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Everything posted by pope

  1. 5.15

    Dude, you're like that chic in Fatal Attraction. Leave me alone or I'll have to secure a restraining order.
  2. rappel in the middle of asgard pass

    100 routes in 20 years? It took me until lunch one day to get in 30. With the arrival of three children who need to eat, I gave up soloing long ago. Back then I kept it to myself and enjoyed the solitude, although I never thought of it as a religious experience. I think I've posted the photo twice....once after Dwayner encouraged me to send it to Viktor, as some kind of statement against sport climbing, and once when I grew tired of certain members of cc.com suggesting my opposition to sport climbing was motivated by a lack of technical ability. Later I obtained all the photos from that day and posted them as an interesting TR. Not impressed? Nobody asked you to be, although you and a handful of jack-donkeys have obsessed over it, constantly referencing the photos in your posts. Funny thing about that. Contrary to your suggestion, a camera didn't "just happen" to be present when I was soloing. My friend, with very little climbing expeience, wanted to photograph some climbing, so I suggested that Brass Balls might offer some spectacular shots, especially if taken from an unusual perspective. A plan was hatched to dedicate a day to climbing photography. I just happened to be climbing solo.
  3. 5.15

    BS.... no man, i know i've flung poo, but i was curious about your learning. i couldn't figure out what it was, so i asked. like, was it that you learned what kinda shoes he wears, or that he tries hella hard, or he keeps truckin, or yells a lot, or what. or that the euros shout a lot of encouragement and speak european. i don't know what it is, and you are playing coy. i am simply curious, sincerely. Mostly what I learned after viewing this MULTIPLE times (and of course you get an improved understanding every time you watch)....is that Chris (yeah, even though we've never met, I feel like I know him well enough for the first-name reference)....Chris...Oh my gosh, he just doesn't quit! I don't think the word impossible is known to this man-child! Just makes me wanna throw the Gri-Gri in the car and go fling myself at my project RIGHT NOW! If I ever see him down at the Vertical World, I'm gonna just walk right up to him and hug him. And I'd do that, because he seems so REAL, you know? Like, I mean....he's like this total icon and everything and yet I'll bet he's the kind of guy who would just indulge a totally anonymous guy like me in some fascinating conversation. God. GOD! That's it, I'm outa here. I'm heading out to Exit 38 RIGHT NOW! That's what I learned. BTW, the route he's climbing, is that an old bolt ladder? Anybody know?
  4. rappel in the middle of asgard pass

    But seriously, we're complaining about a couple of slings around a tree and a fixed rap line as an alternative to hiking down a trail. Let me remind the contributors to this chorus: 1. While offensive, there certainly are bigger impacts to worry about, like highways, ski resorts, global warming, space junk....and did I mention.... SPORT CLIMBING? 2. Perhaps we should view such developments with open minds. Recall that sticky rubber, kernmantle ropes, cam nuts and even 12-point crampons were intially scorned by the old guard. We would be wise to recognize cutting-edge applications of technology when they appear. I'll bet even pioneers like C.G. and A.W. wouldn't object (you know who I'm talking about). 3. Like SPORT CLIMBING, rap descents are just another mode of mountain travel, increasing our choices. Impacts notwithstanding, sliding down a rope next to a perfectly good hiking trail is REALLY FUN! I suggest those of you who shit all over our rocks with power-drilled, rap-placed bolts remember the following: IT'S ALL GOOD!
  5. rappel in the middle of asgard pass

    Yes, let's see! What are you gonna solo for us, funny guy? I'll show you mine.....if you'll show me yours!
  6. [TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 12/27/2009

    Great route, nice report. Regarding the ice on Denman...I once encountered some drunk guys camped at the base who claimed they had climbed it. He also claimed to have pitched off near the top of the Zipper, resulting in a fall all the way to the base. Without injury. Could have been the beer talking.
  7. Red Rocks vid

    Is that an old bolt ladder?
  8. rappel in the middle of asgard pass

    Exactly. If you participate in sport climbing, tell me how it is you can get all bent out of shape over rap anchors, when you advocate this: Where's the outrage?
  9. Good TV

  10. Climbing mentor. Close friend. One of the best guys I know.....not the most savvy but.. He is like a brother to me. Right on. The brotherhood of the rope. He probably saved you a world of trouble (fist fight with a logger, night in jail, hangover....and nothing to show for it but an embarassing rash and a love child or two).
  11. Oh my Gosh! What a blown opportunity! And all over shitty beer! How could you forgive him for that blunder?
  12. pope, ... i've been trying to come up with a response, and have nothing on this. i'll be sure not to use wool mittens while leading ice. No response necessary! Thanks for sharing your adventures, and thanks for a post that brought back memories (of being scared out of my wooly knickers).
  13. OLD PRO

