I climbed 11 oclock a week ago or so and got a great look at the headwall. The rock looks pretty bad, but there are ways around that. You might only have to climb a short section of it. Of more concern I think would be the snow softness, it gets so much sun. Pre- dawn on a cold day would be good I think. Look for a 6000 foot freezing level day or colder. Hope this info helps.