Jedi

I've ripped several RURP's out in a row after stepping out of the aiders for some free climbing. With a third of the rope out, the rope stretch allowed the me to touch the ground. Solo aiding, it's so crazy sometimes...... Jedi

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/how_to_200/230_how_to.html In case anyone had any questions about climbing, this should clear things up.

Thanks guys!

This morning, I called Kodak to ask them a question about my slide projector lens. Kodak has stopped making slide projectors. They are a thing of the past. They refered me to a "local repair" shop in a nearby big city. They fella there said they really don't see slide projectors anymore and most manufactures have stopped making them (well the better slide projectors). Made me think of the stack of slides trays on the bookshelf. Probably 800 ot 900 slides. I'm good now but in ten years, if I break my projector, I guess I''l have to to come up with something else. I guess a GOOD slide scanner will be a must. Then a projector like the ones for watching TV will be in order. Pricey setup now. Maybe it will be cheaper down the road. Can anyone recommend a good slide scanner that is not too expensive. The one I have presently, well...it sucks. Jedi

That's it! His mind has cleared since he has gotten back to sea level. He has realized that real climbing is clipping bolts. Maybe he'll start pinkpointing 14a+/14b- and then put up some badass sport routes AT 8000m in the future. Hopefully, that is where our sport is going. Or maybe with the lack of oxygen his brain has endured over the years, he will start ascending fixed lines at the local sport area. Yeah, start "flashing" 5.14 without supplemental 02 with fixed lines and limited sherpa help at the local crag. Sick bivies on bolt #3;) Speaking of sport climbing, I need to get my ass in shape and head to The New River Gorge to climb some warm rock.

We played until we were 16 and no one seemed to remember the 2 or 3 pumps rule. Also some of the guys has the Co2 models that were nearly semi automatics. Usually had to dig those out if hit in the arms or face.

Shin bash: I get get it and have found a great product to keep it at bay. Band Aid Blister Block (or something like that) in the band aid section of your local drug store. I shave the area on my shins that gives me trouble, apply Blister Block and i have had them stay in place for 21 days without the end peeling up (unlike duct tape). Jedi

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10622&sort=1&cat=511&page=1 Jedi

I thought it handled well and I liked the lighter weight. Maybe not made for the abuse it receieved on Huntington. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=10592&sort=1&cat=511&page=1 Jedi

Yeash......I read the subject of the post and did not have time go to link and read about Annapuruna. I should do my homework before I open my big mouth. I apolgize & wish to withdraw my stupid comments. I was in left field for sure. Helicoptor, fixed ropes, style point going out the window for sure! Jedi p.s. see where it says "chronic gumby" under my name? Rightly so!

And you've summited exactly how many 8k meter peaks to gain this righteous perspective? Hmmm? Zero? Crampons, down suits, ice tools, etc. are also not part of the human body, which further invalidates the remaining ascents. NO ONE HAS SUMMITED EVEREST!!! Fucking amateur monday-morning armchair quarterback bullshit. I must have struck a nerve. Then from your armchair Doc, I guess you would consider a client tethered (and tentioned) and hooked up to all the O2 in the world would be a the same as someone hiking up the same peak under their on steam with no 02 the same feat. I am speaking of extremes at both ends of summiting 7 & 8,000 meter peaks to make a point. Both both extremes occur. Unfortunately, I think ascents without 02 happen less often than the other. You are right Doc, I have not been above 6,000 meters. I can only offer my opinion on what I have read and give congrats on what I feel is a more worthy feat. If you climbed the Nose free, I would think you would mention the style in which climbed it. Trust me, people would more impressed than if you had done it the more classic way. Also, it's Thursday. Monday moring was earlier in the week. Long days and pleasent nights Jedi

Without bottled O2 is news worthy. Bottled O2 is aid. It is bringing a mountain down to your climbing ability (what your body can physically do). There are probably less than 100 people in the world who have REALLY climbed Everest. (guessing because it was only about 80+ by 2002) I'm sure Ed could have climbed all 14 sooner, when it was news worthy, but he chose to do it in good style. The best style. Hats off to you Ed! p.s. now before I hurt someone's feelings, I'm sure 7 & 8,000 meter peaks are tough WITH bottled oxygen. I'm not saying that they are not. But it's like free climbing the Nose. You either can "climb" it or aid it. Both are forms of climbing and both can be hard but free climbing the Nose is a more pure form and is a more respectable feat. Jedi

I like my new BD Zenix IQ. Takes 2 AA's Lithium AA's are lighter than standard batt's.

