ryland_moore

As for bug's question, I have lost weight on Aconcagua where you spend more time above 16k than below, but on Orizaba, this is not the case, as you go from 14 k to the summit typically.. An expedition climb you could expect to lose weight (mass). Whether that translates into fat cells, I don't know. I do not have much fat cells (i think) and I still lost ~15lbs. of mass (muscle and fat?) anyways, it came right back on after a few days of eating and celebrating! As for Dru's question: I have heard this is a bogus statistic Can anyone comment? I had it expalined to me by a doctor who is steeped in altitude related illness and this is generally what he told me: There are roughly the same amount of oxygen molecules at 20k as at sea level, but due to profusion pressure, your body can not readily absorb the oxygen, hence the feeling of receiving less Oxygen into the blood stream as you go higher in elevation. He explained that the weight of air above you pushes the Oxygen molecules into the blood stream, absorbed in the lungs. The less pressure (ie. the higher in elevation you are b/c of less weight above you), the harder it is to take in O2 into the lungs. As you go up in elevation there is less pressure (less atmosphere pushing down on the body (similar to diving with atmospheres but air weighs less, so it takes considerable more air mass to notice a difference, whereas in water an atmosphere is every 33 ft.) So, the shape of the Earth also dictates the thickness of the atmosphere. The atmosphere is thickest at the equator and thinner at the poles. So, at 20k at the equator, there is more atmosphere above you than at 20k on Denali hence less profusion pressure on a climber at 20k on Denali than at 20k in the Himalayas or N. Andes, hence the feeling of Denali feeling like a "24k ft mountain in the Himalayas" (ie. the amount of air (hence pressure) on a climber at 20k on Denali is equivelent to the amount of air/pressure on a climber at 24k in the Himalayas or near the equator. The doctor could have been bullshitting me, but he seems credible. He studied altitude for his dissertation and has been a climber for 25 years. Anyone have anything to add. Did my rambling make any sense?

A little to the left. Hey not to drift here, but today is the official holiday again of Steak and Blowjob Day! Kinda like a guy's valentine's day! I think I celebrated this holiday May 9th last year (or so my girlfriend tells me) but nothing wrong with every day being STeak and blowjob day!

Who you talking 'bout here, GregW? Muffy?

Agreed.

Scattered snow showers now,but not 3 days ago when CO got dumped on

I ain't talking about an entire season, I am talking about a single dump, like CO and WY are experiencing as we speak. It ain't happened since I've lived here, hence my 1999 reference to Baker. I know for a fact Baker did not receive 7+ feet of snow in 24 hours last year!

No shit! Wyoming is getting about the same too! If you have ever been to Red Rocks for a show, you will understand how big that is to see that much snow there! Cascades havern't seen snow like that since Baker was shut down in 1999!

Be careful of lightning! Not something you typically have to worry about in the PacNW EXCEPT HERE! Supposedly quite common and not sure why. Maybe some of you meteorlogical buffs can explain it. Reminds me of afternoon thunderstorms rolling in in the Tetons. They don't last long, but damn is there a lot of electricity flying through the air!

What about compared to the MH trango 3.1? No worries about the directions. Had lots of experience guying out tents and using both soft (stuff sacks and anchors) and oversized tent stakes, but always good info to relay! Nothing like repaeting information to drive it home. Thanks for all of your input!

Marko, you say you watched a buddy's new VE-25 get blown apart. Was it guyed out properly? Was their snow wall sufficient? I am asking because everyone I have talked to says that this tent is bomber but heavy. We are debating b/w the VE-25 and Trango 3.1. I own a Trango Assault but can just see myself going stir crazy in a small tent for a few weeks. I have done it on Aconcagua in that tent, and it was all we could do to get out of the tent every chance we got. It really sucked being in that small of a space during storm days. So, anyone used both of these and have a rec.? My one fault with MH tents is the clips for the tent poles. They can be a pain in the ass sometimes and getting them attached to the the fly is also a pain. I have never used TNF tent, but having sleeves for the tent poles seems like it would be easier. Suggestions?

