Jedi

WOW, nice work Joe! It's gotta be an odd feeling, standing in knee deep snow, in rock shoes. Beautiful route!

AlpineDave: We flew last year in mid-April. That area locks in cloud cover like no other spot in the Ruth. We could not land so we opted for the SW Ridge of 11,300 (2003). While we were climbing the SW Ridge of 11,300, Jack Roberts climbed the Harvard. They were the only people that got up it. This year we flew into the Tok within 3 hours of arriving in Talkeetna (Apr 16th). Then it snowed for 6 days straight. Then the weather was clear for 7. The 1st couple days were pretty cold at base camp (minus 15 the 1st couple mornings) but like last year and the couple years before that, it really warms up. Almost too warm. Westman and Puryear have spent A LOT of time in that area. I think Joe recommends giving it a shot in mid April through May. I would imagine rock fall would increase as it gets warmer. The belay at the top of the Dihedral pitch is not the same as when Mark was there a couple years ago. It fell off making for an uncomfortable stance. I attached a picture to my 1st post (I think Seth snapped the photo). That is the view from that belay. I will add an attatch a photo above that shows the dihedral pitch. Coley lead this pitch and I consider it the hardest pitch on the route. Anyway....I'll never forget aiding my way up the Nose pitch and seeing the van sized boulder floating out away from the West Face and the explosion when it made contact. The glacier below was peppered with granite. I would go earlier in the season.

http://www.mtnguide.com/huntington_tripreport.asp Last year, I mentioned that I met some great people from the PNW, while in the Ruth. This spring was no exception. Climbing with Coley and Seth was a joy and would climb with them again if the opportunity presented itself. Of course, the odds of it happening again, as it did this year, seems slim. Coley did a great job with pictures and the TR. Don't forget the slideshow. A spectacular route indeed! Jedi

Appearently this was freak accident. The biners were opposed and opposite and your rope jumped into the gate as you approached the anchor. The guy set the biners up correctly. It sounds like he is a pretty low key guy as this incident did not frighten him. What kind of reaction would have made you feel better? Are you thinking he set the anchor incorrectly, on purpose, maybe to kill you? Sounds like some kinda freak accident. Jedi

<Some fill more than one: thrill and adventure seeking; experience seeking (non-conformity or impulsiveness, for example); disinhibition seeking (such as multiple sex partners, drugs or drinking); and boredom susceptibility> Before I started climbing at age 25, this was my freak'n resume (sans the drugs). I wish Zuckerman could have been with me the times I stood in front of a judge. The more I poured into climbing, the less havoc I wreaked of society. Jedi

Still waiting on mine. I wonder how much heavier the new and improve plates will be??

Scott, How were the conditions on the Cassin?

Thanks Jon, so, if whisper realllllly quietly, will they still find out about my "shipment" that is being flown in on the 18th of July. Good thing they don't know about the green, 86 chevy custom van that we are using to pick up the "payload". Damn, I'm glad we rented a forklift. "stuff" in that kind of quantity can be a back breaker. I have become more cunning and will not be hiding it at my house like I use to, no sir E bob. They have storage units for that and no one would ever think to look there, especially the big ones. So if anyone needs ANYTHING, just beep me as usual. psssttt! and keep this quiet. I'm sure Johnny Law can't decipher my lingo so everything is cool.

I was just on Climbing's website. http://climbing.com/news/ I was just wondering what the offical rules are for a new route? What percentage of terrain makes the difference between a variation to a route verses a new route? How far below to the summit are you allowed to stop before it is not considered a route? Should you complete at least half the distance to the summit or at least intersect an exsisting route to make it a variation or new route? Should the summit be considered important on a new route or variation? Seems less and lees so. What if you intersect an existing route more than once? Variation or new route? Is clarification important? FA: First Ascent FANS: First Ascent No Summit subcatagory:FANSDTW, First Ascent No Summit Due To Weather FANSDTLOF First Ascent No Summit Due To Lack OF Food. FANSDTPWHTCAPTSTYP First Ascent No Summit Due To Partner Who Had To See The Yankees Play and the reasons go on.............. Have you climbed the Moose's Tooth (summit included) or have you just climbed Ham & Eggs? Is the summit not important? If not, should First ascentionist just stop when the climbing eases "the summit was just an easy 10 minute stroll," and still get credit for an FA? Just because they did a high percentage of the route or the hard part. Or "because the summit (last 50') was too difficult?" To difficult for them maybe. When someone else repeats it and does climb the short difficult section to the actual summit, do they get the FA?? Can they rename it? FATTAT:First Ascent To The Actual Top Yeah, I know this has been going on for a while but I think it is important to remind people that there is a difference in summiting and just climbing a route that stops somewhere on a peak. If not, the future alpinist might come to disregard the summit in the pursuit to get their name in the guidebook. I am talking about alpinism and not sport climbing. The grey area seems to be growing and spreading. On a final note. I am not trying to take away from anyone's great climbing feat. I am questioning the actions of much better climbers than I. I would just like some answers. Maybe I want to climb a new pitch next to Deprivation, then climb the rest of Deprivation until the angle eases, then rappel and call it a new route. Yeah! being sarcastic now. Jedi

Thanks for the link Chriznitch. I had meant to mail one in but had forgotten about it. That Lotus Flower video is pretty good too.

