Bronco

Me and 2 gumbys (that makes 3) attempted the Summit via the heliotrope approach on the weekend of May 5/6. Drove a monster 4x4 (with chains) to within 1.5 miles of TH. It was melting fast so you are probably right about currently less than 1 mile. Snowshoes or ski's are advised. We and several other parties were forced to camp at the Hogsback (6000')due to a small storm that blew through on Saturday afternoon. We initailly planned to camp at the black buttes. The wind blew all night seemingly loading the south western facing slopes so we decided we would not go for the summit Sunday and sleep in. Sunday morning we climed to the Black Buttes with easy route finding, most crevases were still covered. We turned back at 9000' due to warm temps, a lot of fresh snow and no sunscreen. One party returned to the Hogsback prior to us leaving and reported the conditions at the Roman wall as thigh deep fresh and conditions were "Ass". They had turned back reinforcing our decision not to push it. A large group from Canada and several skiers were going for it (the summit) but none caught us decending so no report above 9000'.

Aidan: check out this conditions report http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm what route did you decide on?

Don't leave out N.W.A. - the original hard core rappers they rock the houuuuuuuuse. Great pre climb motivator and really impresses the chicks. Bronco

Captain, your "music" sounds like a gear list. Try some Hank Williams, Hank Williams Jr., Willie Nelson, Leonard Skinyrd, and Waylun Jennings. If you need any samples, let me know. Bronco

This is what I call the "Deliverance" training (Que the banjos) It will make you a mountain hardman if it does not injure you first. Find a muddy, stinky swamp that is about knee to thigh deep pick up a 20 - 30lb rock and stagger through the swamp,(carrying the rock) until you are ready to drop and then - yep, do it somemore. Try for an hour with few short breaks. I wouldent try to do this more than once a week, it really stresses your back (and you would smell like swamp). But,it simulates the hunched over hiking through cascade crud you will probably experience near the summit and the smell coming from the inside of your jacket will be similar to the gases in the swamp. In case you are wondering, yes, I actually did this prior to climbing Rainier last year although I was trying to build a bridge through my swamp. It is a little funner than running hills or stairmaster. If people ask what you are doing (they will), tell them you are building a bridge, or look them right in the eye and say, "you got a purty mouth, boy". HOPEFULLY, they will leave you alone. On the hill, drink lots of water, eat (even though you may not want to) rest step and pressure breath. If you do these things, you will be draggin your rope team up into the summit crater. Bronco

I planned the same thing on 4/7, stopped in Ashford and rented snowshoes ($10) which was a good idea. The snow was thigh deep and soft as a ..... well, you fill in the blank. We only made it to somewhere around Panorama Point's elevation and turned around due to very poor visability and no trail to follow. Have fun, hope the weathers good.

My understanding of a slack line is simply a rope strung horizontally between 2 anchors just high enough for travel (or standing still)without touching the ground. Same thing as a circus tight rope, only much lower. I dont have much slack in mine (I think the term slack line is refering to its use durring "slack time", waiting for conditions to stabilize in camp, etc.) Anyway here is how I strung mine- 1. tie one end to tree #1 with a bowline 2. about 2'-3' short of tree #2 tie an overhand knot leaving a 6" loop 3. pass the end of the rope around tree #2 4. put the end of the rope through the overhand loop 5. pull back towards tree # 2 and secure with another overhand knot. I used some 5/8" braided nylon rope I had from safty rope used for roofing. You dont want to use good rope, the first overhand knot may be permenant after a couple of uses. There seems to be no right or wrong way to do it, as long as it is challengeing your balance.

Are slack lines an effective means of training or just for fun?

Are slack lines an effective means of training or just for fun?

