Billy

Santiam is an awesome route. There are a few scary bolts on the first pitch, but the crux on the second pitch has a good 3/8 bolt, and then you can put in some gear also. I would say that it is 5.8r in places. Do the Thumb while you are up there too as a bonus summit. The ridge climb to the summit is really cool and long! Rack- one set of cams to #3 camalot and nuts.

Don't do it!

Can we move this thread to Cafe Sensitivo already.......

My buddy just climbed it last week. Schrund is casual, just go up the right side of the glacier. You can get good rock anchors the whole way. For some reason most folks go left up and around but just stay right. Its steeper, more intersting climbing. He only needed his second tool, for a short pitch, so there is not too much groveling involved.

That is really too bad...as Markd says there are some land issues (private land, closed areas) at some of the places on Shapp's list. Who is Ron Horton? He obviously doesn't have the low down on which areas might be really affected by publishing them in a book.

Chris- you know after you pass your alpine exam, you will, in fact, be the judge of us all.

Last I heard he was seen at Swiss train station munching happily on a Nanga ParBrat.

I've got one for sale. Dropping price to $125 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post539035

ALERT! NPS will soon announce a $500 climber's fee, up from the current $200. This way they have 18 months for a comment period so it can go into effect 2007. They are playing their cards by announcing a higher $750-$1000 fee and then settling for a $500 fee. It's a mind game so we think we are lucky and should be happy it isn't more. NPS is trying to push a cost-recovery agenda throughout the park system where by the users cover the cost associated with operating the parks. The poster child for why climbers are expensive is the Llama helicopter which costs upwards of $100,000 a year to lease. What NPS does not mention is the Llama budget comes out of a state-wide fire fighting budget, not the Park. NPS claims Denali climber's cost $1.9 million to manage. Divided by the number of climbers one gets the $1000 a head figure. What NPS does not mention in this argument is that it costs $10-20 million (I have heard different estimates from park personnel) to run the entire Park. Cost recovery spread out amongst all the users of the Park would result in a $100 plus entrance fee, but "that would be political suicide." Mountain climbing is protected under ANILCA as a normal use of public lands. Climbers do not make up a large political force and they do not complain like other user groups, namely snow machine users and air services. Any mention of limits or price increases to the air services results in a stream of complaint letters to Senator Ted Stevens and the action is likely stopped in its tracks. I urge you to send a letter to Ted Stevens saying you do not support the fee increase targeted at climbers. We need to get the word out on this or it will quietly happen and only rich people will climb Denali and Foraker. I should add that there has also been talk at NPS to charge all climbers entering the Park the same amount, whether they intend to climb Denali or a no name snow bump on the Eldridge. The rational there was why just single out Denali climbers. Send to: The Honorable Ted Stevens United States Senate 522 Hart Senate Office Building Washington, D.C. 20510 (202) 224-3004 (202) 224-2354 FAX email: www.stevens.senate.gov/contact.cfm

Elkhorns, Strawberry, Cooper Spur..ummm... I mean Reid Headwall.

That is completely nuts, why would anyone do that!

Bump

Middle Sister NE Face Upper Part of E Butt of North Sister

The above photo is the north side start of the E Buttress of North Sister. Feb 2002.

For Sale- North Face Baltoro Jacket, Black. Bought in 2002, and only used 12 days. Excellent Condition, size XL. Great Alaska parka. Please PM if interested. $180

Its probably a bit too warm. The inversion is strong, and its warm up high. Something might be there, but climbing at Smith would be a great choice. Its perfect right now.

As of last Wed, there was some stiffness happening. Its been pretty cold since then. If I go up there I will report. Gotta love this weather!

Just have kids. Then you always climb with no sleep, and you have to climb when you really don't want to. Now that, is alpinism.

Climb: Broken Top- South Sister SE Aspect- Date of Climb: 11/23/2005 Trip Report: Yesterday Richard Pumpington and I decided to go deep in the Three Sisters and ski the SE aspect of South Sister down to Green Lakes. Its a great line, and I have been wanting to get on it for a long time. Unfortunately, its a long way from anywhere when the conditions are good. We thought we might find some good condtions and we were right. It was a perfect spring day, with some good corn and some variable stuff but it was all skiable. We approached from Broken Top Bowl and skied around the west side of Broken Top at about 7900'. It was a great ski down into Green Lakes and and an even better ski on the SE aspect of South, with a 2200' foot run from where we stopped. Richard gettin jiggy with early season conditions on the West side of Broken Top The arrow marks the top of our run. Richard enjoying the great run down with BT in the background Gear Notes: ski crampons would have been great Approach Notes: Long, 10.5 hours car to car. Sled would be really helpful. Almost 24 miles of skiiing round trip, with 6400 of elevation gain and loss.

Oops here is a link to the picture of the area: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/505/459East_Face_of_Rock_Creek_Butte-med.jpg

Climb: Elkhorn Ice- East Face of Rock Creek Butte-Rarely Formed and Talk+Action= A Good Route Date of Climb: 11/17/2005 Trip Report: Last friday Vert and I had a blast going into the Elkhorns and climbed some good and some thin ice. We climbed the route on the right of the main face which had some cool exit moves on rock protected by pins. ]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/505/459East_Face_of_Rock_Creek_Butte-med.jpg[/img] We also did the big pillar in the center, which according to Vert rarely forms that good. When the back of fell out, we bailed and left a screw and and a v-thread. The climbing is really good out there, and there is huge potential for routes that go all the way up. On the way over, I checked out Strawberry, and most of After Image is formed, but not yet touching down. I was able to drive to the gate in my low rider Saturn Wagon. I would suspect that there is a bunch of stuff to do. Gear Notes: screw, pins shoulda had nuts and a few small cams Approach Notes: Long, we should have brought the sled, but that was Vert's deparment

Climb: Tumalo Mt- Date of Climb: 11/8/2005 Trip Report: Skied Tumalo today. It was fantastic with good coverage. Oh yea, and the snow was unreal. Cold clear weather and no wind. Approach Notes: pretty easy

Better bring the bulletproof body armor.

Did it last year in early October. We used the SE Face of Torment for access. The glacier was no problem at all. The climbing on the SE face was great. Clean, easy to mid 5th, with fixed anchors (slung horns). Getting on the face from the glacier was super easy. Go do it!