Bronco

Deeeeeeeep Man!

I wish I had seen that last one last week. The vent screens are now melted out of my Walrus' vestublule. I generally don't run the stove inside anything but, it was pretty nasty outside. Oh well, it was exciting for sure and got everybody moving quick!

ANOTHER VOTE FOR BEEEEER!!!!

I have also heard the generalization on caffine, but,have also read a study that you only loose half a cup of coffe due to the diauetic effect so you do come out on the PLUS side of staying hydrated, just not as efficent as water in that regard. I think consuming it in moderation is the key. I don't want to climb with any of my buddies who haven't had thier cup o' joe, they are crankey!!!

I have tried and liked Almond butter smeared on a bagel, it is high in fat for instant energy and slides right down your throat. Cost around $.25 per bagel and you get around 400 calories if you put enough Almond Butter on.

The recovery drink (endurox r4) I use on long climbs has ciwujia in it which has (aparantly) been succefully used by some high altitude climbers. The new generation of recovery drinks are 100 times better than the old gatoraide type stuff. Anyway, I generally have not had bad side effects from altitude, I drink lotsa water. Coffee before, coffee beans durring and a brew after also helps with the good vibes.

I had hoped to climb via the Gib Ledges but, the climbing ranger on duty last Friday Morning said conditions were WI, exposed rock and with the recent wind probably patches of spindrift over the ice to clog your crampons, so it is basically out. The DC is probably the likely cantidate as no one in my party has done the Finger. I think we will leave the pickets, take one extra ice axe to back up an ice axe anchor in the event of a crevase fall. Tennis shoes and poles to muir sounds like a good suggestion also. Is the ginko belober' the same stuff Capt. Cavemon is pushing?

are you attempting it in a day? what is your proposed schedule? What is the climb graded? Where the hell is Mt. Challenger?

steelhead: I went through this a few months ago and one thing you may want to decide on is if you want a summit type pack and it has suspension, will it fit in your big ass pack? This was the reason (and $150) why I went with last years BD Ice Pack (for $127)over the NOZONE. Otherwise the nozone is superior to any other pack in every way(IMO).

Good Man! I was on the South side last weekend and can tell you with a forecast for partly cloudy skys we had thunder, lightning, snow, ice pellets and the best was the HIGH WIND. It was great! Make sure you take the extra time to tie down your tent/fly. We burried our treking poles as dead men and one was bent when we dug it out! I think I have heard camp schurman (sp?) is even windier than Muir - have fun, if the weather turns on you, just hang out and enjoy it.

I am very interested in your Black Prophets. please e-mail me at: rpmcousa@aol.com

Agreed Cavemon. Anybody else think it is humorous that Mr. Gauthier is still "On Belay" while all of us kung foo keyboard masters are "Rope Lead" studs.

Hey Titsmack, did you carry pickets when you did Rainer "doggie style" or just rely on ice axes for pulling out of the crevase?

Thanks ScottP! By the way, my previous post was supposed to be directed at AlpineK regarding the fixed ropes and porters. Your coinsideration is appreciated.

"The discipline of mountain climbing originated in the French Alps, so the word "alpinism" derives from the French root "alp". Alpine style is mountain climbing reduced to it's purest essence, and extreme alpinism takes us to the cutting edge of that style. Alpine style means attempting to climb mountians on the most equitable footing possible, neither applying excessive technology to overcome deficits in skill or courage nor using permenently damaging tactics, and adhering to this ethos from begining to end. It means being equal to the challenge imposed by the natural state of the mountain." Exerpt from the introduction to "Extreme Alpinism", by Mr. Mark Twight. I don't endorse off subject replys, especially to my own topic but, I just finished reading the book for the second time and it was fresh on my mind. It seems to me that Mr. Twight would agree that the campers at Muir are not climbing "alpine style" according to the definition he gives. IMO They don't seem to be climbing expedition style either, just safe and sane.

Scott: Actually, there are currently fixed lines on the Disapointment Cleaver, and I can verify porter work being done to camp muir about 3 weeks ago. I really dont care about the definition of "alpine" and I appologize for the confusion. I simply meant climbing to the summit with only climbing gear, water and food, no tent, no sleeping bag, no pad, only a sumit pack. Thanks for the 2 out of 13 replys pertaining to the question!!!

Peter Pumpkin eater: Yes, $15.00 per attempt or $25.00 for the year to go overnight above a certain elevation. It costs another $15.00 to get into the park - although if you get in early or late enought the gate may not be manned.

The "single push" would be as follows: Leave Paradise late evening say 8 pm friday only in excellent weather, Stop at camp muir between 12 and 1am saturday morning only long enough to refil water bottles then move on to the upper mountian, attempting to summit by 5 am and decending to Paradise by noon. No bivy gear, if weather or route or health problems come up, you go down. My Main concern is not acclimating and causing health complications. PS thanks for your input Dur.

wore these on Mt. Rainier this weekend. Pro- excellent quality optics, never fogged up, comfortable and light. Several compliments from other climbers. Con- virtually no periphial vision. Trying to stay in the boot track required tipping my head straight down and placing alot of strain on my neck. Summary, Get something else, I am.

Has anyone attempted Mt. Rainier in a single push? What Route? Any Suggestions? This has worked on some other long routes for me but havent had the balls to try it on the Big R.

Camp Muir 6/8 - 6/9 Hiked to camp muir Friday intending to make a summit attmpt about midnight or 1am Saturday Morning. Melted snow, prepped the ropes, packs, organized all climbing gear and set up the stove in the vest. for quick coffee in the AM. Thanks to the thunder, lighning, flapping tent, pelting ice pellets and snow, we didnt have to bother opening the door to check condidtions at midnight We could hear other campers abandoning thier tents and scrambleing for the public shelter through the night. Although the thunderstorm went away a couple hours later, the 0 visibility did not break until 10:30am and the wind persisted. Opened the door to the vestubele at 6am to make some coffee to find the enitre area filled with spindrift and stove burried. We dicided to hang out and no hurry as we had Sunday also. We finally accepted our fate and headed down to Paradise through the clouds and wind around noon. We considered staying at Muir until Sunday, but no good reason in the forecast for tormenting my tentmates any longer than necesary. Plan to hit it again in 2 weeks. We are considering the single push starting from Paradise Friday evening to top out Saturday morning (alpine style). Anyone want to offer advice or route suggestions feel free. Bronco

I purchased some Julbo Sherpa Glacier Glasses last year off of Mountainzone.com's auction for less than $10. I have worn them alot but the last 2 times on Mt. Baker and again on Mt. Rainier, the sun was completley unobstructed and very bright. The following day I had what felt like flashburn, sand in my eyes and eye fatige in general. The lenses seem pretty adequatly tinted (dark enough) for the intended purpose, the side shields are smaller than normal but work ok. Any advice? Is it a problem with my glasses or eyes? Climbing again friday, HELP Bronco

Maybe it is just you Dwayner.......

That is none other than ole' Captain Cave Man. BTW if you cut/tear your sock into pieces, you get a few more wipes, several of my old huntin buddies have pairs of socks without the top 6". That way you still have socks to wear and satisfy the other project. Bronco

June 3, 1950 Maruice Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first men to summit an 8,000+ meter mountain, Annapurna. Raise a cheap glass of nasty red table wine in honor of the bad ass Frenchmen. (coincedentally, June 3, is my daughter Anna's birthday) pretty cool!