Billy

Any pics of the nose.....?????

Do I pay you online here? Or should I just buy the book?

SO where is Table Mt? Sorry, I haven't gotten the new book yet.

Scott- Don't worry too much about it. The first few months are the toughest. I was able to take my first "real trip" to canada at about the 5 month mark after he was born. I find that I don't have quite the flexible schedule I used too, but I still climb a fair amount. I usually find that I am more focused and this helps make the day be more productive. I used to waste more days out there when I wasn't 100% pysched to climb. Now, when I go, I am all there mentally. Of course, the most important thing is to keep communicating with your spouse about your goals and needs as well as hers and this will smoothen the ride.

Are you for real? Or is this a troll.....

Greg- Here are some gun stats for you This taken from http://www.danielmauser.com/violence.html Let’s look at the simple facts: this country loses over 15,000 people each year to gun homicides. In Japan, with about half of our population, they lose less than 50 lives. Germany, a third our size, loses less than 200. Great Britain, Australia and Canada combined, less than 350. Gun supporters say that the lower death totals are due to cultural differences. If it was cultural, the death totals would be more random, not the uniformly lower totals in countries with stronger gun controls. Most of these low firearm death countries are ethnically and culturally diverse, just like the U.S. But they have one major thing in common: they all have tight gun restrictions. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist, or someone playing Moses, to see the connection!

If anyone wants gun statistics on a worldly level, they should watch the movie "Bowling For Columbine". Its really pretty frightening. My two cents: -its really an oil war, no matter what you think -readily available guns do increase gun deaths -Bush was told that the uranium info was suspect before he used it in his speech, but he chose to go ahead anyway -news deserves to be slanted to left anyway

Sky- I think the reverso has to be facing down in order to auto lock, ie: belaying two climbers coming up to you who are following. It seems like it might be hard to get the device to be properly oriented on your harness for TR soloing. But it will be interesting to see how it works after you try it.

Yea Wayne, way to go. I just gotta ask the question...was it as committing as the Turkey Monster? The Pickets rule! I'd love to hear the timeline on how it all went....you know, just to get an idea of how fast the second ascentionists need to move.

I wonder how Joe Retard gets lint off of his goretex? Since is a hiker, he probably knows how.

Hal Burton told me that he pinkpointed it. By the way, does any one know a good method of removing lint and dog hair off goretex? If so, will the same method work on schoeller fabric?

Yocum in November and the North Face in late June??? WTF??? No wonder you're worried about the wife and kids.....

Sorry Dave- I'm not talking slander about your routes, the facts speak for themselves. When you can clip more than 1 bolt from a stance, then this constitutes overbolting. When there are bolts next to cracks, this constitutes a bolted crack. I'm also sorry about the comment I made about you needing to leave the area to find to bring some depth to your new routing, but I really think it would help you. This is made not meaning to attack you, but to give you some food for thought.

I have seen the work of Dave at a few places, and it has consisted of overbolted face climbs as well as bolted cracks. He clearly is not able to distinguish where to place bolts, and where not to. He needs to get out of Oregon and go to some other climbing areas, to get a better handle on new-routing. Only then will he understand what everyone is complaining about.

Sorry Desey, snivel away you little trailbreaker. You'll get no sympathy for even venturing over there. Maybe you should hone your seemingly supernatural powers of observation.

The snow right now is pretty horrible on some parts of the mountain except the hogsback route (climber compacted) There is breakable crust on top of sugar. Leutholds might need some time yet.

I'd have to agree with RBW. The best way to do the marathon is to climb the Hayden glacier to col between Middle and North. The Pole Creek approach is way faster and easier than the west side approach. Forget about that ugly SE ridge on North. Leave skis at the col. Climb North and come back. Wizz up North Ridge of Middle w/skis and ski the SE Ridge of Middle as far down as possible. Skin up to Prouty Headwall, continue booting as it steepens up, go to the summit of South, ski the standard South Sister route back to the Cascade Lakes Highway. Easy hitchhike to Bend to the pub. The best time to do it is right when the Cascade Lakes highway opens. Could be any time now. They may open the section to Devils Lake TH before the whole thing opens.

Mystery Towers on the auction block Though not as famous the neighboring Fisher Towers, the Mystery Towers, in the Onion Creek drainage north of Moab, Utah, are an established destination on the desert horror-show circuit. However, if a proposed State Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA) sale goes through, these tottering sandstone pinnacles could be purchased by a private party who might declare the towers off limits. The Nature Conservancy (TNC) has made a bid on the land in order to keep access public and according to the Access Fund, the TNC needs your support: Please write a letter to SITLA, at the following address, urging them to support conservation and access to public lands by selling the “Onion Hill parcel” to the TNC. Surface SITLA Kim Christy, Assistant Director 675 East 500 South, Suite 500 Salt Lake City, Utah 84102 or e-mail: kimchristy@utah.gov

spring or late fall?

Rumsfeld is a jackass. And Gregw, you shouldn't believe the propaganda. There are plenty of other governments who supress and brutalize, yet we aren't messing with them. We are messing with Iraq because we can and because there is oil for our american SUV's at stake.

I think the route (SE Couloir)is totally happening right now. The weather is obviously not happening, but you should be able to drive to the Jack Lake Trailhead now, which makes it a unique time to go do it. Usually, by the time the trailhead melts out, the route is out of shape.

Why not buy a leash with a buckle? Skip the water knot. Thats old school dude...

Nice job you guys. I have seen that "east moraine of the coe" in the fall before and there is a lot of potential. That sounds like a great route. I think sometimes those routes come in in Nov/Dec when its cold enough. There is a goldmine in there.

Wow, that is some detailed report. One thing you left out is how many pickets you need for the rappels?

Apparent lack of ice in Oregon? I don't think so, Cracked and Klenke, you just have to know where to look. Hint: its not all on Mt Hood. Down there in hick country, Oregon climbers have been harvesting for awhile. Perhaps the Starbucks is getting to you?