Bronco

are you attempting it in a day? what is your proposed schedule? What is the climb graded? Where the hell is Mt. Challenger?

steelhead: I went through this a few months ago and one thing you may want to decide on is if you want a summit type pack and it has suspension, will it fit in your big ass pack? This was the reason (and $150) why I went with last years BD Ice Pack (for $127)over the NOZONE. Otherwise the nozone is superior to any other pack in every way(IMO).

Good Man! I was on the South side last weekend and can tell you with a forecast for partly cloudy skys we had thunder, lightning, snow, ice pellets and the best was the HIGH WIND. It was great! Make sure you take the extra time to tie down your tent/fly. We burried our treking poles as dead men and one was bent when we dug it out! I think I have heard camp schurman (sp?) is even windier than Muir - have fun, if the weather turns on you, just hang out and enjoy it.

I am very interested in your Black Prophets. please e-mail me at: rpmcousa@aol.com

Agreed Cavemon. Anybody else think it is humorous that Mr. Gauthier is still "On Belay" while all of us kung foo keyboard masters are "Rope Lead" studs.

Hey Titsmack, did you carry pickets when you did Rainer "doggie style" or just rely on ice axes for pulling out of the crevase?

Thanks ScottP! By the way, my previous post was supposed to be directed at AlpineK regarding the fixed ropes and porters. Your coinsideration is appreciated.

"The discipline of mountain climbing originated in the French Alps, so the word "alpinism" derives from the French root "alp". Alpine style is mountain climbing reduced to it's purest essence, and extreme alpinism takes us to the cutting edge of that style. Alpine style means attempting to climb mountians on the most equitable footing possible, neither applying excessive technology to overcome deficits in skill or courage nor using permenently damaging tactics, and adhering to this ethos from begining to end. It means being equal to the challenge imposed by the natural state of the mountain." Exerpt from the introduction to "Extreme Alpinism", by Mr. Mark Twight. I don't endorse off subject replys, especially to my own topic but, I just finished reading the book for the second time and it was fresh on my mind. It seems to me that Mr. Twight would agree that the campers at Muir are not climbing "alpine style" according to the definition he gives. IMO They don't seem to be climbing expedition style either, just safe and sane.

Scott: Actually, there are currently fixed lines on the Disapointment Cleaver, and I can verify porter work being done to camp muir about 3 weeks ago. I really dont care about the definition of "alpine" and I appologize for the confusion. I simply meant climbing to the summit with only climbing gear, water and food, no tent, no sleeping bag, no pad, only a sumit pack. Thanks for the 2 out of 13 replys pertaining to the question!!!

Peter Pumpkin eater: Yes, $15.00 per attempt or $25.00 for the year to go overnight above a certain elevation. It costs another $15.00 to get into the park - although if you get in early or late enought the gate may not be manned.

The "single push" would be as follows: Leave Paradise late evening say 8 pm friday only in excellent weather, Stop at camp muir between 12 and 1am saturday morning only long enough to refil water bottles then move on to the upper mountian, attempting to summit by 5 am and decending to Paradise by noon. No bivy gear, if weather or route or health problems come up, you go down. My Main concern is not acclimating and causing health complications. PS thanks for your input Dur.

wore these on Mt. Rainier this weekend. Pro- excellent quality optics, never fogged up, comfortable and light. Several compliments from other climbers. Con- virtually no periphial vision. Trying to stay in the boot track required tipping my head straight down and placing alot of strain on my neck. Summary, Get something else, I am.

Has anyone attempted Mt. Rainier in a single push? What Route? Any Suggestions? This has worked on some other long routes for me but havent had the balls to try it on the Big R.