  14. I gotcha beat. Late summer, me and Dwayner and Fairweather hiked Shriner Peak in MRNP (off HWY 123), described by Spring/Manning as "one of the loneliest trails in the Park." Among the more interesting fauna observed was a female hiker (accompanied by her smirking male friend), descending from the Shriner lookout after a photo-shoot, of which one would presume she had been the primary subject. Apparently the photo-shoot had run behind schedule and they were late for their next appointment. We reached this conclusion because upon meeting this party, we observed the subject modeling the clothing in which she had previously posed....NOTHING BUT A PAIR OF BOOTS! Unsure of the socially acceptable greetings and discourse expected during such an encounter, we merely advised her to apply liberally a sunscreen of appropriate SPF rating. I attempted politely to obscure my view by covering my eyes, but through cracks between my fingers I observed that the girl had carefully groomed and THOROUGHLY SHAVED herself for the photo shoot.
  15. Buckaroo and I did Careno Right years ago....he claims it is harder than any required climbing on Drury Falls (but I can't confirm). I led this using Chouinard rigids and Zero-X tools (the Northwall-X with a reverse curve pick and the axe with a classic pick). Those tools predate the X-15 and featured superbly balanced straight shafts that were a composite of aluminum, graphite and fiberglass. Horrible to grip that fiberglass with wool mitts! I recall fat, wet ice into which screws turned easily. I couldn't find a belay anchor anywhere. Buckaroo promised not to fall and I gave him an anchorless sitting hip belay, with feet kicked into wet snow. The same year I climbed Narada Falls and watched it collapse two hours later, producing VW-sized blocks. That was the last year I climbed ice.
  16. First Ascents

    Real purdy. Even a 1976 winter ascent (Carlos Buhler) on that one.
  17. First Ascents

    For me it's always been about the free drinks and loose women.
  18. Sport vs Trad

  19. Christmas ideas for climber

    Looking for last minute ideas for that flamboyant, Euro-styled bolt clipper on your list? Here's a little something that is certain to add panache to his favorite redpoint costume: the Bedazzler! The Bedazzler....it's back! That's right, with the Bedazzler, he can attach little rhinestones and gems to his lycra and Verve wear! Imagine what a splash he'll make! Imagine the look in his eyes when he opens this Christmas Morn'! He'll be so ecstatic, your climbing partner might just become.... your partner. I've included an image that gives you an idea of the possibilities.
  20. Name Changes Due

    Reflecting on the recent Alan Watts post, and having reviewed OW's intervention, one can only infer that Peter Puget's Rock Climbing Forum requires a new title: the Sport Climbing Forum. Otherwise, why shouldn't a FULL discussion of the impact of Alan's influence on rock climbing be allowed in a "rock climbing" forum? While Raindawg and I directed our comments squarely on topic, the original thread (even OW's edited version) includes personal attacks and speculation about the motivations of anybody who would suggest sport climbing hasn't been a positive development. Seriously, if discussion of the evils of sport climbing is going to be taboo (even in a thread where sport climbing's Godfather is profiled), how can we continue to call PP's forum "the rock climbing forum?" While we're at it, perhaps OW would consider changing his name to Cave Man, a title which would accuratley reflect how he caved in to the demands of those who demanded our silencing.
  21. Name Changes Due

    Now we're in an appropriate forum!
  22. Name Changes Due

    You're a pragmatic liberal, a fan of free and open discussion provided it doesn't make anybody think, provided it promotes the illusion that the current casual attitude toward bolting every sqaure inch of easily accessed top-ropable bluff is enthusiastically accepted by everybody who enjoys the freedom of the hills. All other discourse will be promptly demoted to "spray" where you're free to discuss pirates, bacon, MJ's murder and smoking pot in the Muir hut. "Look out! Here they come again! It's that bunch of guys who live in the old joke: it's YOU and two billion of your closest friends standing in shit up to your chins, chanting, 'DON'T MAKE A WAVE!'" Frank Zappa (naturally)
  23. Name Changes Due

    How about we call it "Grampa's Climbing Forum"? Then people can come learn how it was like to climb back in the good ole days? Back to one or two men's description of what climbing is? I've have said for a very long time that I think you guys represent a view point that others might share. But you don't seem acknowledge that just because you believe in something, that there is anyway anyone else might not share the same viewpoints? or the same spite? Do I need to warn you to the evils of megalomania? Have you taken the torch of climbing from someone more informed? Or are you placing the wrong emphasis what is really important? Offering an opinion on the history of and current state of bolting applications.... in a "rock climbing forum", in a thread linking an interview with a man who helped to promote this revolution.... is not spray. Virtually every response in opposition to my opinion consisted of insults, questioning of my climbing ability, speculation about my motives, charges of being afraid of new technology, character attacks, etc. Virtually the only attempt to discuss the appropriateness of rap bolting came in the form of an excuse that its impacts are less than some irrelevant road, ski resort, global warming report or whatever. That is spray. I think it is high time for some of you to admit that it isn't the message that you find annoying, nor its delivery. It is your own lack of ability to counter the message.
  24. Watts Talks

    Brown is the color of your shirt.
  25. Sport vs Trad

    Listen pal, YOU are participating in an activity in which YOU can control YOUR impacts. Pointing to a road and excusing your bullshit because a greater impact was made by somebody else is weaksauce and I think you know it. You're not free to steal a bicycle just because a guy across the street is stealing a car. Sport climbing has attracted large crowds which have trampled more fragile vegetation than previous generations of crack climbers and top-ropers ever did. Take away the bolts, there go the crowds. Take away the crowds, there go the social trails and erosion.