JoshK, check out weather for Redmond and Terrebonne here . If you still want more specific info. I would call Redpoint climbers supply in Terrebonne during normal business hours. It usually doesn't rain out in the desert, but if a large enough systrem comes through, then the "rain shadow effect" ceases to apply. Best of luck! You can always try and find the caves -at least those that are still open -near Bend. Redpoint may be able to give you directions, or folks who live in the area on this site may know more. Best of luck!

It looks like we are focusing on a 3-man expedition tent for Denali. Wondering if anyone out there has had experience with TNF Expedition 25, VE-25, or ambition 35. I know that the Expedition is the only one out of that bunch that has 2 doors, which can be beneficial, but what other benefits or cons do these tents have? The reason I ahve selected these as I have found them on sale on the internet. Thanks in advance!

The last few years, the ingraham is the best route until early to mid June (approx.). However, I have never done it this time of year, but would imagine that the glacier is probably in good condition and the route is straight forward. Talk to folks who have been up there this season, PM Mike at MRNP and see what he has to say, and cross your fingers for a good weather window! Good luck!

It looked good from afar, but don't know if it was far from good. The guy that dropped us off said that there were a few climbs up the main face of one of those peaks, but because they were so remote, not too many people had climbed them. Most go to the Ruth anyways. May be worth exploring!

Frogs suck! Here's what other notable people say about the Frenchies: "France has neither winter nor summer nor morals. Apart from these drawbacks it is a fine country. France has usually been governed by prostitutes." --- Mark Twain "I just love the French. They taste like chicken!" --- Hannibal Lecter While speaking to the Hoover Institution today, Secretary Donald Rumsfeld was asked this question: "Could you tell us why to date at least the administration doesn't favor direct talks with the North Korean government? After all, we're talking with the French." The Secretary smiled and replied: "I'm not going there!" "I would rather have a German division in front of me than a French one behind me." --- General George S. Patton "Going to war without France is like going deer hunting without your accordion." --- Norman Schwartzkopf "We can stand here like the French, or we can do something about it." --- Marge Simpson "As far as I'm concerned, war always means failure" --- Jacques Chirac, President of France "As far as France is concerned, you're right." --- Rush Limbaugh, "The only time France wants us to go to war is when the German Army is sitting in Paris sipping coffee." --- Regis Philbin There was a Frenchman, an Englishman and Claudia Schiffer sitting together in a carriage in a train going through Provence. Suddenly the train went through a tunnel and as it was an old style train, there were no lights in the carriages and it went completely dark. Then there was a kissing noise and the sound of a really loud slap. When the train came out of the tunnel, Claudia Schiffer and the Englishman were sitting as if nothing had happened and the Frenchman had his hand against his face as if he had been slapped there. The Frenchman was thinking: 'The English fella must have kissed Claudia Schiffer and she missed him and slapped me instead.' Claudia Schiffer was thinking: 'The French fella must have tried to kiss me and actually kissed the Englishman and got slapped for it.' And the Englishman was thinking: 'This is great. The next time the train goes through a tunnel I'll make another kissing noise and slap that French bastard again.' "The French are a smallish, monkey-looking bunch and not dressed any better, on average, than the citizens of Baltimore. True, you can sit outside in Paris and drink little cups of coffee, but why this is more stylish than sitting inside and drinking large glasses of whiskey I don't know." --- P.J O'Rourke (1989) Next time there's a war in Europe, the loser has to keep France. An old saying: Raise your right hand if you like the French.... Raise both hands if you are French. "You know, the French remind me a little bit of an aging actress of the 1940s who was still trying to dine out on her looks but doesn't have the face for it." --- John McCain, U.S. Senator from Arizona "You know why the French don't want to bomb Saddam Hussein? Because he hates America, he loves mistresses and wears a beret. He is French, people." --- Conan O'Brien "I don't know why people are surprised that France won't help us get Saddam out of Iraq. After all, France wouldn't help us get the Germans out of France!" --- Jay Leno "The last time the French asked for 'more proof' it came marching into Paris under a German flag." --- David Letterman REPLACEMENTS FOR THE FRENCH NATIONAL ANTHEM: "Runaway" by Del Shannon "Walk Right In" by the Rooftop Singers "Everybody's Somebody's Fool" by Connie Francis "Running Scared" by Roy Orbison "I Really Don't Want to Know" by Tommy Edwards "Surrender" by Elvis Presley "Save It For Me" by The Four Seasons "Live and Let Die" by Wings "I'm Leaving It All Up To You" by Donny and Marie Osmond "What a Fool Believes" by the Doobie Brothers "Don't Worry, Be Happy" by Bobby McFerrin "Raise Your Hands" by Jon Bon Jovi How many Frenchmen does it take to change a light bulb? One, he holds the bulb and all of Europe revolves around him.

