Billy

"Move slowly behind me and plunge your shaft into my axehole"

The Eliot headwall is best done in winter or spring. I think it would be pretty jingus right now. Sunshine may be OK, but the freezing level is pretty high. Its pretty straight forward if snow conditions are firm.

Sorry Office Space- The moment you said that you could lead 5.9 at Little Si, so you thought you'd be ready for Stuart, you pretty much invited the dogs in on you. Its kind of like saying that you can lead 5.9 at the gym, so now you're ready for the Steck Salathe.

Just use one daisy. Then, you'll never be falling on a lower daisy, you'll have the rope clipped through.

mneagle- great report! What are the best seasons to climb in Bolivia?

Kalun D- Did you need boots/ice axe/ or crampons to get down the Glacier? Was that a big deal or no problem? Also- were you able to get water from snow patches all along the way? Thanks!

Kalun D- Sounds like you did well! So, where were the bivies? Did you make it in to the base and then climb all the way to the notch in one long day? Then do the upper ridge and descent and the hike out in a second long day? If so.. you are man!

Kalun D- Which approach strategy did you use? In from the south? And how long was the whole trip?

Great route. Bring a set of nuts and a set of friends to #3. You may be on some snow on the approach, but then again you may be able to avoid it.

Synthetic bags rule on multi day alpine routes where you can't hang out and dry your down bag. In the colder ranges, where you are drying most of your wet socks, gloves and inners out in the bag, the sythetic bags are clearly better. Especially when you have to pack your bag wet and then take it out and sleep in it that night. For multi day routes in the cascades where the weather is good, a down bag is fantastic for the weight. And if the weather gets bad on the last day or 2 you'll be fine. Synthetic compresibility is a bummer though and there is no way around it. Down rules in that department!

Scott- Did you camp below the route? Or bivy on the route?

wow- you onsighted the route, you are so bad.

T- The Prouty Headwall on South Sister is in excellent shape for skiing right now, and so are the west aspects of Middle Sister. The SE Ridge on Middle has some good shots as well.

I would definately take a guided instructional course. Its worth all the money you'll pay. Reading a book and going out to try it only will get you so far.

this sava-whatever-his-name-is is a loony toon. No Crowds on Libery Ridge? C'MON DUDE, WISE UP

Pole Creek trailhead is now driveable. About 2 weeks ago, the trail was snow covered about a mile or so up it.

Zenolith- What routes did you have a look at? Could you see the gully routes and/or Elliot Headwall?

Has anyone been up to or seen the North Side of Hood lately?

I can't say that I'd recommend Leutholds for a first timer. You really have to be able to french technique. On the South Side you are just in big footsteps, so you really aren't having to bend your ankles etc.

Does anyone have any beta for the SW ridge of Peak 11,300 in the Ruth Gorge?

Leutholds has been skied numerous times. I think the main thing is to get on it before the big runnel forms in the hourglass.

Everyone needs to get away from their computers, take the day off, and go climbing. Really people come on..... [This message has been edited by Billy (edited 03-23-2001).]

I don't know from first hand knowledge, but I would say it would be good, cause we're having freeze thaws now. Its at least worth going to have a look. [This message has been edited by Billy (edited 03-21-2001).]

I climbed 11 oclock a week ago or so and got a great look at the headwall. The rock looks pretty bad, but there are ways around that. You might only have to climb a short section of it. Of more concern I think would be the snow softness, it gets so much sun. Pre- dawn on a cold day would be good I think. Look for a 6000 foot freezing level day or colder. Hope this info helps.

We climbed 11 oclock couloir on Broken Top on Sunday 3-11. Good step kicking was had on the route. On the traverse to the NW ridge it was windscoured. Perfect cramponing. Anything south facing was heating up and getting soft rapidly. West and north aspects were wind scoured. I'd expect similar conditions in the rest of the Three Sisters