Hi guys, I just wanted to take the opportunity to thank you for all of your good advice to date, you guys are appreciated. I also wanted to make a plea for some help on advancing my skills. I know every experienced climber at some point had to work with someone more advanced to sharpen your skills and get to where you are. The point is, I am fairly new and would like to develop some rock climbing skills (in and effort to become a well rounded climber), and hope to hook up with some experienced climbers who dont mind bringing an newbie once in a while,(emphasize once in a while, I have a wife and child among other comitments). I work in Everett (self employed) live in Monroe, I have been climbing low angle ice and snow (Rainier and Adams), some indoor (can do a 5.10 with no points for style), some bouldering, a little outdoor top roped, I think I understand the basics of belaying, I have my own gear, if I dont have something I will get it. I am anxious to learn, nothing is below me, I have no feelings (you can yell at me all you want), I have a 4x4, am fit as a fiddle (can run 8 hilly miles in under an hour), I will drive you to the crags and cary your gear and lunch, above all, I love to be in the mountains, (don't we all). What I am hoping is pretty simple,anybody can contact me to say, "hey - I'm headed to Index (or wherever) and I need a dirtbag belayer." I know it sounds pretty pathetic, but, you can e-mail me at rpmcousa@aol.com or reply on the thread. Any info or offers are appreciated. I also asume there are others out there who may be in my boots and would appreciate your posts. Ryan

I saw him interviewed on the Today show a couple of weeks ago and immediatly thought "here is a guy living/climbing to his full potential". GO ERIC!

Dru, The thread is related to an inquiry into if anyone was interested in hauling loads to camp muir for fun or money for a dude and his brother who were planning to climb Rainier in April. When SOMEONE responed in the positive, they all were scolded for being "unethical". It was another thread gone to hell or having nothing to do with the original post. So I beilieve this thread was an attempt to seperate the two issues. Ryan

Mr. Wdkingmnan: As a result of the overwhelming response to my new corporation, Unethical Porters.com I went IPO yesterday netting the $50 I was hoping to get from you to carry a load for you or your brother. This will approximatly cover my entry pass and climbers pass for the next year at Mt. Rainier. I am now secretly planning the bankrupcy of the corporation and will not be available to "join the fun" or porter gear for you and your brother on April 22 throught the 27th. Word to your mother- Insincerly, Bronco cc: Kashmier

Thanks guys goooood info. One potential hang up with the Nozone I noticed while trying another one on - nowhere to stow pickets and wands (or skis?) I am overlooking something pretty obvious arent I? HELP ME Bronco

Dru: Since it is apparent you are both the Arcteryx and BC guru, do you have any suggestions on where to shop in Vancouver? Thanks for any help. Ryan

I also have wide feet (E) and am breaking in some Scarpa Matterhorns. I have worn them on 2 one day climb/scramles on mixed terrain and am very happy with them. I also took the liberty of checking the Scapra website and found the Freney and Matterhorn are made useing a different last. So they would probably fit different. Ryan

I guess that would make me unethical, unknowledgeable, and insincere? yep, that about sums it up. Good climbin' yerself. So how much money are we talking about?

How much money?

My bad for listening to the "counter help". Thanks for the info Dru. it probably saved me a few bucks. There really dont seem to be any other packs designed as "thoughtfully" with the aplpine and ice climber in mind. But, you could almost buy 2 of the BD ice packs for one Nozone. A quandry for sure. Bronco

Coincedentally, I put on a Nozone and also a Lowe alpine Attack - it wasen't even close. The Nozone was much nicer and if you want tool tubes, Arcterex sells a nifty combo crampon pocket with tool tubes that strap on the back of the pack. Very nice pack and the price shows it. I am going to try a couple others, but the Nozone is definitely the front runner. I currently use a Lowe Alpine crossbow 90+15 which is a great load hauler but might as well be an external on a bush wack.

I am also searching for an Alpine pack and have a couple of questions. How important are ice tool tubes as opposed to ice axe loops? I have noticed my tool is not totaly secure in the loops and I almost lost it last weekend bushwacking. How important is the removable Biv Pad? It seems like a good idea but how useful is it? My thinking here is to get a light-wieght pack and just bring my own pad or lay on the pack itself in a unplanned biv. Ryan

There is some info on the road & trailhead at the Mt. Baker climbing reports road conditions web page, http://209.64.181.208/advscripts/mbs_trl_rpt.asp?w=mbrd If you go before April 7, please post the conditions (I am planning a trip) Thanks-

Then there is the theory that you shouldn't take anything from a "Chat Room" too seriously - especially from folks who's idea of a good time is rock climbing durring an earthquake. A climb on Denali sounds fab to me, but have some other comittments.

Does anyone know if the 2 injured climbers near Granite Falls (on Saturday) in the Robe Valley are doin' ok?

Alptm: I just noticed the Lowe Netherworld at the REIoutlet.com for $137.99.