mattp

In 1989 I worked on some research on Mt. Rainier where we took climbers up the Emmons Glacier route, half receiving antacid and half receiving sugar pills. We also did physiological testing on the way up and down. We found no correlation between the use of antacids and wellness, but I believe ours was the first published study to link lung capacity to altitude illness(I think it was peak flow or VO2Max or something. Hornbein was one of the advisors on this project. I'm surprised there was anything left in this fight as late as 1996.

Eric, I was answering your questions about this at the Vertical World event. I would add that we have not seen either the Forest Service or the Park Service express support for this proposal, as far as I know. I believe the North Cascades Conservation Council (NCCC), who was involved and maybe instrumental in the formation of the North Cascades National Park, put this proposal together but there have been some efforts to distance that group from this particular campaign. While I don't think the park has managed things the way I think they should, or could, I'm very happy to see the North Cascades recognized and preserved as a national gem the way that parks are. The National Park Service has recently promoted an outreach campaign advocating an opportunity to experience nature. The Governor has too. I'm not sure the Forest Service has put it the same way, but I think that this is a general message that we can expand upon. North Cascades expansion or not, we need to advocate for public access to public lands, as long as it may occur in a long-term sustainable manner.

I've enjoyed the route in September, and others on cc.com have panned the route as a chosspile even early in the climbing season. I think you will get varying opinions on this - and the source of these is at least somewhat apart from current snow levels.

I once descended via the Sickle after climbing Mowich Face, and made the traverse over St. Andrews Rocks. I would not recommend this. Very scary, with hundreds of seracs overhead in sunlight on the Sickle, and the 'Rocks were not friendly either.

I used to say that driving to the mountains was probably more dangerous than the climbing but the fact is there are lots of hazards out there.

I've witnessed several rockfall events at Squire Creek Wall, and one was second only to a huge rockfall event I saw in the Bugaboos many years ago. There was a large event in Squamish a recently. These events occurred during stable weather. Exfoliating granite does fall down.

I might be into going to take a look at the Blueberry Route on Sunday if somebody wants to go.

That thing is crazy looking but it has been there since 3:00 Rock was first developed. Yes, it is not a question of whether it will fall one day, but when. But that is true of just about everything we climb.

You ask good questions about what kind of clothing to purchase or whatever but I'd say that if you just up your game in slow steps you'll do fine. You've done winter backcountry expeditions in the Adirondaks? You're ready to try a winter outing in the Sierra or ... The gear you carry is not as important as you might think. Your success on a climb of Mt. Shasta will not depend on whether you bring down or synthetic insulation. McKinley and Aconcagua were first climbed well before modern fabrics were invented. You mentioned Denali and Aconcagua. If your goal is to climb famous peaks, and maybe the seven summits, take it slow. A good experiencial background may help you when you attempt the more dangerous summits.

Congratulations!

Fish and Wildlife do not post current information, as far as I know. We'll put it on washingtonclimbers.org as soon as we have the info and we are in contact with the wildlife officer every spring.

I'm with Lucky here. I've had more friends die in Climbing accidents that all other causes combined. And all of them had many years' experience.

Has anyone been this way lately?

You're kidding, right? Not only are there "eligibility" rules carefully designed to deny voting rights such as voter ID requirements to curb the virtually non-existing problem of voter fraud, there are deliberate manipulations such as the lack of Diebold voting machines in urban districts that contributed to Bush getting elected in 2004, ongoing practices said to be aimed at preventing felons from voting that result in eligible voters not being allowed to vote, etc.

Has anybody here approached the west side of Glacier Peak via the Meadow Mountain Trail / Fire Mountain High Route? I am told this is used to approach to climbs like Kennedy Glacier and Frostbite Ridge.

Nice one, gents! As to the name: there has been for 30 years or more a little "tension" since "rock climbing" naming sensibility was transported to "alpine" climbs but there remains some sensitivity. Places like the 'Gunks have had climbs with joke and innuendo names for at least 50 and maybe 75 years but the alpine realm has been different. I know, there was Watusi Rodeo, 30 years ago, so it's been a long time since we called every new MOUNTAIN route the left hand variation of the west face of Mount X, but I understand why somebody would not appreciate the humor in naming a route after somebody who shot a president. Again, though, NICE ONE GENTS. And Wilkes-Booth it is.

What's wrong with Rodger's Corner? It's not a GREAT climb but it has some interesting climbing on it.

Sunny, warm, nice.

The weather man predicts good conditions. I'd like to climb a classic or two or work on an ongoing project.

Great images as always! Thanks for the eye candy!

I've been talking with Fred and I spoke with his publisher last week. They do not intend a new edition, but did think they could make some corrections. I have a rough draft of an update for the entry regarding Whitehorse Mountain, and I'd like to prepare a few more and see if they like them. Mount Baring would be an excellent choice, but I don't know if it will be easy to put it together. I'd certainly help but I've never been closer than the dark and muddy lake down below. Comments invited: first draft of corrections for Whitehorse Mountain. I'd like to verify that East Face description, and another question I have is whether anybody who has climbed the Glacier Route has found there to be a need to warn against climbing the actual glacier in the basin before you top out over a steep roll and climb onto the ice cap. When I climbed that way we found some crevasses on the lower glacier and avoided them, but I'm not sure there is any particularly notable hazard there.

I'll do what I can to help him with this project. I'm not sure what he has in mind for Darrington but he has covered peaks and not crags in past volumes and I suspect that will be his practice here. Also, I bet there are a lot of updates for some of the more popular peaks in the guide which would serve a lot of users and which are in some ways harder to come by than new route reports. I don't know just what the time frame and scope of the project may be but lets do what we can to help update this remarkable resource and historical record for the central Cascade region of Washington!

Lots of good information here. For easy travel, try to go some time after it has not snowed recently and the freezing level has gone high and then gone down. If there has been an extended stable period you will probably find a previously tracked trail to Colchuck Lake on the west end or Snow Lake on the east end, and snowshoes may not be needed. This would be "backpacking conditions" although steep slopes may pose a risk of sliding and hitting a rock or tree. Be careful about using crampons on crusty snow if you or your companions do not know how to use an ice axe for self arrest, and be careful about climbing steep slopes anywhere. There are dangerous slopes on the approaches via either Snow Creek or Mountaineer Creek.

For winter attempts on Rainier as well as other Cascades peaks, good climbing conditions (firm surface and minimal avalanche hazard) are not predictable via any long term forecast. If you can adjust your climbing itinerary, try to go when it has not snowed for at least a week and, even better, when the freezing level rose up high before the dry spell.

During the winter there is really only one crag for western Washington that presents reliable conditions on easy climbs: Mt. Erie. I know, there will be several people here who will argue that blah blah blah is good but, really, go to Mt. Erie. The Zig Zag route, via the 'Undercover" variation (which is probably now the standard route) will entertain. It is well protected with gear placements that are not difficult. You can get some good practice leads at a bunch of routes at Mt. Erie but that one is a good start. Head to Castle Rock, in Leavenworth, in the Spring. Maybe try the Beckey route on Liberty Bell in the summer. Although there may be better crag climbing at Smith Rock (Oregon) and at various destinations in British Columbia, Washington has a wealth of climbing opportunity that should not be overlooked.