Anyone ever used these two tents? How do they stand up to wind and artic conditions? Seen anyone use these tents on Denali or have first hand knowledge of these tents? Pros? Cons? Would you bet your life on these tents? Want to hear both sides! (Tried a search for this thread in the past, but for some reason, the option ain't working)

I would like a response to this as well, as I am one of Pete's teammates, but my question to be coupled with this is, is it better to have two pairs (one AT and one Koflachs), so that you can switch into a nice, dry pair for the upper mountain? Anyone done the west butt in their AT boots?

Good luck! Pretty flat in that neck of the woods. If you had more time, I would recommend heading up into NC or down to N. Georgia, or even Tennessee, but your best bet is to call up the University of South Carolina's outdoor program or a local climbing gym. I have never heard of much being over there though, or anywhere in the state for that matter.

Any chance they could be near Whittier or Colross Pass area? I remember some granite that looked similar to that sea kayaking in PWS a few years back. We camped near the Neliwan (sp?) glacier and had a view that was similar but not sure if it is the same or not.

Paul, you actually go to college? Where do you find the time to post?

M32, when you are at 8k feet in a north facing canyon ice can always form! Check out right side first, then play on Chouinard Falls, then head to the main flows for some real challenge. We were climbing down there almost into April. Have a blast and mix it up. You are there when you can boulder at Happys and Sads, clip bolts in the ORG, get on some melted out alpine routes, jump on some ice, and soak at the hot springs (check out the Crab Cooker) all in a week's time. Really great way to mix up the week!

I agree with everyone here. Only you will know if you are ready to lead. Although, if you understood all of the mechanics of leading and how to do it, I suspect you wopuld have already done it by now. Not to sound scolding, but leading is serious. But, the bottom line is you don't learn until you actually step up and do it. I agree with others that going in a gym and learning is good. I teach a climbing course weekely to 6-12 year olds, and it is a case by case basis as to when they are ready to lead in the gym. They must be able to TR a 5.8 without falling or hangdogging, and they have to be able to make there clips. This is excellent practice, and they must be able to clip in 4 different scenarios (the biner facing in two different directions, clipping with right and left hands. They must do this 50 times in a row without backclipping. Once they have this down, I then put them on the easiest lead route in the gym and set up a TR. They are attached to the TR, and carry a lead rope up and "mock-Lead". This may help build your confidence if you do this first. Bottom line, like everyone says, make sure those who are teaching you are compitent and know what they are doing. Oh yeah, and you will want to learn out to fall, and how ti set up a TR when you get to the top. Most importantly, and not to get washed down in the details, Have Fun!!!!!!!!

What's this? DFA standing up for Trask? No worries Miss Fox, there are plenty of gentlemen on this Board as well.

So, not to drift the thread too far, what has worked for keeping feet warm up on Denali? I mean besides having a pair of plastics with high altitude liners and overboots. VBL socks? Multiple layers of smartwools w/ VBL, w/liners, w/ plastics, w/ gaitors, w/ overboots? What set-ups work for you all?

Hey Moderators, has this been happening a lot? Someone signs on just to post pics of themselves unrelated to climbing? Those girls aren't even 14! Hey Trask, they are old enough to pee, so I guess it's hunting season for you! Grass on the infield? Play ball!