I've ripped several RURP's out in a row after stepping out of the aiders for some free climbing. With a third of the rope out, the rope stretch allowed the me to touch the ground. Solo aiding, it's so crazy sometimes...... Jedi

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/how_to_200/230_how_to.html In case anyone had any questions about climbing, this should clear things up.

Thanks guys!

This morning, I called Kodak to ask them a question about my slide projector lens. Kodak has stopped making slide projectors. They are a thing of the past. They refered me to a "local repair" shop in a nearby big city. They fella there said they really don't see slide projectors anymore and most manufactures have stopped making them (well the better slide projectors). Made me think of the stack of slides trays on the bookshelf. Probably 800 ot 900 slides. I'm good now but in ten years, if I break my projector, I guess I''l have to to come up with something else. I guess a GOOD slide scanner will be a must. Then a projector like the ones for watching TV will be in order. Pricey setup now. Maybe it will be cheaper down the road. Can anyone recommend a good slide scanner that is not too expensive. The one I have presently, well...it sucks. Jedi

That's it! His mind has cleared since he has gotten back to sea level. He has realized that real climbing is clipping bolts. Maybe he'll start pinkpointing 14a+/14b- and then put up some badass sport routes AT 8000m in the future. Hopefully, that is where our sport is going. Or maybe with the lack of oxygen his brain has endured over the years, he will start ascending fixed lines at the local sport area. Yeah, start "flashing" 5.14 without supplemental 02 with fixed lines and limited sherpa help at the local crag. Sick bivies on bolt #3;) Speaking of sport climbing, I need to get my ass in shape and head to The New River Gorge to climb some warm rock.

Shin bash: I get get it and have found a great product to keep it at bay. Band Aid Blister Block (or something like that) in the band aid section of your local drug store. I shave the area on my shins that gives me trouble, apply Blister Block and i have had them stay in place for 21 days without the end peeling up (unlike duct tape). Jedi

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10622&sort=1&cat=511&page=1 Jedi

I thought it handled well and I liked the lighter weight. Maybe not made for the abuse it receieved on Huntington. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10592&sort=1&cat=511&page=1 Jedi

Yeash......I read the subject of the post and did not have time go to link and read about Annapuruna. I should do my homework before I open my big mouth. I apolgize & wish to withdraw my stupid comments. I was in left field for sure. Helicoptor, fixed ropes, style point going out the window for sure! Jedi p.s. see where it says "chronic gumby" under my name? Rightly so!

And you've summited exactly how many 8k meter peaks to gain this righteous perspective? Hmmm? Zero? Crampons, down suits, ice tools, etc. are also not part of the human body, which further invalidates the remaining ascents. NO ONE HAS SUMMITED EVEREST!!! Fucking amateur monday-morning armchair quarterback bullshit. I must have struck a nerve. Then from your armchair Doc, I guess you would consider a client tethered (and tentioned) and hooked up to all the O2 in the world would be a the same as someone hiking up the same peak under their on steam with no 02 the same feat. I am speaking of extremes at both ends of summiting 7 & 8,000 meter peaks to make a point. Both both extremes occur. Unfortunately, I think ascents without 02 happen less often than the other. You are right Doc, I have not been above 6,000 meters. I can only offer my opinion on what I have read and give congrats on what I feel is a more worthy feat. If you climbed the Nose free, I would think you would mention the style in which climbed it. Trust me, people would more impressed than if you had done it the more classic way. Also, it's Thursday. Monday moring was earlier in the week. Long days and pleasent nights Jedi

Without bottled O2 is news worthy. Bottled O2 is aid. It is bringing a mountain down to your climbing ability (what your body can physically do). There are probably less than 100 people in the world who have REALLY climbed Everest. (guessing because it was only about 80+ by 2002) I'm sure Ed could have climbed all 14 sooner, when it was news worthy, but he chose to do it in good style. The best style. Hats off to you Ed! p.s. now before I hurt someone's feelings, I'm sure 7 & 8,000 meter peaks are tough WITH bottled oxygen. I'm not saying that they are not. But it's like free climbing the Nose. You either can "climb" it or aid it. Both are forms of climbing and both can be hard but free climbing the Nose is a more pure form and is a more respectable feat. Jedi

I like my new BD Zenix IQ. Takes 2 AA's Lithium AA's are lighter than standard batt's.

I think you know the answer. If WM is more consistant with their bag weights, you will not be disappointed if the bag weighes as advertised. Fill weight is fill weight. 22oz of down will give a certain amount of warmth. If the FF bag comes to you weighing 3oz more, you can only hope it there is 3 oz more of down and not shell material. If weight is not critical, then it is to your benefit as the bag will be warmer, if the increased down causes more loft. Maybe FF's can confirm the bag you will get will be as advertised, then you be happy.

Ahhh.. I see. I didn't think using it for approaching climbs. That would be kinda nice on logging roads

I wished for an ATV once. Bought a Yamaha Raptor the 1st year they came out. It was nice to knock around on but tired of it (not enough hp) and sold it Maybe the PNW is more fun to ride in. Jedi