Billy

Dave- if you do a point forecast, it won't show freezing levels. Try searching things like these on the Noaa pages: West Slopes of the North Cascades East Slopes of the North Cascades These more generalized forecasts show freezing levels where the point forecasts don't. At least that's what I've found.

Since you were using the ATC Guide, just throw a prussic or a klemheist on the loaded strand and you've got an instant 3:1 haul system. There is a bunch of friction, but I have done it before for short distances.

For what its worth, I was up on the Eliot a couple of days ago, and it would be very possible to go up the West Morraine of the Eliot, drop down, and cross the very lower glacier, with out crampons, and go back up the ice climbers trail to the East Morraine of the Eliot. The only bummer would be the immense amount of scree getting down off the West Morraine. The lower glacier is really casual, hard with slots visible, but enough gravel and rocks to walk on.

Some pics of North during better condtions than now. The ice shot is on the E Butt in the winter. The small shot is the Bowling Alley in May. The main shot of the East side of the mountain is taken in Feb, 2004. This is some of the best climbing south of Mt Hood in the winter.

Pete Absolon was recently killed by a trundled block in the Winds. He was a fantastic guy, and he will be missed. http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/news.php#216

Word on the street is that the traverse is completely snow free.

I climbed that thing a while back, nothing but choss and a scare-fest. Better stick to the security of Morning Glory Wall.

Ken Nichols....Madman or Messiah?

KEVBONE: takes a piss at Broughtons, or maybe it was Beacon and then whines about it after he realizes he may have contacted some poison oak on his member. Claims he can't send Classic Crack after such an experience. Much more whining ensues.

Trip: Mt Jefferson - West Rib Date: 5/24/2007 Trip Report: Rob and I climbed the West Rib of Jefferson May 24/25. I thought the route was an unsung classic in the Oregon Cascades. The solitude was incredible, and the climbing not too bad either. The Pamelia trail on the way in is a little beat up from the debris flow, but its pretty easy to navigate with the flagging that the FS has put up, you just have to keep looking. Crossing Milk Creek, which is now a huge gouge, was sporty. Actually not the creek crossing, but downclimbing into the gouge and climbing back up out of it. The bushwack up the North Fork was steep and tiring, but the actual amount of bushwacking isn't too sustained. Once you get on snow in the creek at about 5600, its good cruising up to a camp on the top of the timbered rib at 6600. Its a little slice on the North Cascades, right here in Oregon. The Rib had really poor snow conditions while we were crossing the upper Milk Creek Drainage, but once we got up on the Rib at about 7000, the snow firmed up again. The climbing up the Rib to the summit pinnacle was low angle up to about 35 degrees, and goes on forever. What a great ski run this would make. The summit pinnacle was steep snice and some rime that you did actually have to climb and not step around. It was a fitting end to a spectacular climb. No gear whatsoever. Bring two ropes to rappel off of the North Summit, or do the downclimb, as we did. This was full value. We left camp at 03:15, summitted at 09:10, and back to camp at 12:10. After climbing we got back to camp and hiked out arriving at the car at 16:30. Milk Creek Gouge Scwacking the North Fork The West Rib from Camp Summit Pinnacle Rob approaching the summit Gear Notes: Snow pro, but no screws needed. Approach Notes: Pack light, its not your average Oregon Cascades approach. When trying to gain the top of the timbered rib that splits the forks of Milk Creek, go way left up the North Fork Gulley, and slowly swing back right. If you stay too close to the creek its a slide alder festival.

I just did the West Rib of Jeff on May 24/25. Skiing the Rib would be awesome! The summit pinnacle was full value with rime.

Let's see a pic of Ice Hizzay on Middle Sizzay...

Check out this discussion here: http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cascadeclimbers.com%2Fforum%2Fubbthreads.php%2Fubb%2Fshowflat%2FNumber%2F652850%2Fpage%2F1%23Post652850

I'd like to report a sighting of Iain on Frigidaire Buttress a few weeks ago. He was in the company of a school teacher and a coffee drinker. I believe their names were Richard and Bill. Rumor has it he is schussing somewhere in the north country at present. No further verfication is available at this time.

I found this on their website: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette/general/conditions/pamelia/index.html Has anyone been in there and seen it? Hoping to get in there in a couple of weeks.

My vote would be leave Karate as is, its easy to protect the downclimb into the belay with nuts. We don't need to sanitize everything. If you want to replace some bolts, Santiam Hwy Ledges could sure use a facelift, it would be a great route!

Mark- I got a pretty good look at the ridge that leads from the Bear's Tooth down to the col between it and Mooses Tooth from the summit of Mooses Tooth. It looked like a pretty cool ridge climb of a moderate angle. There would definately be some rock pitches and the whole thing looked like it connected nicely. That is, we didn't see any show stopper section. We thought about doing after H&E's, but it snowed and we felt that the broad gulley leading to the saddle would be a dangerous place to be. It would be a great climb if you are based on the Root Canal.

I went in 97 and we went with ITMC out of Bishkek. They arranged everything for transportation. I am not sure if they are still around, but everything worked out pretty well in a 3rd world sort of way. Those are some spectacular mountains. I wouldn't recomend walking to BC. It would really take some time. We flew the Russian Heli, and although it seemed to be the most dangerous part of the trip, it saved about 5 days in each direction. Back then, you had to have an invite from somebody there to get a visa, and ITMC did this for us. Not sure if you have arranged that yet, but they won't let you in without it. Have a great time. The BC was great!

Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........

Mon Col- The NW Ridge is a long way from anywhere in the winter. You can do one of the routes in the bowl like 9 O'clock or 11 O'Clock Coulior in one day from the Mt Bachelor Parking Lot, even without a sled. With the NW Ridge, you are probably looking at 3 days or so. Which would be a fun outing in and of itself. If you are comfortable on 45 degree snow for 9 O'clock, 50 deg for 11 O'clock, you won't need to bring any gear with you. These routes are covered pretty well in Oregon High. Have a great time out there!

Still haven't sold it. How about $125..... pm if interested

Good work Rodney, yup its Paulina!

Oregon Ice and some scruff. Good fun today.

My #1 vote would be the bolts on Santiam Hwy Ledges. Awesome route! It would be even better with traffic.