Billy

Let's see a pic of Ice Hizzay on Middle Sizzay...

Check out this discussion here: http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cascadeclimbers.com%2Fforum%2Fubbthreads.php%2Fubb%2Fshowflat%2FNumber%2F652850%2Fpage%2F1%23Post652850

I'd like to report a sighting of Iain on Frigidaire Buttress a few weeks ago. He was in the company of a school teacher and a coffee drinker. I believe their names were Richard and Bill. Rumor has it he is schussing somewhere in the north country at present. No further verfication is available at this time.

I found this on their website: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette/general/conditions/pamelia/index.html Has anyone been in there and seen it? Hoping to get in there in a couple of weeks.

My vote would be leave Karate as is, its easy to protect the downclimb into the belay with nuts. We don't need to sanitize everything. If you want to replace some bolts, Santiam Hwy Ledges could sure use a facelift, it would be a great route!

Mark- I got a pretty good look at the ridge that leads from the Bear's Tooth down to the col between it and Mooses Tooth from the summit of Mooses Tooth. It looked like a pretty cool ridge climb of a moderate angle. There would definately be some rock pitches and the whole thing looked like it connected nicely. That is, we didn't see any show stopper section. We thought about doing after H&E's, but it snowed and we felt that the broad gulley leading to the saddle would be a dangerous place to be. It would be a great climb if you are based on the Root Canal.

I went in 97 and we went with ITMC out of Bishkek. They arranged everything for transportation. I am not sure if they are still around, but everything worked out pretty well in a 3rd world sort of way. Those are some spectacular mountains. I wouldn't recomend walking to BC. It would really take some time. We flew the Russian Heli, and although it seemed to be the most dangerous part of the trip, it saved about 5 days in each direction. Back then, you had to have an invite from somebody there to get a visa, and ITMC did this for us. Not sure if you have arranged that yet, but they won't let you in without it. Have a great time. The BC was great!

Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........

Mon Col- The NW Ridge is a long way from anywhere in the winter. You can do one of the routes in the bowl like 9 O'clock or 11 O'Clock Coulior in one day from the Mt Bachelor Parking Lot, even without a sled. With the NW Ridge, you are probably looking at 3 days or so. Which would be a fun outing in and of itself. If you are comfortable on 45 degree snow for 9 O'clock, 50 deg for 11 O'clock, you won't need to bring any gear with you. These routes are covered pretty well in Oregon High. Have a great time out there!

Good work Rodney, yup its Paulina!

Oregon Ice and some scruff. Good fun today.

My #1 vote would be the bolts on Santiam Hwy Ledges. Awesome route! It would be even better with traffic.

Santiam is an awesome route. There are a few scary bolts on the first pitch, but the crux on the second pitch has a good 3/8 bolt, and then you can put in some gear also. I would say that it is 5.8r in places. Do the Thumb while you are up there too as a bonus summit. The ridge climb to the summit is really cool and long! Rack- one set of cams to #3 camalot and nuts.

Don't do it!

Can we move this thread to Cafe Sensitivo already.......

My buddy just climbed it last week. Schrund is casual, just go up the right side of the glacier. You can get good rock anchors the whole way. For some reason most folks go left up and around but just stay right. Its steeper, more intersting climbing. He only needed his second tool, for a short pitch, so there is not too much groveling involved.

That is really too bad...as Markd says there are some land issues (private land, closed areas) at some of the places on Shapp's list. Who is Ron Horton? He obviously doesn't have the low down on which areas might be really affected by publishing them in a book.

Chris- you know after you pass your alpine exam, you will, in fact, be the judge of us all.

Last I heard he was seen at Swiss train station munching happily on a Nanga ParBrat.

ALERT! NPS will soon announce a $500 climber's fee, up from the current $200. This way they have 18 months for a comment period so it can go into effect 2007. They are playing their cards by announcing a higher $750-$1000 fee and then settling for a $500 fee. It's a mind game so we think we are lucky and should be happy it isn't more. NPS is trying to push a cost-recovery agenda throughout the park system where by the users cover the cost associated with operating the parks. The poster child for why climbers are expensive is the Llama helicopter which costs upwards of $100,000 a year to lease. What NPS does not mention is the Llama budget comes out of a state-wide fire fighting budget, not the Park. NPS claims Denali climber's cost $1.9 million to manage. Divided by the number of climbers one gets the $1000 a head figure. What NPS does not mention in this argument is that it costs $10-20 million (I have heard different estimates from park personnel) to run the entire Park. Cost recovery spread out amongst all the users of the Park would result in a $100 plus entrance fee, but "that would be political suicide." Mountain climbing is protected under ANILCA as a normal use of public lands. Climbers do not make up a large political force and they do not complain like other user groups, namely snow machine users and air services. Any mention of limits or price increases to the air services results in a stream of complaint letters to Senator Ted Stevens and the action is likely stopped in its tracks. I urge you to send a letter to Ted Stevens saying you do not support the fee increase targeted at climbers. We need to get the word out on this or it will quietly happen and only rich people will climb Denali and Foraker. I should add that there has also been talk at NPS to charge all climbers entering the Park the same amount, whether they intend to climb Denali or a no name snow bump on the Eldridge. The rational there was why just single out Denali climbers. Send to: The Honorable Ted Stevens United States Senate 522 Hart Senate Office Building Washington, D.C. 20510 (202) 224-3004 (202) 224-2354 FAX email: www.stevens.senate.gov/contact.cfm

Elkhorns, Strawberry, Cooper Spur..ummm... I mean Reid Headwall.

That is completely nuts, why would anyone do that!

Middle Sister NE Face Upper Part of E Butt of North Sister

The above photo is the north side start of the E Buttress of North Sister. Feb 2002.