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About jtljohnson

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    Seattle, WA, USA
  1. Boots for rainier/Hood and beyond

    I wouldn't recommend leather boots for the volcanoes. Your feet will be soaked. Save the leather's for alpine rock routes or mixed stuff. I would recommend lowa civetta's because of their low profile weight and flex. Use VB socks and your boots will be dry as a bone.
  2. Another Rainier Rescue

    Mike G. Thanks for your post. Hindsight being what it is you are correct, it is easy to make hindsight armchair criticisms and it is not appropriate. To simplify my post however, the NOAA websites exact words were "This is a vigorous frontal system for June" If I were making the decision myself, I would wait for a more stable system as we did a week before on our ascent of Liberty Ridge. I waited weeks for the right weather forecast to go for it. I am a pilot as well as a climber and watch the weather everyday. Frontal weather may not be able to be exactly forecasted especially west of the crest but you can sure bet it will be pretty active around fronts and upper level lows, like there were during the period we are talking about. I can't make choices for other climbers and I don't have the right to criticize anyone for their decisions made probably with best information that they had available. It just seems in climbing as in flying that a lot of rescuers/ searchers time, energy, safety and money, (including may own) and by the way I am a search pilot for Civil Air Patrol, is due to flying or climbing in forecasted frontal weather. (Again I realize that forecasts are not perfect, but obvious frontal weather is a good reason to stay home) I am sorry if I have offended anyone, and am certainly impressed with the Southern couple's ability to handle the situation they were in
  3. Another Rainier Rescue

    I am not here to bash anyone. But in response to the original posting of the P-I article, does anyone watch the weather? The high winds and snow on Rainier were forecasted 3-4 days before they hit. A simple look at the National Weather Service website and Rainier Rec forecast would save a lot of rescuer's time and danger factor while trying to rescue people who don't even look at a simple weather forecast. A week earlier with a clear and cold forecast we did Liberty Ridge in two days without a hitch. Climbing in bad weather is just not worth it. Take a longer vacation! JCJ
  4. stoves?

    MSR Pocket Rocket is the way to go. I just used it on a two day ascent of Liberty Ridge last week. We melted about 15 liters of water on a full 8 oz canister. We used it to melt snow at 7500' curtis ridge camp, 10,300 thumb rock and again on the summit. It was the first time I used a canister stove, I have used an XGK for 8 years. The XGK is still king for Alaska cold stuff but I will use the PR for everything else.
  5. Liberty Ridge 6/20-6/21

    Correction 6/19 and 6/20. My watch date was wrong. I guess I should get a calendar
  6. Liberty Ridge 6/20-6/21

    Took advantage of the good weather on Wednesday and Thursday for a 2-day climb of Liberty Ridge. Approached from WRCG. The route is tracked in across the Winthrop to Curtis ridge where we made our one and only bivy. Carbon is in good shape, enter at about 7,500 ft and a straight line is available to directly below the Willis Wall. We got on the ridge at 8800, I think we should have been higher. This involved some sort of downward scree traverse around the ridge proper to the west side. We then climbed ice on the West side of the ridge directly to Thumb Rock. From Curtis Ridge to Thumb rock was about 4.5 hours. We then climbed left out of Thumb Rock straight to the top of the black pyramid which was variable conditions of water ice, styrofoam and some soft snow. Above the pyramid it was a bit of a slog given the late morning sun. The bergshrund at the top involved a steep slope and rightward traverse to a 6ft step and on up to the Liberty Cap. Time from Thumb Rock to Liberty Cap was about 9 hours due to a good bit of ice climbing and some snow slogging. Colder conditions would have shortend the time a bit. Descent via Emmons 7 hours from Liberty Cap to car. Overall a great climb. If you do it in two days be prepared for 7000 ft of climbing on your summit day. Another maybe better way would be to go to Thumb rock day one or better yet take the standard three days and reduce the suffer factor. Either way enjoy
  7. guye peak or tooth

    This website was a great idea. I come on here from time to time to see if there is any useful information and all there is, is crap. Let's keep it about the hills!
  8. Bibler I Tent

    I am selling a Bibler I in great shape on EBAY. Just search under Bibler. Current price is $265.00
  9. Clean Aid Routes

    The Prow is definitely the better route if you want exposure. Yes there is a lot of fixed bashies but plenty of clean aid and some manky bolts to connect the crack systems for an added bonus. The views of half dome the whole time can't be beat. There are good ledges but a portaledge would make it cushy. Have fun!!!
  10. Down vs. Synthetic sleeping bags

    Thanks for the replies. I am assuming that everyone used vapor barrier liners with the down bags. How did that system work for you?
  11. I am heading to Alaska for a Denali climb in May. Does anyone have thoughts or actual experiences on Denali with down or sythetic bags. Also what temp/manufacturer bag was used. Thanks