I think you know the answer. If WM is more consistant with their bag weights, you will not be disappointed if the bag weighes as advertised. Fill weight is fill weight. 22oz of down will give a certain amount of warmth. If the FF bag comes to you weighing 3oz more, you can only hope it there is 3 oz more of down and not shell material. If weight is not critical, then it is to your benefit as the bag will be warmer, if the increased down causes more loft. Maybe FF's can confirm the bag you will get will be as advertised, then you be happy.

Ahhh.. I see. I didn't think using it for approaching climbs. That would be kinda nice on logging roads

I wished for an ATV once. Bought a Yamaha Raptor the 1st year they came out. It was nice to knock around on but tired of it (not enough hp) and sold it Maybe the PNW is more fun to ride in. Jedi

I thought it was just my computer. I always have to log in when I visit cc.com. It started happening a couple months ago. Jedi

I recall watching a Korean team go up past Windy Corner, after their smoke break. No crampons, packs IN their sleds and not roped together. Surprisingly, they all made it.

If you don't have to have yellow, you could double up and use: http://www.prolitegear.com/pl124520_5_259.html 16oz and a r-value of 3.6. Sold in the US

Yeah, I've done the whole "shiver all night long" thing to save a few ounces on my sleeping pad. My pad & synthetic bag weighed 29oz. My body heat nearly melted a bowl, in the snow and under the tent. Call me a sissy but I like my RidgeRest. I like the fact the ridges make the pad a little more "breathable" letting moisture escape. The heat reflective abilities of those foil emergency bivy bags have been used in boots & clothing. I wonder if your pad had the same light weight foil attached to one side, if this would be a benefit. I mention this to Cascade Designs a couple years ago but just got the ole' "hmmmm that is an interesting idea". Jedi

If you ditch the camp chair (crazy creek type is more flexible). A "camp chair" can be made in the snow and covered with your Z rest (on nice rest days). But that doesn't help when you are sitting ut a 3 days storm in your tent. Easier on the back if you have a chair. I have a less durable hybrid cook board. It's made of poster board. I have a couple round pieces of 1/4" luon(sp?) board. They are 10" in diameter and act like "hot plates" so the stoves do not melt the posterboard. Hole in the middle for the mega mid tent pole. A set of those rubber point cover thingies might be lighter than a crampon bag if you feel you need something like that. One glove shell should do. Then some replacable liners(easier to dry). I like 3 pair with a good palm. Then use the mitts when it gets really cold. One big warm belay jacket, one shell, warm fleece or synthetic fill mid layer. I would have an bottle parka for at least on 32oz bottle and maybe not the 16oz bottle. I 2nd the 48oz Nalgene cantene pee bottle. Zip-ties are nice in your repair kit and a little bailing wire. Wfinley has a nice list. Jedi

Geeze, I need a couple pair and come to find out BD does not make them anymore. I Googled and the only places that have any left only have XL & S. Anyone know of any local shops that still have any? OR was the only glove that fit my hand well but since Nordstroms bought them, they have changes to their gloves. The fingers are too long, like everyone else's gloves. Thanks for any leads! Jedi

I was reading somewhere that mp3 players do not do well in really cold conditions. Jedi

Hey, I'll rent it. Looks cool. Jedi

Ideally, this would keep insulin levels up and would supply needed glucose but I think Mark knows this is not practical (due to the weight of the GU & remembering to eat it). I don't think they carried more than 50 or 60 GU's each, on the Czech Direct over a 60 hour period. I have never eaten more than 12 GU's during an effort. I just can't remember to eat then every 45 minutes. 12 don't faze my stomach but I can't imagine 2 to 3 times that many.