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Alasdair

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Everything posted by Alasdair

  1. The creek crossing is not an issue right now. Yes the bridge is gone. Yes there is a big log just down stream. You can see it from where the old bridge used to be. It is not even a 5 minute detour. That is my photo on the AAI blog and it was shot two weeks ago. I was back on Monday and it still looks the same.
  2. http://www.guideschoice.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=280 good price on liners
  3. Its closed for most of the season due to washout.
  4. Anyone want to get out to index tomorrow? PM me if you do.
  5. no its not
  6. Alasdair

    Crash

    ONe more reason that I will never live in New York. Over rated dump if you ask me.
  7. Alasdair

    Crash

    I ended up doing quite well from the whole incident, but I was also very patient. The key to insurance companies is they want to get the claim off their desk and closed as quickly as possible. The longer you string it out and ask for too much the more desperate they are to close the case. Dont threaten them with a lawyer because then they wont bargan at all. I simply told them the dollar amount I wanted. I determined this by calculating every hour I missed climbing and multiplied it by my hourly salary from work at the time. I gave them this figure in addition to lost time from work(which is never a problem to get money for). I wrote them a letter telling them that my free time was more important to me than missed work. They informed me this was too much money so I told them to call me back when they have a check for what I asked. To make a long story short, after 1.5 years of gradually increasing offers and me hanging up on them they finally called one day and offered me $100 less than what I asked for. I had a check later that afternoon. I did tell them at some point if there is one thing I hate more than insurance agents it is personal injury attorneys, but if I had to use one I would.
  8. Alasdair

    Crash

    Make sure he pays for a full tune up of your bike, and at least a doctors visit. Contact his insurance company and let them know about the accident. When you speak to the insurance company they will try to get you to admit 5% fault or some bullshit like that. DONT!!!! Make sure you tell them while they are recording the conversation that he was 100% at fault. This is important. I have been hit by a car and did not fair as well as you and learned a lot of lessons from it. More than anything else it is very important you contact his insurance company so it is on his record. They record everything whether a claim was made or not. If he does it again he might be taking the bus for a while.
  9. I am not sure where you heard this from, but cant see any way short of a life threatening emergency where this type of thing would have happened with any guide I have worked with at AAI. Not only are AAI guides trained in leave no trace principles, but they truly believe in it, and use it even on personal trips. Guides who work on Denali understand the climbers impacts on the mountain, and simply put, would not do this type of thing. In addition this type of activity is a very good way to loose a guiding permit. No guide who ever wants to guide again is going to risk their career doing this. I hate to call bullshit, but on this one I have to. I just dont believe this type of thing happened, with AAI or for that matter any other guide service. It is just not worth saving a few pounds if you might loose your permit.
  10. I will be in Red Rocks from the 12th to the 23rd at least. I will be camping in the campground. I cant make any solid plans for partners right now, but come find me and I am sure I will have some free days. I drive a green ford Ranger with a white cap on the back and Washington plates. Hope we can hook up. Anyone else going to be in Red Rocks during this time needing a partner let me know. Just come find my truck in the evenings. Alasdair
  11. Might want to take a look at the road conditions first. The baker lake road is washed out at chadwick creek and will not be fixed for quite a while. It is close to shannon creek campground. I think this means you won't be doing shucksan.
  12. No not in at least a year, probably more like 3. Dont plan to either. Truth is this is my first visit to spray in at least a couple of months.
  13. Hey Sheaf, Where the fuck did you come from? Do you even climb? So far all your posts are very fox news. Thank you for your right wing bullshit now please fuck off. Sheafs posts so far... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=dosearch&Forum=All_Forums&Name=13325&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&&fromsearch=1&fromprof=1
  14. Does anyone else find the snow deposition in this photo interesting? First off, two weeks ago there was very little snow on Dragontail at all. Now there looks to be a lot more snow, however it is only on the bottom half of the peak. So did you guys get close enough to take a good look? From this pic it looks like the lower half of the peak is covered in rime ice. Either that or new snow was all blown off the upper part of the mountain. I find this less likely because I would expect less snow closer to colchuck col. Anyway. I would not pack all my stuff and run up to do ice lines on Dragontail anytime soon, because they were not there as of two weeks ago, and I dont think that has changed. I was really pretty stunned at how little snow is on the N face route this year. There is usually a large snow field that you can traverse from the top of the first coulor to the middle of the third with no rock at all. This year it is barely there.
  15. Yep you can. In the photo posted above the ice pitches if formed would be directly below the white streak that is the second couloir.
  16. Hey does anyone know if Tom Tom still posts here? Or have an email for him? I need to talk to him. Please PM me.
  17. What makes you so sure he was going for a route in the guidebook?
  18. For the record... I would never climb in an area closed for birds. Mostly because I agree with bird closures.
  19. One reason to close the area is to protect us from being total dumb shits. It is not unheard of for birds of prey to protect their nests themselves. Also there are a hell of a lot of people who have no idea where nests are since they are often very hard to spot. Pulling over a ledge and finding a peregrine nest would not be good.
  20. I agree, but i am definatly not bitter about perergine nesting closures. THey are a good thing, and they are not going to change no matter how much you bitch about it. Live with it and enjoy plenty of other climbing areas that are open. Now if the forest circus does as is being proposed in this thread then just ignore the rules, because they dont have enough funding to enforce it anyway.
  21. The perigrine clearly does not have the same problem or I would not have seen one take on a flicker in my neighbors yard last week on Phinny Ridge. Peregrines are becoming quite common.
  22. You should buy a new one. It is one of those things you should not take a chance with.
  23. AAI has some www.mtnguide.com Feb 16 - Feb 18, 2007 Feb 23 - Feb 25, 2007 Mar 9 - Mar 11, 2007 Mar 23 - Mar 25, 2007
  24. We were staying at rampart creek hostel. We never saw any signs, or anything else about bombing.
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