Camp Muir 6/8 - 6/9 Hiked to camp muir Friday intending to make a summit attmpt about midnight or 1am Saturday Morning. Melted snow, prepped the ropes, packs, organized all climbing gear and set up the stove in the vest. for quick coffee in the AM. Thanks to the thunder, lighning, flapping tent, pelting ice pellets and snow, we didnt have to bother opening the door to check condidtions at midnight We could hear other campers abandoning thier tents and scrambleing for the public shelter through the night. Although the thunderstorm went away a couple hours later, the 0 visibility did not break until 10:30am and the wind persisted. Opened the door to the vestubele at 6am to make some coffee to find the enitre area filled with spindrift and stove burried. We dicided to hang out and no hurry as we had Sunday also. We finally accepted our fate and headed down to Paradise through the clouds and wind around noon. We considered staying at Muir until Sunday, but no good reason in the forecast for tormenting my tentmates any longer than necesary. Plan to hit it again in 2 weeks. We are considering the single push starting from Paradise Friday evening to top out Saturday morning (alpine style). Anyone want to offer advice or route suggestions feel free. Bronco

I purchased some Julbo Sherpa Glacier Glasses last year off of Mountainzone.com's auction for less than $10. I have worn them alot but the last 2 times on Mt. Baker and again on Mt. Rainier, the sun was completley unobstructed and very bright. The following day I had what felt like flashburn, sand in my eyes and eye fatige in general. The lenses seem pretty adequatly tinted (dark enough) for the intended purpose, the side shields are smaller than normal but work ok. Any advice? Is it a problem with my glasses or eyes? Climbing again friday, HELP Bronco

Maybe it is just you Dwayner.......

That is none other than ole' Captain Cave Man. BTW if you cut/tear your sock into pieces, you get a few more wipes, several of my old huntin buddies have pairs of socks without the top 6". That way you still have socks to wear and satisfy the other project. Bronco

June 3, 1950 Maruice Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first men to summit an 8,000+ meter mountain, Annapurna. Raise a cheap glass of nasty red table wine in honor of the bad ass Frenchmen. (coincedentally, June 3, is my daughter Anna's birthday) pretty cool!

how long? bent or straight?

Even I know that one - His daugther "George" had drug problems that the flamer Miles helped her recover from.

How are snow conditions on the ledge and at the chute?

Greedy corporate profits are probably not to blame as much as the perceived increase in safty with advanced technology of the ubiquitous cel-phone, avalanche beacon, carbon fiber thingybobbers, ultra lite weight everything and so on. With all of the new doohickys on the market, people feel more confident about getting out there and getting back home safly which may not be the case. Of course this theory is sold by the gear corportations to justify your purchase so, maybe they are behind it! OOOOOOHHHH a conspiracy! Trip report on this subject: I was the 3rd person out of the Paradise Parking lot on Sunday hiking to camp muir and quickly passed the 2 dudes in front of me. From then on, I had the mountian seemingly to myself with the exception of the occasional decending party, until I reached Muir and turned around to decend. There must have been 200-300 other people on the trail heading up, but almost everyone had a great attitude and was enjoying themselves. I don't mind sharing the awesome mountains or crags - they belong to everyone equally regardless of how long you have been using them. My $.05 on the subject. PS: I don't think this problem is isolated to the Alpine Lakes region (weak joke).

howdy gaper: Me & my wife attempted Adams late May of 2000 and slogged all day (10 hours)of day 1 to only reach 8000' - the hike from the truck to the Cold Springs TH was 7 MILES. Point is - you should plan on 2 days this time of year, if it goes in a day great, but don't screw your trip by planning on it. On the other hand in mid September we made it truck to summit to truck in under 12 hours. Bring your ski poles - most of the terrain is too low angle for your ice axe to be much help, but, you will need it also. have fun - the burgers at the little place next to the Cheveron station in Trout Lake are great. Which reminds me, the ranger station is actually 1 mile past the cheveron station - stay to the left at the Y to the rangers or go right to the mountain. We did get checked for climbing permits on the climb in may but not september. I better get back to work

This link is to an article from the everett herald about a climbers experience durring the quake http://www.heraldnet.com/stories/01/3/7/13523164.CFM

I impulsivley purchased a full set of BD Hexes off of the REI outlet website that are not wired. I plan to tie them with a double fish knot using some spectra cord and my question is: How long (distance between the hex and clip in point) do you want to tie them? Any other advice is appreciated.