than that! Jedi