Mer

There should be an FA age adjustment index applied: 5.9 - 20yrs means it might be runout and feel more like 5.10. But 5.9 - 40yrs means it might be runout beyond sense and feel like 5.13.

Do Crimson chrysalis! can't remember if it's .8 or .9, but it's a fantastic route. Ginger cracks right nearby is an .8, not as popular, not quite as fine, but it won't be as crowded as Solar Slab and Olive Oil.

to capitalize on good weather windows. I only got one day in last weekend, when there was rock and ice to be got; it simply won't do. 5.2 to 5.11 as long as we're climbing something. thanks

If you happen to be female, there is another issue here. Too often boyfriend equals ropegun. It’s too easy to start thinking “oh, if he can’t lead it , I sure won’t be able to.” And there are not many guys who are willing to say “it scares the hell out of me, I might get hurt, why don’t you lead this one sweety-princess?” I got enough issues with the sharp end already, I don’t need these extra ones.

If someone who is familiar with the correct access route is heading up there, they should grab a role of flagging tape and mark the trail. It's easy on the way in (just keep out of the areas where the signs say Keep Out) but it's possible to find yourself on the wrong trail when you're walking out. Nice little climb too.

On a scale of difficulty: easy being opening a bottle of champgne, difficult being re-soling climbing shoes, where does the re-glue process fit? Any tips? Pitfalls to avoid? Handy tools? This will be a complete glue removal and re-application not just a touch up. Abundant thanks.

Hey, I got to Skaha this weekend. Climbed slo-pitch on the prow. A multi pitch trad route and no crowds, didn't feel like Skaha at all. Then we went to an overhanging clip-fest where everyone was hanging, spraying and lounging, and it felt very much like Skaha after all. Both me and my partner forgot our guidebooks, so if we were rifling through yours while you were climbing, thanks.

Aw, honey when it widens to arm-bar size just turn around and layback the edge.

So what makes them prone to pulling out? Little threads, not enough threads?

I'll happily buy the new guide. Although I prefer the tone of the old books--better sense of history, classic route descriptions--the detachable page "feature" is maddening. No one actually owns these books, they own a ziplock full of loose pages. As for the mountains, wretched things, horrible, best to just stay away.

It's the only way I can do the move Even if the style police make a laybacking deduction, I should get a bonus point for having placed the massive retro hex, threaded with the vintage 2 lb cable.

Spent Sat messing around at the local craglet.

"Take me!"

Siltarp--just haven't got in the habit of packing it. and I used up the seam sealer on something else. 10 cm ice screw. --carried it, haven't had to place it yet. 12 in. Bundt pan--It came in a set. I've used the cookie sheet and the muffin tin, but I've never made a bundt cake.

ban's off, this from the forestry site: "British Columbians should exercise extreme caution and only venture into the backcountry if absolutely necessary."

The updated restrictions show revelstoke as outside the ban--it's just as wet and cool here, so the restriction is a bit arbitrary. I do respect climbing closures, but this just seems like a line on a map and well, umm, I really want to climb.

But, my stealthy plan is to leave the car and mountain bike in. I'll wear moss-coloured clothing and just do some silent, solo top-roping. I won't smoke, drill or trundle anything--actually this doesn't sound like much fun at all. Maybe I'll just drive to Begbie

I'm in the interior of the province we had some rain over the past two days, so it will have made the fire situation better, but things are still dry and still burning. Helicopters with buckets are still flying overhead. The ban is lifted in the Columbia region (Revelstoke) but not the Okanagan/Shuswap. But damn, it's been two weeks without access to the crags or the trails. I'm going to break down and stealth into the local rock this weekend.--you can't obey all the rules all the time and forbidden rock is so tempting

Eww, I hate it when I encounter piles of dripping sarcasm. That stuff is so hard to clean off your shoes.

So it was just the usual couple of days at the office in Canada then?

I was up on a peak outside Revelstoke this weekend. Though the province is not actually on fire, it is smouldering a bit. I could see seven individual fires burning, all of them small enough to be left burning while they deal with the bigger ones. Shame about the crags outside Kelowna. The boulder fields were particularly unique. I wonder what that intense heat does to the hardware?

Dru's right, I'm going to sell my Rages and climb with a giant squid in each hand. Might have to change my leashes though.

Ah excellent, the Why Climb question. Because it makes everything else recede for a while. Because when you're climbing you're not fretting about your career, love-life, mortgage, car repairs, or the zillion other fretful things that might occupy your head. Life is reduced to the tiny piece of metal that you have to put into the tiny crack or getting your foot up and onto that incut. Because it's blissfully simple to have your mind concentrated one thing. Also interesting places, people, and good beer afterward, but mostly it's about paying very close attention to one thing.

I find the Rages start to feel heavy after a day of swinging, because they're so weighty at the head. And I've taken them along on glacier, but never really had to plunge them. I think the pinky platform would make it difficult. You might compare the size of the platform on the Alp Wing to the one on the Rage. Has anyone filed the pinky thing on the Rages? I keep thinking I might get around to doing that.

Mmmm, sounds good, but I'm still here at the office so I'm going to have to improvise with some of these ingredients. I'll have to make do with green tea and copier fluid while I play drum solos on the desk with my pens. Salut!