texplorer

Thanks for the input. For future reference I am with RuMR and Snoboy. I have done many "onsites" where I climbed up, placed gear, downclimbed to the ground, rested, and then fired the route. In my opinion we use gear simply to save our ass in case of a fall. The onsite or redpoint occur when you would be able to solo the route but you have placed gear for the chance that you might fail. So I guess my opinion to my original question is Yes,Yes, pink. Thanks for your input.

No Bill, it was not me but I plan on getting out there this summer with mark to try to free some other old aid lines as well as put up some new ones.

With blood. . . . . . . . . . .of course it gets a little hard when you climb with other AB types.

So do you consider it a redpoint if you climb up, place gear, downclimb to the ground and rest up before going all the way to the top? How about the same situation for an onsite? Also, what about climbing another route and placing pro on it to protect a different climb?

Matt, I think I did that last july. I think its called unfinished symphony and yes it has some runouts on that thing.

I would say it's not going to be crowded but you are going to get scorched.

I have done many big walls in the desert and in yosemite and have yet to nail on anything except yocum ridge. I think nailing is a thing of the past in main freeclimbing areas and even most of the major walls around. Bring pins to the mountains or your A4 lines. Mark, myself, and several others are trying to free alot of those "aid" lines at beacon. Be very careful where you aid. There are not many ways to ruin routes but hammering is one of them.

I decided not to head up either. Seems like a gumbie weekend.

Still want to go!!!!!

cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish.

pro to 3 inches for fat crack, pro to 2.5 for limp dick, and small stuff for eveything else.

The columns is like 5 blocks from the crux. You can actually see them from the crux I think. It's pretty small so you'll be able to size up the cracks quickly. Everything is topropable (hike around to the top). My favs are fat crack 5.7-8 (the obvious wider crack), Limp Dick .10b (farthest to the right before the chainlink fence) and the chimney. It's a great place to take budding climbers, leaders, or just spend some time. If the weather's nice expect a crowd though.

In my arrogant opinion (IMAO) you are not "climbing" if your not leading or soloing. TR is practice. Trad routes are routes that you solely place your own gear on lead. If you don't place it on lead it is trad practice, aka pussie-point. (and no you didn't get the redpoint even on a 5.14 route if the gear was preplaced ) If its that hard and you need to place gear in advance then call it a naturally protected sport lead. But really folks, who cares, just do the climb.

Posting on CC.com is neither

Looks like a good place to grow you secret weed stash.

aaahhhhh mountaineering!

Nice post Foxbro, Sounds like you got on some peaches. I can't wait to get back this weekend.

Is DrTopo the lost cousin oc Dr. Flash Amazing?

Maybe could could place gear if he did a finger or hand jam one the route instead of crimping the hell out of all those little edges. Oh, and Jonah, who are you to say none of us could do that climb placing our own gear. Maybe we are all badasses.

Anyone. . . anyone. . . bueller.. . . .

Texplorer will be there with Texplorita. Vegas has 3 to 1 odds against RuMR showing up.

When you see a fine looking line just remember: WWBD (What Would Beckey Do)

I have a partner but would like a ride to Moab and back for spring break. I can leave thursday, friday, or saturday (18th-20). I will pay my part of gas and a little extra for mileage on your vehicle.

Too Late Ian, . . . . .Luke. . . let the hate flow through you. . . .

I just realized I have been posting. . . .er. . . . wasting time on this site for over 3 years. Here's to CC.com and all my cc.com friends