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I saw masses of cloven hooved mammals this weekend. White tail and deer and Elk, while driving Settlers road on the way back from gibralter wall (still in good shape though getting fried where the sun hits it.) Climbed at Cedared Creek too, down by Spillamacheen (it's better and bigger than the guidebook suggests, and it's in a steep gully so the ice is staying blue and fat even through warm temps.) Raining heavily in Golden where we stopped at the Trapper for some roast ungulate, fries and Too foggy to see anything across the river, but it's pretty warm for the east side of the Selkeirks in Feb.

Thanks for the info. Shame about Guinness. I'll let you know what I find out there this weekend.

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Au contraire, mon frere: It would be a run-on (comma splice) if you joined the independent clauses with a comma without using a co-ordinating conjunction, such as "and". I know all the big grammar words, la-la-lala.

Anyone have a look at the beer climbs (Field) recently? It hasn't snowed all week, maybe if the snow holds off until Sunday, it might be OK to head in there. Otherwise I'll keep driving down to Radium or over to Lk Louise Yeah, ice, yeah!

Ah, the hook I think I bit on some scruffy little piece of rock outside of McBride BC, I was thrashing away in my borrowed gear while someone on the ground was trying to explain ‘layback’. I’m thinking that fool does not know what he’s talking about, then click--the layback came together and up I went. Of course at first you don’t realize that the hook is in. It only begins to dawn when you get down off something and you’re bleeding massively but didn’t notice when it happened. Or you start looking at restaurant menus and figuring out the price of dinner in chocks and biners, but by then you're too far gone.

OK, I confess I have girl size hands, but my mixed master gloves are still cut foolishly wide, and that attached string just seems designed to get sucked into the rappel device. Mine are a few years old so maybe the design is better now. Usually I love MEC gear. Anyone else with little paws find something that works well in a small size?

If you have small hands the mixed master gloves are a terrible fit. The fingers are far too wide. I don't climb with them anymore, I got tired of the floppy-woppy, oven-mit feel and getting the thumbs caught in the biners. I bought some bright orange rubber gloves at a hunting/fishing store, cut out the fleece liners and use some wool gloves to line them instead. It's not a perfect solution, they're thrifty, dry, and I can operate stuff, but my hands still get cold.

Dr. Dru: I fear that contiguous exposure to detrital zircons has resulted in my developing terrible crustal extensions. Do you think this conditions can be medicated or will I need a laramide orogenectomy? I’d hate for this to develop into a plutonic complex. please advise.

Hey Dru Are these this year's pics? I haven't been out to Lillooet this season--it being so soggy and all, but these shots don't look so bad. ...Ah the Quarks in action, how I covet them...

Sorry, I don't have any information for you, just a request that you post back here with the conditions or a report. Thanks--enjoy your weekend--

...and upon this rock I will build My church" (Matthew 16:18) I just google searched "Jesus said rock" for a biblical quote to post on Spray. The lightning bolt has not hit me yet.

I see the light now, a simple system is a better system. It's a tiny guide for a backwoods crag and few people go there anyway. We just like seeing our names in print. Actually once we direct you to the base of a route, this description would probably cover more than half the lines: Route 7, less than 50m, 5.9 (+ or -) Start at the bottom and proceed to the top, placing pro or clipping bolts along the way.

Now the sporto climbers are going to get all huffy and remind you that it's actually called a STICKCLIP.

Perhaps there's room in this post for a little PSA about the Canadian Avalanche Association, one of the things that helps mitigate risk when in the BC mountains. At the start of this winter the CAA didn't have the funds to put out a regular conditions bulletin for the season. They were actively raising money so the service could continue. (They did manage to raise it through donations --including a big one from MEC.) The shortage is due to the BC provincial government cutting all funding to the CAA. Here's a press release from the CAA website: Canadian Avalanche Association Stan Hagen is the Minister of Sustainable Resource Management in BC. Feel like sending him an email while you're on line? stan.hagen.mla@leg.bc.ca Tell him things like the avi bulletin are important when you're deciding where to spend your tourist dollars.

A moot point if we’re talking about Skaha grades, where a 10b is likely to be a 5.9 anyway . It is the Skaha and Red Rocks guide books where I’ve seen it used and started to assume it was a standard. I understand it’s a subtle distinction and likely to be missed or misunderstood, but I like the tradition of not giving too much away in the route description. It’s hard ten my boy, grab the rack and go. Instead of it’s 5.10c/d pull on the grey sloper just left on the indent then step up right on the micro blah blah blah…

You should have waited until the 30'th to post this question, 03-1-30. lives drown in words evil

Updating our local rock guidlet. I’d like to use notation that reserves plus and minus for natural lines, ie 5.10+ and uses a,b,c,d for fixed or mixed routes, ie 5.10c. I’ve seen this convention used in several guides, but I’ve also seen it confuse people. Keeping the distinction gives you info about the nature of the pro but gives you less info about the difficulty of the climb. What do you think, is this a useful distinction, or the ratings equivalent of a who/whom quibble?

Good, this all makes sense. Carry an assortment, make the best of what's available. I just didn't want thoughts of dubious budget pro to intrude while I was climbing above it. But stubbies have their place, of course they do. (except a 10 cm express screw, that's just goofy.)

I noticed that my local climbing store was selling off their 10 cm ice screws and then I heard that MEC was doing the same with the 10 and 13 cm. It makes me wonder why. I would have thought that if the choices were: nothing, a tied-off screw, a stubby, I’d be happy to choose the stubby. But maybe they’re really the equivalent of nothing. Anyone ever seen any data or have a genuine experience with the smallest sizes? Just to clarify, this is an actual query about stubby ice screws, although I see that “how small is too small to bother with?” is probably a ridiculous question to post to this list. thanks anyway

Does anyone know why certain products are only available for shipping in Canada--the ones made by MEC. Is it the co-op structure or the manufacturing setup that breaks some pesky trading rule with y'all?

Gilles is accustomed to waiting while his partner flails and hacks! You guys think the ice will last for another couple of weeks in Lilooet?

I'm inspired by Bronco's winter training Hiku. 'Midst all the shit talk there appears some poems. I'm inspired enough to compose the following: Fingers rattle keyshands stop hurriedly to touch wound from slivered ice.

Hmm, I guess Dru and the Captain aren't around at the moment. So here you go: CASBC Scroll way deep down on the page for the current stuff.